Chain tension, can someone please explain this to me?
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 81
Likes: 0
Chain tension, can someone please explain this to me?
So I got my first fixed recently.
I can seem to get enough tension without a chain tensioner. Now I got one and Im afraid to over do it an rist breaking a chain mid ride (which I'm guessing would suck since I ride breakless.)
I searched around this forum and other places and cant seem to find a good concise explination of how much tension is just right and how to gauge tension properly. Anyone have a good explination or easy way to know when your chain is on correctly?
I can seem to get enough tension without a chain tensioner. Now I got one and Im afraid to over do it an rist breaking a chain mid ride (which I'm guessing would suck since I ride breakless.)
I searched around this forum and other places and cant seem to find a good concise explination of how much tension is just right and how to gauge tension properly. Anyone have a good explination or easy way to know when your chain is on correctly?
#2
To quote Sheldon Brown:
"It should be tight as it can be without binding. If the chain is too loose, it can fall off, usually at the most inconvenient possible time."
https://sheldonbrown.com/singlespeed.html#tension
"It should be tight as it can be without binding. If the chain is too loose, it can fall off, usually at the most inconvenient possible time."
https://sheldonbrown.com/singlespeed.html#tension
#3
trick i learned from an lbs:
loosen the rear, pull it back all the way and tighten the nut just enough so that it holds its place, lightly "pinch" the top and bottom chain together between your index finger and thumb. this should scoot the rear wheel forward just barely to give more slack to the chain from the original tight position.
or just stick your hand between the rear wheel and seat tube and push it back and adjust the tension manually. ive done it this way but its always hit or miss and i have to do it a couple times to get the tension just right.
when its at the correct tension, the chain should have some up/down play of 1 cm. from far away your chain should look like it has a very very very slight droop in it.
loosen the rear, pull it back all the way and tighten the nut just enough so that it holds its place, lightly "pinch" the top and bottom chain together between your index finger and thumb. this should scoot the rear wheel forward just barely to give more slack to the chain from the original tight position.
or just stick your hand between the rear wheel and seat tube and push it back and adjust the tension manually. ive done it this way but its always hit or miss and i have to do it a couple times to get the tension just right.
when its at the correct tension, the chain should have some up/down play of 1 cm. from far away your chain should look like it has a very very very slight droop in it.
#4
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 81
Likes: 0
I did read that on Sheldon Brown but Im still afraid I might be tightening too much even though the chain is not binding or slowing things down.
Thanks feetpower.
Thanks feetpower.
Last edited by RooNYC; 10-20-09 at 08:03 PM.
#5
likes black bikes
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 135
Likes: 0
From: Baltimore
Bikes: 2008 DK General Lee, Kilo TT
So I got my first fixed recently.
I can seem to get enough tension without a chain tensioner. Now I got one and Im afraid to over do it an rist breaking a chain mid ride (which I'm guessing would suck since I ride breakless.)
I searched around this forum and other places and cant seem to find a good concise explination of how much tension is just right and how to gauge tension properly. Anyone have a good explination or easy way to know when your chain is on correctly?
I can seem to get enough tension without a chain tensioner. Now I got one and Im afraid to over do it an rist breaking a chain mid ride (which I'm guessing would suck since I ride breakless.)
I searched around this forum and other places and cant seem to find a good concise explination of how much tension is just right and how to gauge tension properly. Anyone have a good explination or easy way to know when your chain is on correctly?
#6
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 81
Likes: 0
.
Last edited by RooNYC; 10-20-09 at 08:19 PM.
#7
Veteran Racer


Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 11,866
Likes: 923
From: Ciudad de Vacas, Tejas
Bikes: 34 frames + 82 wheels
You have to adjust the chain at its tightest point. First set the wheel straight in the frame and pull it back until the chain starts to resist and lightly tighten the nuts. Rotate the crank about a 1/4 turn at a time and push up on the buttom run of the chain and feel/see how much it moves up. Repeat until you find the tightest point at which it deflects the least. Re-adjust the wheel at that point so the chain deflection at the bottom is between 1/4" and 1/2". Re-check to make sure it does not still have a very tight spot. The variation of chain tension at different points will depend on the quality (roundness) of your chainring and cog. BTW, this is how we do it at the track where we are constantly removing and installing the rear wheel to change gearing.
#8
FNG
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 877
Likes: 0
From: Quarry Stone
Bikes: Raleigh Special * Nishiki MTN Winter Commuter * Trek Soho 3 * Specialized Langster Seattle
#9
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 81
Likes: 0
I should have clarified that I rode my old roommate's fixed gear alot back in the early 90 and felt comfortable. I also had a moutnian bike with a flip flop hub back in 2001 and would frequently set it up fixed. I can stop very easily and comfortably (I live in the Washington Heights section of NYC with big hills and they are not problem stopping on.)
just because someone is buying their first car, doesnt mean they cant drive people.
just because someone is buying their first car, doesnt mean they cant drive people.
#10
FNG
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 877
Likes: 0
From: Quarry Stone
Bikes: Raleigh Special * Nishiki MTN Winter Commuter * Trek Soho 3 * Specialized Langster Seattle
#13
cab horn

Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 28,353
Likes: 31
From: Toronto
Bikes: 1987 Bianchi Campione
I should have clarified that I rode my old roommate's fixed gear alot back in the early 90 and felt comfortable. I also had a moutnian bike with a flip flop hub back in 2001 and would frequently set it up fixed. I can stop very easily and comfortably (I live in the Washington Heights section of NYC with big hills and they are not problem stopping on.)
just because someone is buying their first car, doesnt mean they cant drive people.
just because someone is buying their first car, doesnt mean they cant drive people.
#18
Oh, you know...
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 2,834
Likes: 0
From: DC
Bikes: '74 Schwinn Sports Tourer (Polo), S-Works E5 Team Festina (Chorus 11), Trek 2200 Bonded Carbon (Fixed), Trek 920 (7 speed IGH), Chesini Olimpiade SL (1x7)
Just pull it back with your hand until the chain stops you from going back any further, then tighten the drive-side bolt down. Make sure the wheel is straight on the frame while you tighten the non-drive side.
Don't lean in it or pull really hard or anything. The chain does not have to be that tight if you've got your chainline set up within a few mm. Dropping chains with a good chainline is hard to do.
Don't lean in it or pull really hard or anything. The chain does not have to be that tight if you've got your chainline set up within a few mm. Dropping chains with a good chainline is hard to do.
#19
This is a fairly easy way. Just beware, this method also makes it easy to make the chain way too tight.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kW3pTjm5ZMY
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kW3pTjm5ZMY
#22
#23
Veteran Racer


Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 11,866
Likes: 923
From: Ciudad de Vacas, Tejas
Bikes: 34 frames + 82 wheels
Oh, I'm sure you can. I was just amazed at how that tatted bike monkey could get that chain so tight that you could play it like a guitar and then say that it was the correct tension.
#25
Wrench - Racer - Fanatic
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 47
Likes: 0
From: Baltimore, Maryland, USA
Bikes: 2007 Novara BigBuzz, 2001 Trek Y-1, 2007 Gary Fisher HiFi, 2006 Cannondale CAAD8, 1986 Peugeot Fixie Tourmalet PH10-LE, Kuwahara Road Tandem, Marinoni Corsa, Trek 810 Steel, 1998 Cannondale m300, Cannondale m600
Easy buddy, Im 35 and have been riding bikes since I was a kid. I've always wanted to learn to ride a fixed gear bike and did so over the course of a few years with friends fixed gear bikes a flip flop hub and breaks on one of mine. I just removed the front break last week after "using it" for 3 month (by using I mean having it mounted to my fork since I never actually needed it to stop.)
.
.



