Can't get derailleur away from big gear
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 5
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Can't get derailleur away from big gear
I'm borrowing my friend's Kestrel Evoke on a long term basis. I'm not as strong as him, and the 39t/23t gearing wasn't enough for me to go up hills, so I changed the cassette to a 12-27. It wouldn't shift to the big gear, so I lengthened the chain by two links. I now have two problems
1) When on the biggest gear, the derailleur gear and the cassette gear interfere.
2) When on the small chain ring, the small gears have a slack chain.
I read that the "B" screw on the derailleur is supposed to move the derailleur farther from the casette, but on the bigger gears, it doesn't seem to do anything. On the smaller gears, it changes the angle of the derailleur, and on the small/small gearing, can make the chain rub against the chain [the cage tilts up instead of down], or provide some clearance.
It seems like both problems could be solved if I can convince the top gear of the derailleur to move back/down. Then it moves away from the big gear, and also picks up the slack on the small gears. Unfortunately, I can't find an adjustment for this.
Is there one, or do I need to buy a new derailleur? If so, how do I know the new one supports the 27t gear?
Components are Shimano Ultegra.
thanks for your help,
Derek
1) When on the biggest gear, the derailleur gear and the cassette gear interfere.
2) When on the small chain ring, the small gears have a slack chain.
I read that the "B" screw on the derailleur is supposed to move the derailleur farther from the casette, but on the bigger gears, it doesn't seem to do anything. On the smaller gears, it changes the angle of the derailleur, and on the small/small gearing, can make the chain rub against the chain [the cage tilts up instead of down], or provide some clearance.
It seems like both problems could be solved if I can convince the top gear of the derailleur to move back/down. Then it moves away from the big gear, and also picks up the slack on the small gears. Unfortunately, I can't find an adjustment for this.
Is there one, or do I need to buy a new derailleur? If so, how do I know the new one supports the 27t gear?
Components are Shimano Ultegra.
thanks for your help,
Derek
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 9,438
Bikes: Trek 5500, Colnago C-50
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 7 Times
in
6 Posts
1) Try re-wording this problem. I'm not uderstanding what you are saying. Maybe it's just me.
2) Sounds like the chain is too long.
You'll get the right help here if you can help us understand the problems.
Al
2) Sounds like the chain is too long.
You'll get the right help here if you can help us understand the problems.
Al
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: SF Bay Area, East bay
Posts: 7,659
Bikes: Miyata 618 GT, Marinoni, Kestral 200 2002 Trek 5200, KHS Flite, Koga Miyata, Schwinn Spitfire 5, Mondia Special, Univega Alpina, Miyata team Ti, Santa Cruz Highball
Mentioned: 53 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1609 Post(s)
Liked 2,590 Times
in
1,224 Posts
My only thought is the chain still isn't long enough.
That combo shouldn't be a problem.
That combo shouldn't be a problem.
#6
cab horn
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Toronto
Posts: 28,353
Bikes: 1987 Bianchi Campione
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 42 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 26 Times
in
19 Posts
Let's stop guessing and start doing things thoroughly and comprehensively.
First stop guessing the chain length. There's a several ways of determining proper chain length choose one from the links below. Then do the FULL rear derailleur adjustment then front derailleur.
https://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=26
https://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=64
https://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=75
This assumes that
a) Your chain/cogs aren't significantly worn out
b) derailleurs are not bent/significantly worn out
c) hangers are not bent
First stop guessing the chain length. There's a several ways of determining proper chain length choose one from the links below. Then do the FULL rear derailleur adjustment then front derailleur.
https://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=26
https://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=64
https://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=75
This assumes that
a) Your chain/cogs aren't significantly worn out
b) derailleurs are not bent/significantly worn out
c) hangers are not bent
#8
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 5
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I went from a 23T to a 27T and added two full links, which is probably one full link too many. but that's not the real problem.
The real problem is the top derailleur pulley touching the 27T gear. The "B" screw doesn't move the pulley away even when I tighten it all the way down (or loosen it all the way). Is there something I can change in the way that the derailleur is mounted to get that top pulley farther away from the casette?
The real problem is the top derailleur pulley touching the 27T gear. The "B" screw doesn't move the pulley away even when I tighten it all the way down (or loosen it all the way). Is there something I can change in the way that the derailleur is mounted to get that top pulley farther away from the casette?
#9
Senior Member
I went from a 23T to a 27T and added two full links, which is probably one full link too many. but that's not the real problem.
The real problem is the top derailleur pulley touching the 27T gear. The "B" screw doesn't move the pulley away even when I tighten it all the way down (or loosen it all the way). Is there something I can change in the way that the derailleur is mounted to get that top pulley farther away from the casette?
The real problem is the top derailleur pulley touching the 27T gear. The "B" screw doesn't move the pulley away even when I tighten it all the way down (or loosen it all the way). Is there something I can change in the way that the derailleur is mounted to get that top pulley farther away from the casette?
#10
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 5
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
If I remember correctly, the dropouts are somewhat vertical, but it seems that moving the axle back would move the gear closer to the pulley, no? I have the same problem on both chain rings. On the small chain ring, there's very little tension. With my two extra links, it actually falls slack on the smallest few gears, and again, if the pulley were farther back, it would help with that.
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 9,438
Bikes: Trek 5500, Colnago C-50
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 7 Times
in
6 Posts
The real problem is the top derailleur pulley touching the 27T gear. The "B" screw doesn't move the pulley away even when I tighten it all the way down (or loosen it all the way). Is there something I can change in the way that the derailleur is mounted to get that top pulley farther away from the casette?
Be sure that the axle is fully seated in the dropouts. Set the bike on the ground, open and close the quick release to make sure it's fully seated.
Last edited by Al1943; 10-23-09 at 03:31 PM.
#12
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 5
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I wonder if the derailleur was somehow mounted incorrectly by my friend, then. The "B" screw really doesn't seem to work the way I think it's supposed to. On the small/small setting, I can get the chain to rub against the derailleur, which seems odd. Lastly, is it normal to need to push the derailleur out of the way to get the axle into the dropout? That's the way it is on this bike.
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 9,438
Bikes: Trek 5500, Colnago C-50
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 7 Times
in
6 Posts
Can you post a picture or two?
Al
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: SF Bay Area, East bay
Posts: 7,659
Bikes: Miyata 618 GT, Marinoni, Kestral 200 2002 Trek 5200, KHS Flite, Koga Miyata, Schwinn Spitfire 5, Mondia Special, Univega Alpina, Miyata team Ti, Santa Cruz Highball
Mentioned: 53 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1609 Post(s)
Liked 2,590 Times
in
1,224 Posts
Last edited by curbtender; 10-23-09 at 04:38 PM.
#15
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 5
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I took out the two links that I added, and things work a lot better. The extra tension rotates the derailleur cage, and rotating it actually helps to pull the pulley away from the gear. With the B screw all the way in, the pulley and large cassette gear no longer generally interfere when the chain is moving. and of course, things are much happier on the small/small configuration. The chain isn't really long enough for the big/big setting, but there's really no reason why I'd ever need that one, anyway, so I think I'm done.
Thanks for your help,
Derek
Thanks for your help,
Derek
#16
Senior Member
Yes, never use big-big. Heck with the gearing you have, you shouldn't ever use the two biggest sprockets with the big-ring or the two smallest ones with the small chainring. Those gears have duplicate gear-ratios available on the other ring.