Possible 1972 Centurion?
07-25-10 | 03:23 PM
#1
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Learning to Roll
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Bikes: 72 Centurion rolled molly steel road bike
Possible 1972 Centurion?
I believe I have a 1972 Centurion, The serial number is N-followed by 4 numbers the first is a 2.
I am planning to restore this bike and replace the current 1970's Suntour components with Suntour Superbre components. I am also going to powder coat the frame the orignal orange. This will mean I lose all the original sticker decals... Should I do this?
As of right now the frame has spots of rust and black spray paint on it.
CENTURION 008..jpgCENTURION 007..jpgCENTURION 001..JPGCENTURION 004..jpg
I am planning to restore this bike and replace the current 1970's Suntour components with Suntour Superbre components. I am also going to powder coat the frame the orignal orange. This will mean I lose all the original sticker decals... Should I do this?
As of right now the frame has spots of rust and black spray paint on it.
CENTURION 008..jpgCENTURION 007..jpgCENTURION 001..JPGCENTURION 004..jpg
07-25-10 | 08:29 PM
#3
Senior Member
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From: Wilmette, IL
Do what you want, but whats wrong with the current set of components? They seem appropriate for the bike, and most likely original to the bike. Paint would be good, but I think you will loose all the nice chrome if you powdercoat. Maybe a auto body shop could give it a spray, after you mask off all the chrome bits.
07-25-10 | 08:42 PM
#4
Phyllo-buster
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From: Nova Scotia
Bikes: roadsters, club bikes, fixed and classic
Paint...save the chrome...duplicate the decals. A few upgrades wouldn't hurt the bike (brake levers/seat post) but all Superbe may be overkill. Or not, it's your bike.
07-25-10 | 08:54 PM
#5
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From: Scranton, PA, USA
Bikes: '77 Centurion "Pro Tour"; '67 Carlton "The Flyer"; 1984 Ross MTB (stored at parents' house)
The seatpost on that is probably a very nice Japanese copy of the two-bolt Campagnolo posts. I'd keep it, if it is.
07-25-10 | 09:25 PM
#7
The early Centurions almost changed spec every shipment, the OP's bike is below the later image in the price point level, but still not bad, a decent bike, but I would not lavish $ on it, just some labor, unless you ride it and it is just tops for you, clearances will be for 27" wheels. I would only color sand the black rattlecan off of it too.
07-25-10 | 09:38 PM
#8
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From: The Sunny South
forks 004..jpgforks 001..jpgIf you get really lucky you can find an automotive touch-up paint that will match. I was able to find a good match for a Nishiki and the results were outstanding; saved an entire repaint and loss of the original decals.....
07-26-10 | 07:45 AM
#9
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Learning to Roll
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Bikes: 72 Centurion rolled molly steel road bike
great idea
Attachment 161520Attachment 161521
If you get really lucky you can find an automotive touch-up paint that will match. I was able to find a good match for a Nishiki and the results were outstanding; saved an entire repaint and loss of the original decals.....
If you get really lucky you can find an automotive touch-up paint that will match. I was able to find a good match for a Nishiki and the results were outstanding; saved an entire repaint and loss of the original decals.....
It is possible to sand off the spraypaint and keep the paint under it? I guess I don't know what color sanding is...
07-26-10 | 07:47 AM
#10
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Learning to Roll
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Bikes: 72 Centurion rolled molly steel road bike
The early Centurions almost changed spec every shipment, the OP's bike is below the later image in the price point level, but still not bad, a decent bike, but I would not lavish $ on it, just some labor, unless you ride it and it is just tops for you, clearances will be for 27" wheels. I would only color sand the black rattlecan off of it too.
Last edited by hamanu23; 07-26-10 at 08:11 AM.
07-26-10 | 08:04 AM
#11
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Learning to Roll
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Bikes: 72 Centurion rolled molly steel road bike
07-26-10 | 08:19 AM
#12
Thrifty Bill
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From: Mans of NC & SW UT Desert
Bikes: 86 Katakura Silk, 87 Prologue X2, 88 Cimarron LE, 1975 Sekai 4000 Professional, 73 Paramount, plus more
That looks like a really basic, straight tube seat post.
A quality paint job will cost more than the bike is worth. As a keeper, that is OK, as you will get your money out of it riding the bike. Myself, I have a 1976 Centurion Elite in my stash right now, waiting for the cost of powder coating to drop (the bike has terrible paint, most of the graphics are long gone). I bought it as a donor, so I got my value out of it already. I like the details on the 1970s Centurions, but can't justify the cost of a powder coat.
A quality paint job will cost more than the bike is worth. As a keeper, that is OK, as you will get your money out of it riding the bike. Myself, I have a 1976 Centurion Elite in my stash right now, waiting for the cost of powder coating to drop (the bike has terrible paint, most of the graphics are long gone). I bought it as a donor, so I got my value out of it already. I like the details on the 1970s Centurions, but can't justify the cost of a powder coat.
07-26-10 | 08:24 AM
#13
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Learning to Roll
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Bikes: 72 Centurion rolled molly steel road bike
That looks like a really basic, straight tube seat post.
A quality paint job will cost more than the bike is worth. As a keeper, that is OK, as you will get your money out of it riding the bike. Myself, I have a 1976 Centurion Elite in my stash right now, waiting for the cost of powder coating to drop (the bike has terrible paint, most of the graphics are long gone). I bought it as a donor, so I got my value out of it already. I like the details on the 1970s Centurions, but can't justify the cost of a powder coat.
A quality paint job will cost more than the bike is worth. As a keeper, that is OK, as you will get your money out of it riding the bike. Myself, I have a 1976 Centurion Elite in my stash right now, waiting for the cost of powder coating to drop (the bike has terrible paint, most of the graphics are long gone). I bought it as a donor, so I got my value out of it already. I like the details on the 1970s Centurions, but can't justify the cost of a powder coat.
After reading about the Centurion I thought a 72 would be sweet but it is ruff... I should have done more research before I bought it I guess live and learn..
07-26-10 | 08:38 AM
#14
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From: The Sunny South
.....clean/refurbish/stabilize the decals carefully...spray with top coat or whatever clearcoat matches your final coats of frame paint..let them cure as long as possible (weeks are not too long)...somewhere hot and dry.........then mask the decals off BEFORE you start your frame prep. Mask them as lightly and as closely as possible.....mask them for as short amount of time as possible. Do as much of the frame touch up as can at one time; then let that cure as long as possible too. I would "unmask" the decals during the frame cure....even if I had to remask them to do additional touch up (you always miss something).....time and patience are your friends.....
Duplicolor paint and topcoat.....$20 bucks..........elbow grease; patience and time.....$23,000........
...
Duplicolor paint and topcoat.....$20 bucks..........elbow grease; patience and time.....$23,000........
...
Last edited by Thumpic; 07-26-10 at 08:47 AM.
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