Stripped Crank Thread
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Stripped Crank Thread
Hey guys. I just stripped the left crank thread on my Mercier Kilo TT. It's a Truvativ Touro crankset and I'm looking to buy just a left crank arm rather than replacing the whole crankset.
What should I know about compatibility with the bottom bracket etc?
Is there a reason (other than long term durability) not to go with a cheap arm from the interenet (i.e. https://directbicycleparts.com/produc...r2125-qc53.htm)
Thanks!
What should I know about compatibility with the bottom bracket etc?
Is there a reason (other than long term durability) not to go with a cheap arm from the interenet (i.e. https://directbicycleparts.com/produc...r2125-qc53.htm)
Thanks!
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Dave
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is the length correct? the crank in the link is only 165mm. what size is the crank on your bike?
if you shop does it go for the helicoil, then cut down on the one pedal mounts and dismounts
if you shop does it go for the helicoil, then cut down on the one pedal mounts and dismounts
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“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
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The stripped thread is on the crank arm, where the pedal screws in. I really don't think buying a kit makes more sense than just replacing the crank arm.
The one currently on my bike is a 165 mm. That's why I linked to it.
Essentially my question is am I going to have any compatibility issues if I go ahead and buy that crank arm?
The one currently on my bike is a 165 mm. That's why I linked to it.
Essentially my question is am I going to have any compatibility issues if I go ahead and buy that crank arm?
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No, it should work, assuming the original mounts on a JIS square taper BB, which I think it does. The only potential issue would be a possible change in width...ie, the new arm may locate the pedal farther away from, or closer to the center of the bottom bracket, etc. Although, if so, I would guess that its not significant.
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The stress of one foot mounts/dismounts is no higher than that of standing when climbing a steep hill. This is well with the range of acceptable load, and less than when 250# riders stand and pedal, and has no effect on pedal thread issues.
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Synchronize, thanks for posting this. I had same question and was glad to find the heli-coil repair option
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Many Bike shops have the tools , a double threaded sleeve, of steel
will be stronger than the original aluminum
which was not strong enough for someone who rode too long on a loose pedal.
will be stronger than the original aluminum
which was not strong enough for someone who rode too long on a loose pedal.
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I got a pile of left crank arms, all square taper. Much easier and cheaper then going the helicoil route. Next time, remember the pedal threads are backwards on the left side.