saddle position
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: spfd mo
Posts: 486
Bikes: big block
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
saddle position
how do i correctly adjust the back and forth placement of my saddle? is there any certain way or should i just do it how it feels comfy to me?
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 398
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Right answer: You should be fitted for your bike.
99% of the world answer: Whatever feels right to you. But If your frame is too big or small then saddle adjustment will do little to correct the real problem.
99% of the world answer: Whatever feels right to you. But If your frame is too big or small then saddle adjustment will do little to correct the real problem.
#4
MARGINALS
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 420
Bikes: 09 Tarmac Pro SL / Sunday BMX /
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
First try to see what feels comfortable. Too far back and you'll feel like you are on a rowing machine at the gym. Too far forward and you will just not feel comfortable with a lot of weight on your hands. A proper position will make you feel centered on the bike in a balanced position. Try to make these adjustments with a level saddle if you haven't already settled on a comfortable angle.
If all this fails try to ask a friend with some cycling experience. If that fails then get fitted.
If all this fails try to ask a friend with some cycling experience. If that fails then get fitted.
#9
King of the Hipsters
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Bend, Oregon
Posts: 2,128
Bikes: Realm Cycles Custom
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
2 Posts
First, you should adjust the height of your saddle.
Lower your saddle so that when you drop your heel at the bottom pedal position, you still have a slight bend in your knee.
When it feels to you like you have your heel full down, an observer will describe your foot as level.
Secondly, adjust your saddle fore or aft so that a plumb line dropped from the head of your tibia (shin bone) passes through the spindle of your pedal when you have your crank arms level.
A friend can help you with this if you position the cranks with your feet on the pedals and hold onto something to keep from moving.
You don't need a plumb line, really: eye-balling it will do.
Just make sure to drop the imaginary plumb line from the tibia, about an inch back from the leading edge of the knee.
Thirdly, level your saddle.
Put a straight edge from the butt of your saddle to the nose of your saddle, and make the straight edge perfectly level.
Your saddle, if perfectly level, will appear slightly nose up.
Now, go back and do all three, again: height, fore and aft, and level.
For comfort on the street, you will need to find the right stem and the right handlebar height.
Generally, the flat of your handle bar should appear slightly lower than the nose of your saddle, maybe as much as an inch.
As for stem length, go to your bike shop and ask to borrow different length stems out of their used parts box, and ride with them right then and there.
You can try three or four stems in less than an hour, and you will find the right one easily.
Put your hands where you normally really ride, and ignore the drops (if you have drops).
When you find the right length stem, buy a new stem in that length from your bike store as a thank you.
Lower your saddle so that when you drop your heel at the bottom pedal position, you still have a slight bend in your knee.
When it feels to you like you have your heel full down, an observer will describe your foot as level.
Secondly, adjust your saddle fore or aft so that a plumb line dropped from the head of your tibia (shin bone) passes through the spindle of your pedal when you have your crank arms level.
A friend can help you with this if you position the cranks with your feet on the pedals and hold onto something to keep from moving.
You don't need a plumb line, really: eye-balling it will do.
Just make sure to drop the imaginary plumb line from the tibia, about an inch back from the leading edge of the knee.
Thirdly, level your saddle.
Put a straight edge from the butt of your saddle to the nose of your saddle, and make the straight edge perfectly level.
Your saddle, if perfectly level, will appear slightly nose up.
Now, go back and do all three, again: height, fore and aft, and level.
For comfort on the street, you will need to find the right stem and the right handlebar height.
Generally, the flat of your handle bar should appear slightly lower than the nose of your saddle, maybe as much as an inch.
As for stem length, go to your bike shop and ask to borrow different length stems out of their used parts box, and ride with them right then and there.
You can try three or four stems in less than an hour, and you will find the right one easily.
Put your hands where you normally really ride, and ignore the drops (if you have drops).
When you find the right length stem, buy a new stem in that length from your bike store as a thank you.
#10
Grumpy Old Bugga
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Adelaide, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 4,229
Bikes: Hillbrick, Malvern Star Oppy S2, Europa (R.I.P.)
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 370 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 8 Times
in
6 Posts
The tricky part about saddle tilt is the Brooks saddle. Horizontal immediately puts pressure on my hands and on my crutch as I slide forward into the hammock between the rear frame and the nose frame of the saddle. Nose up means comfortable ... which doesn't contradict what Key says because when you step back and have a good look at the Brooks, you'll find that with that nose up attitude, the rear of the saddle is horizontal and that's where you should be sitting. Most Brooks users (on all types of bike), find they need a SLIGHTLY nose up position due to the construction of the saddle.
On my Europa, the nose is too high because the seat post I have only has a coarse adjustment for tilt - the saddle is actually one position up from dead flat. Getting an infinitely adjustable seatpost is worth the money ... if you can find one in the right diameter.
Richard
On my Europa, the nose is too high because the seat post I have only has a coarse adjustment for tilt - the saddle is actually one position up from dead flat. Getting an infinitely adjustable seatpost is worth the money ... if you can find one in the right diameter.
Richard
#11
King of the Hipsters
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Bend, Oregon
Posts: 2,128
Bikes: Realm Cycles Custom
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
2 Posts
The tricky part about saddle tilt is the Brooks saddle. Horizontal immediately puts pressure on my hands and on my crutch as I slide forward into the hammock between the rear frame and the nose frame of the saddle. Nose up means comfortable ... which doesn't contradict what Key says because when you step back and have a good look at the Brooks, you'll find that with that nose up attitude, the rear of the saddle is horizontal and that's where you should be sitting. Most Brooks users (on all types of bike), find they need a SLIGHTLY nose up position due to the construction of the saddle.
On my Europa, the nose is too high because the seat post I have only has a coarse adjustment for tilt - the saddle is actually one position up from dead flat. Getting an infinitely adjustable seatpost is worth the money ... if you can find one in the right diameter.
Richard
On my Europa, the nose is too high because the seat post I have only has a coarse adjustment for tilt - the saddle is actually one position up from dead flat. Getting an infinitely adjustable seatpost is worth the money ... if you can find one in the right diameter.
Richard
Or, get a shorter stem, and that will move you back.
#12
Oh, you know...
Join Date: May 2009
Location: DC
Posts: 2,834
Bikes: '74 Schwinn Sports Tourer (Polo), S-Works E5 Team Festina (Chorus 11), Trek 2200 Bonded Carbon (Fixed), Trek 920 (7 speed IGH), Chesini Olimpiade SL (1x7)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
#13
sɹɐʇsɟoןןnɟsʇıbɟɯo
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: seattle, too many links
Posts: 3,986
Bikes: fixed gear recumbent trike
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
^^^
probably ridden by a goat
probably ridden by a goat
#14
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 21
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
thanks, i've had my seat too far back, and my stem too short. i have been influenced by people emphasizing one thing over another.
#15
Calamari Marionette Ph.D
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
ericcc65
General Cycling Discussion
24
09-24-19 05:09 AM
luderart
General Cycling Discussion
5
01-15-10 06:02 AM