My old rear Mavic CXP21 with RX-100 hub and a 9 speed HG cassette fit easily into my rear triangle. I think it had 4 threads left over at the ends.

I purchased a new rim and hub, Alex DR14 and Shimano Deore 8/9 hub. The spacing now is tight.

The wheel I purchased was wobbling so I took it back to REI to have them true it.

When I arrived the tech tells me that the rear triangle is 4mm out of true and that my rear spacing is tight. He says that it appears that it was originally designed for a 120mm or 127mm axle. I told him that I had no problems with my other wheel.

I read somewhere that rear forks should have a spacing as follows:
120mm for 5 speed
127mm for 6-7 speed
130mm for 8-9-10 speed

Am I missing something? Did I somehow manage to ride a 6-7 speed hub with a 9 speed cassette? Some how that does not seem possible.

Everything I bought is second hand so I do not have a history. I know that Sheldon says that the RX-100 is from 1997 and that 105SC was a 7 speed.

Confused and I do not have my axle so I cannot measure it.

Rx100 hub was both 126 and 130 spaced and sound like you were at 130mm spacing IE: road spacing. Now you have a mountain bike hub and it is 135mm spacing, so you need a road hub or wheel
.

I asked when I bought it if the Deore was road or MTB I was told it was road.

With all lines that are out I can not keep track. According to Sheldon the Deore is either a touring or MTB hub.

I doubt they will take it back, but they may and they do not have any 105s so can I run the wider spacing without it hurting the frame?

The bad thing about running a wider spaced hub is that it puts a bending stress on the axle and bearings. They sold you the wrong thing.
Most newer road bikes are spaced at 130mm.
Tourers and mountain bikes usually run 135mm spacing. All of shimano's Deore hubs are 135mm.

Can I get some new cones and an axle and respace the hub to 130? I would need to redish but I think that would be minor.

My bottom line here is that I do not want this to effect my bike or cause me undue injury. If the spacing is off by 2.5mm on each side this is probably flaring the dropouts so that they are not level. This would cause problems with wheel retention I would think.

You can buy a longer axle , shimano uses a 10x1, and add some left end spacers .
If the shop is going to do a cold set for alignment , go with the 135.
[though nothing wrong with 130].
the same hub is dished less with the longer axle,
after you re center the rim between the new longer axle ends

frames went from 126 to 130 to add the 8th cog.
thereafter the engineers crammed in more by thinning out the spaces and chain.

7 was a thinning to ad 1 cog to standard 6, .. 8 was just adding 1 cog
without narrowing the chain and spacing of the 7 speed ..

Return the wheel, get the right one, and find a new tech.

Return the tech, get the right one, and find a new wheel.

=8-)

You can remove spacers from the left end of the axle to get your Deore hub down to 130mm (or whatever your frame is at.) You may have to cut the axle short or else it can protrude out past the dropouts and make it impossible to get your QR tight. I always like to space my wheels to fit exactly in the frame, although it's not always a big deal.

And don't go to that shop anymore. They don't know what they're talking about.

I never go to REI for bike stuff. My rim blew out a week before payday and I needed a new one 'cause that's how I get to work. My father inlaw fronted me the cash and it was member rewards day so I go 20% off.

They do not stock a 105. I can get a really nice mid grade for $200, but I do not have that kind of cash and I want to get a new set anyway.

So as fietsbob said. I could cold set the rear triangle, cause my bike is steel, and then I could go back and forth. Beater in the winter and nice in the summer.

My normal tech for basic repairs and such is me. I built my bike from the ground up after I bought the frame. For all the hard stuff, wheel truing, things I am lost on, or frame straightening I go to WTF bikes on 7th and clay. I went to Bike Gallery for a wheel true and tension on my rear wheel. They did a good job, but failed to educate/warn me of the hazards of having even 2mm of thin side wall. So I am not sure that I want to go back.

Personal preference with techs is tell me what can wait and tell me what can't. A thin side wall obviously cannot wait to be replaced.

Just realized you live in Springfield...

WTF is a great little shop and have hung out there a bit and expect that they will not give you any BS... you can also head up Division to A Better Cycle as their crew is also very skilled and I found them to be very knowledgeable when they loaned me some shop space
to overhaul my friend's SA hub.

Am not sure how much you paid for the new wheel but you should be able to get a a decent 130mm road wheel for around $100.00... you could also call Citybikes to see what they have in stock... sometimes they have some really decent used parts that will be better than a lower end factory built wheel.

Oddly I was headed to A Better Cycle when I happened onto WTF. Super nice guy. He extended me credit on some stuff till I got paid. He is fast and honest.

Tom is a decent guy and WTF = Well Tuned Fast.

Was nice to see that after he got wiped out by thieves he has been able to start up his business in what has to be one of Portland's best locations... he just needs a good Mexican food cart on his lot to make things perfect.

Tell him that Canuck with the Raleigh 20 says hi when you see him next...

Are you talking about the new or old hub? Sounds like your old wheel was 130mm and your new one is 135mm. As previously mentioned, you can remove the 5mm spacer from the left side and cut 5mm off the axle. Reassemble, re-dish and everything's perfect for your bike.

Even better if you can return it and get a 130mm wheel. Otherwise, spend the 15-20 minutes to re-space that new wheel to 130mm.

At Danno that's very helpful. Thanks I will inspect the wheel and see about removing that.