Talus

Hi. I'm a noob wrench and need some advice. I need to replace the BB on my '90ish Specialized Hardrock. (it has Shimano 200GS parts) I was going to order some tools, but I wanted to make sure I'm getting the right ones for the job. I have a workstand, and a pretty complete automotive toolkit but I have very few bike tools. Can you think of anything I will need besides:

https://www.parktool.com/product/univ...d-cranks-CWP-7

https://www.parktool.com/product/bott...et-tool-BBT-22

Also (hard to tell for sure because I bought the bike used and cheap) I think it is missing the lockring from the non-drive side. Would this come with a new BB?

A search on the innerwebs showed that I need a square taper, 68mm shell, 113mm spindle, sealed cartridge BB. Any way to confirm this, and where can such info be found?

Thanks in advance for any help.

jimc101

I prefer the CCP-22 https://www.parktool.com/product/cran...-cranks-CCP-22 to the CWP-7

the BBT-22 is good, also you will need an 8mm wrench

If the lock ring is missing from the BB, then is it not moving arround? pictures would be useful.

for BB size, this should be on a sticker on the BB when you remove it, or get a set of calipers and measure with the crank off / BB still installed.

There have been a number of threads asking this type of question in the last month do a search for more info.

canam73

Your bottom bracket spec sounds right. The main thing to confirm would be the spindle length and the best way to check that is to measure your old one. I recently used one of these:

https://www.benscycle.net/index.php?m...oducts_id=3280

on a bike and am quite happy with it.

Talus

Here's pic. Maybe I'm using the wrong term. Maybe dust cap? Whatever it is called, it seems to be open to the elements. My other bikes have a cover on the non-drive side.

BCRider

That's not a dust cap, it's a plastic support bushing. And what you see is what you get. It's just a little recessed. When you remove it you'll find that in section it's a "T" shape with the spline on the outside and a slight taper to support the end of the sealed cartridge on the inside.

I too suggest the CCP-22 over the one you showed which needs a socket set to use. I've used my '22 for years now and it's still running strong. I doubt that it's possible to wear it out in home use. Just keep a little thick oil or grease on the threads so they don't wear from dry friction over the years. And with the right bit in the end they work with ISIS or Octalink as well.

And yes these two tools are all you need. Once you have the BB cartridge out you'll see that it has a label on it that says what the spindle length is so then you can go shopping for the new one. I suggest the UN-72 as a nice upgrade that is still not expensive. The last one I bought about 6 years back was only $26. Down south of the 49th I suspect that even with todays prices it will still be about the same. Or even cheaper online. The '72's break in after a few miles to where they are so free rolling that you'd swear that they are worn out and all the grease went away. But they go on for many years like that and just keep on ticking.

I wish I'd kept my mid 90's Hardrock. A superb "best bang for the buck" bike if I ever saw one. I had the metallic red version which was one of the last years of the CrMo frames. Looked sweet and rode even sweeter than it looked. Take good care of yours and ride the tires of it, replace and repeat for years to come.

DannoXYZ 

Sometimes the handle on the CCCP-22 tool is too short and its so thin, it'll hurt your hand trying to push with the necessary force to loosen a crank. I slip a 1-foot long pipe over it and squeeze it towards the crankarm. Kinda like the motion you'd use with hedge-trimmers.