After how many miles do you get new tires?

It depends on the type of tire. I like to ride on Continental Supersonics, but they last only 1000 miles (on the rear). The Continental 3000 GP is on my rear wheel now for 2000 miles and still looks fine.. It also depends on your weight, the pressure in the tires and the type of surface you are riding on..

So the short answer is "your mileage may vary"..

At the other extreme, my touring bike came with Continental Top Touring 2000, in 700x32. The rear one lasted for 3000 km (too much loaded touring, plus a trailercycle) and the front one... is still good after 16000 km.

BTW, on that rear wheel, I have installed a TT 700x37 for 3 years, and recently came back to 700x32 because I rarely use the trailercycle on that bike. Kids are older, so I now have a tandem for that kind of duties.

Considering all the variables,it's like asking. "how long is a rope?".

Ok for road riders riding on 700 X 23, 100psi, who weigh around 150 lbs, who ride on the road. I've gotten flats the last few times I've went out and I'm thinking maybe it's time for new tires. I have about 2000 miles on the tires that came stock on my bike,
Hutchinson Flash. They feel worn and have a few puncture holes in them. Does anyone use a strudier tire for winter? Changing flats in the cold is no fun!

Any Kevlar folder would be less prone to road trash flats. Ritchey "Fortress" is one example. There are many other brands to pick from. In the winter I pull out my hardtail with studs and go for it. The road bike sits in the barn and waits for the first thaw.

2000 miles is pretty good on an OEM tire (tire that came with bike). If you replace them, next time rotate them every 3-400 miles and you will possibly get even more mileage. But if you are riding in an area like I do here in Maine, keeping a tire going 2000 miles is more a matter of luck than quality rubber.

Rotate between back and front? I've never heard that before.

Yes, rotate front for back. The rear tire always wears faster. It handles the majority of the weight, all the power of the legs, and the tire most likely to lock up under braking is the rear, which creates flat spots on the tire.

We're in for it, we'll get the whole DON'T ROTATE YOU'LL DIE!!! NO, ROTATE, YOU WON'T DIE!!!! thread all over again. Oh well.

Certainly did not mean to open up a can of worms. Oh well.

Just because a tyre has a folding kevlar bead does NOT mean it has any kevlar flat protection in the tread. Buy tyres in 3s rather than pairs and replace the rear when it wears.

Perhaps he should've been more specific. Rotate the front tire to the back and throw away the back tire then replace the front tire with a new tire.

My reason for this is twofold. One is well known, your back tire wears a lot faster than your front tire but your front tire is the one with the most control. So you should never put the worn out back tire on the front since a blowout on the front is a lot less controllable. So just chuck the back tire and replace it with the front tire then replace the front tire with a new tire.
Second reason is because the front tire has been stretched already. Most flats occur on the rear when the most weight is on the ground plus the rear wears faster. It's easier to change the back tire if it's been pre-stretched.

Good catch. I should have been more specific. I did mean kevlar belted tires. The Ritchey "Fortress" I mentioned being one such example. Sorry for that.

I would love customers to buy their tires in 3's. Excellent idea. But rotating them is an option most riders overlook.

How many miles I get and how many you get won't be the same. Short answer is I get as many as I get.

the tire, the psi you ride at, your weight, the roads you ride, how much glass you hit, how you stop, and on and on all affect the wear.

I got 5000 mile out of Mich Pro race, a friend got 1500...so.... The mean streets have glass and I know a few people that have cut tires in less then 100 miles of new.

If you want to know when to buy new ones. Always keep a new set ready to go.

Cheers,
Dusk