Chainring Question
05-25-11, 03:03 PM
#1
Banned.
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Southeast
Posts: 356
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 45 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Chainring Question
I currently am running a compact (110mm) 52/38 FSA chainring. I have a big ride coming up in June in the mountains 100 mile 13000 ft of climbing. I am wanting to put a 34t inner ring on and am wondering what exactly I need to do. Are all brands compatible as long as they are 110mm? I have found some on ebay for around $20 just wondering if it would work. I don't want to spend a lot on it because it will be used very little, just want to make sure it will work without problems.
https://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=34t...43c4d2f8&vil=1
https://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=34t...43c4d2f8&vil=1
05-25-11, 06:07 PM
#3
Banned
It is a big jump, , 18 teeth , you could pick up a smaller big chairing too..
or make the small one a 36 52 combo, those were really common
on bikes in the past.
50, 34 or 48 34 are the new thing..
should be able to change chainrings without removing
the crank.
need a 5mm allen wrench and a special but inexpensive tool
to hold onto the nut on the opposite side,ring nut has notches
Your local bike shop is where i'd look 1st.
or make the small one a 36 52 combo, those were really common
on bikes in the past.
50, 34 or 48 34 are the new thing..
should be able to change chainrings without removing
the crank.
need a 5mm allen wrench and a special but inexpensive tool
to hold onto the nut on the opposite side,ring nut has notches
Your local bike shop is where i'd look 1st.
Last edited by fietsbob; 05-25-11 at 06:18 PM.
05-25-11, 06:17 PM
#4
Banned.
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Southeast
Posts: 356
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 45 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
I mainly looking to just change the small ring for some of the steeper climbs. One of the major climbs has some 18-20% grades and is 63 miles into the ride.
05-25-11, 11:38 PM
#6
Likes to Ride Far
There is no need to change the big ring if you're prepared to put up with the big change in cadence when shifting. The 52-34 jump should work OK, but not super smooth. If you can install a Third Eye Chain Watcher or K-Edge Chain Catcher to prevent the chain from derailling off the inside then that would be a good safety precaution.
To get as low as gear as possible for those 20% walls then you could even get a 33 tooth inner ring, TA Specialites makes one, but many companies have 34 as their smallest 110 BCD ring.
To get as low as gear as possible for those 20% walls then you could even get a 33 tooth inner ring, TA Specialites makes one, but many companies have 34 as their smallest 110 BCD ring.
05-25-11, 11:53 PM
#7
Banned
once you are in that small gear , you need to be at the crest of the hill
and coasting down the other side to do that upshift, and in that low ring
there is a likely hood of dragging the chain against the side of the big chainring
in the smaller gears on the rear wheel..
check out the ratios : https://sheldonbrown.com/gears/
and coasting down the other side to do that upshift, and in that low ring
there is a likely hood of dragging the chain against the side of the big chainring
in the smaller gears on the rear wheel..
check out the ratios : https://sheldonbrown.com/gears/
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
TallRider
Bicycle Mechanics
5
05-29-13 10:20 PM
