Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Bicycle Mechanics
Reload this Page >

Lubing a twist-grip shifter

Search
Notices
Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

Lubing a twist-grip shifter

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 06-07-11, 08:35 PM
  #1  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
5kdad's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Northwest Arkansas
Posts: 434

Bikes: Felt Z100 road bike, Schwinn Frontier, Salsa Marrakesh, box-store tandem, and Sun Recumbent trike.

Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 47 Post(s)
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Lubing a twist-grip shifter

I acquired a Sun recumbent trike over the winter (to go along with my road and mt bike). It's a 21 speed, with grips that twist to shift. They are very stiff to shift. My wife is starting to ride it some, and she can hardly shift it. Do I need to lubricate the cable, or is there and adjustment somewhere that needs to be loosened? The bike has sat for a couple years without being ridden (was kept indoors).
If it just needs lubrication, what type lube should I use?
5kdad is offline  
Old 06-07-11, 08:40 PM
  #2  
Constant tinkerer
 
FastJake's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 7,954
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 185 Post(s)
Liked 92 Times in 75 Posts
My guess is the cable, but it could also be in the derailer or shifter. Cables generally don't need much lube, so I'd recommend shooting everything full of WD40. If things are still stiff after that you must disconnect the cables and find the source of the friction by testing each piece independently. The cables/housing might need to be replaced, but I doubt it. WD40 works wonders on that stuff.
FastJake is offline  
Old 06-07-11, 11:15 PM
  #3  
Insane Bicycle Mechanic
 
Jeff Wills's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: other Vancouver
Posts: 9,826
Mentioned: 34 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 797 Post(s)
Liked 695 Times in 372 Posts
+1 on lubing the cables. Grip Shift (SRAM) shifters used to require a specific grease called Johnnisnot (really!), but I think that any light grease would work.
__________________
Jeff Wills

Comcast nuked my web page. It will return soon..
Jeff Wills is offline  
Old 06-07-11, 11:29 PM
  #4  
Senior Member
 
mechBgon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 6,956
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 6 Times in 5 Posts
Silicone grease would be my first choice for the shifter internals. An auto-parts store will have it.
mechBgon is offline  
Old 06-08-11, 01:27 AM
  #5  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 33,656

Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!

Mentioned: 39 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2026 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1,095 Times in 741 Posts
Originally Posted by mechBgon
Silicone grease would be my first choice for the shifter internals. An auto-parts store will have it.
+1 Silicone won't damage the plastic shifter internals and I think "Jonnisnot" was a silicone based lube. Hardware stores also usually have silicone grease in the plumbing section.

I also agree on determining the source of the friction by checking each component separately.
HillRider is offline  
Old 06-08-11, 02:03 AM
  #6  
Certified Bike Brat
 
Burton's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Montreal, Quebec
Posts: 4,251
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 6 Times in 6 Posts
There really isn`t much to the internals of a twist grip shifter besides a racheting mechanism so I doubt thats the issue. The cables on the other hand are always galvanized steel cables and unlined housing - both of which are prone to corrosion. Both zing and iron swell as they oxidize which will explain stiffness and eventual seized cables. Just replace the cables with stainless steel and use lined housings, grease or lube the whole assy and you`re good almost indefinately.
Burton is offline  
Old 06-08-11, 09:58 AM
  #7  
.
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 199
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Before trying all the lubricating ideas mentioned above, check the derailleurs. Try moving them by hand to see how forceful the springs are. Try moving the derailleurs of other bikes for reference. If your wife's derailleurs have unusually strong springs, that may be the source of your problem. I don't have a fix for that. Anyone else? Change springs?

I switched front derailleurs recently. My old one shifted easily with twist shifters. The new one requires some muscle. I'm a rock climber, so I consider it part of my training.
daveizdum is offline  
Old 06-08-11, 10:08 AM
  #8  
Senior Member
 
BCRider's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: The 'Wack, BC, Canada
Posts: 5,556

Bikes: Norco (2), Miyata, Canondale, Soma, Redline

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 44 Post(s)
Liked 45 Times in 35 Posts
If the bike didn't have good cables and housings then that could be part of the issue. And as mentioned directly above if the rear derailleur has a strong spring or if it's corroded at the pivots it will reflect back to the shifter as being very stiff to move.

If you disconnect the cable at the rear derailleur you should be able to test all three parts of the system separately and find which ones are the culprits.

The grip shift mechanisms are pretty simple but if they are dirty that won't help either. But to clean them you need to remove the grips. Once that's done you can just twist and pull on the twisting part and it pops right out. Take note of the cable routing and remove any covers if your version uses them. Once cleaned you can lube it with either some silicone grease as mentioned or even just any water resistant boat trailer grease. In particular be sure the little spring (the one that looks like SRAM's logo) gets a good dollop of grease.

As for the cable and housing if it's an older bike it's possible that the cable is corroded. It's also possible that it was used enough in the past that the cable has cut a groove into the inner lining of the housing. Frankly cables and housings on bikes should be replaced rather than fuss around trying to clean and lube them. You can do all that only to find out that the cable has cut a groove in the lining and that all your fussing about was for naught since it'll still pinch in the groove and be stiff to move. Bite the bullet and get some new index shifter housing and buy the better quality "Slik" or equivalent smooth die drawn cable which will tend to not cut into the lining as much as the regular cables. The feel they provide on the shifter will likely make you want to change out the brakes to the same sort of cables. Yep, they really do feel that much nicer.
BCRider is offline  
Old 06-08-11, 12:45 PM
  #9  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 469

Bikes: Trek Madone 5.5, Klein Q Pro Elite, Surley LHT

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
first off DO NOT USE WD40. This stuff is basically a solvent. My guess is that the shifter problem is caused by cables and/or housing. I would start there and while you are replacing the cables lube the inside of the shifter with a little johneysnot.
kycycler is offline  
Old 06-08-11, 01:38 PM
  #10  
Senior Member
 
vredstein's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Tucson, Arizona
Posts: 704

Bikes: '02 Lemond Buenos Aires, '98 Fuji Touring w/ Shimano Nexus premium, '06 Jamis Nova 853 cross frame set up as commuter, '03 Fuji Roubaix Pro 853 back up training bike

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Are the shifters labeled "Sunrace" 7-speed?
vredstein is offline  
Old 06-08-11, 06:26 PM
  #11  
Certified Bike Brat
 
Burton's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Montreal, Quebec
Posts: 4,251
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 6 Times in 6 Posts
Originally Posted by kycycler
first off DO NOT USE WD40. This stuff is basically a solvent. My guess is that the shifter problem is caused by cables and/or housing. I would start there and while you are replacing the cables lube the inside of the shifter with a little johneysnot.
The primary ingredient in WD40 is a lightweight mineral oil and its primary use is as a lubricant and as an anticorrosion treatment. It might work as a solvent simply because of its low viscosity - but thats pretty expensive solvent. There are other products that do a better job for a lot less money.

Likwise - there are more suitable products on the market for cable lube, but if WD40 is all you`ve got - I`d have no issues using it.
Burton is offline  
Old 06-08-11, 06:33 PM
  #12  
Senior Member
 
BCRider's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: The 'Wack, BC, Canada
Posts: 5,556

Bikes: Norco (2), Miyata, Canondale, Soma, Redline

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 44 Post(s)
Liked 45 Times in 35 Posts
I concur with Burton.

WD40 is largely a solvent but it also contains a light oil which, as it happens is just about the best option for lubing cables and housings on a bicycle as you're likely to find. Granted it'll take the better part of a month or more for the solvent part to evaporate but when it does you're left with a light oil which is pretty much all you want in a bicycle cable housing.

The issue is that the plastic itself is more than slippery enough on its own. By the time WD40 or any other lube helps it's an indication that the cable has cut a furrow into the housing's liner and that the housing itself needs to be replaced. Using some lube, such as WD40, is just a stop gap solution at this point to buy some time until new housings can be installed. Even better would be new housings and that die drawn smooth surface "Slik" cable option to put into the new housings.
BCRider is offline  
Old 06-08-11, 10:27 PM
  #13  
Senior Member
 
mechBgon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 6,956
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 6 Times in 5 Posts
Originally Posted by BCRider
But to clean them you need to remove the grips. Once that's done you can just twist and pull on the twisting part and it pops right out.
On a few models, yes. On many others, the twisting part is retained in one fashion or another, and brute-forcing it will break the retention device. If in doubt, post some photos of the one in question. SRAM in particular seems to take fiendish delight in making as many different types as they can think of
mechBgon is offline  
Old 06-09-11, 10:16 AM
  #14  
Senior Member
 
kamtsa's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,821
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
This site has Grip Shift Lube (limited supply).

https://www.cleverconcepts.net/finis....com/index.php
kamtsa is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Khb
Bicycle Mechanics
4
10-02-17 11:16 AM
The B
Bicycle Mechanics
6
02-06-14 08:27 PM
skieslord
Bicycle Mechanics
23
10-31-11 02:16 PM
fishymamba
Bicycle Mechanics
12
03-12-11 04:00 PM
asok
Bicycle Mechanics
9
05-17-10 04:39 PM

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.