Frame bending
#1
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Frame bending
I recently had to ship my 1976 Raleigh Superbe from Canada though US Customs.
As I was reassembling it I could not get the rear wheel on and then I realized that the right side frame fork was bent in about 1 to 1 1/4". The bend begins about 4 or 5 inches posterior to the seat down tube. The wheels were off as I had to ship it through in disassembled in a bike box.
I have thought about a cold bend using the method descibed on the Sheldon Brown web site and doing it myself.I am not a mechanic though. I have also thought of sending it to a bike shop or possibly even a motorcycle frame shop where it can be rebent in a vise.
I like the bike alot. It is otherwise in mint condition. I just began to reride it after a 35 year hiatus. It has less than 100-125 mi on it. When it was put in storage in 1976 it had less than 50 miles on it and it looks like a new bike...not even a scratch on the inner side of the fenders!
Any ideas will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you.
wgnovakmd
As I was reassembling it I could not get the rear wheel on and then I realized that the right side frame fork was bent in about 1 to 1 1/4". The bend begins about 4 or 5 inches posterior to the seat down tube. The wheels were off as I had to ship it through in disassembled in a bike box.
I have thought about a cold bend using the method descibed on the Sheldon Brown web site and doing it myself.I am not a mechanic though. I have also thought of sending it to a bike shop or possibly even a motorcycle frame shop where it can be rebent in a vise.
I like the bike alot. It is otherwise in mint condition. I just began to reride it after a 35 year hiatus. It has less than 100-125 mi on it. When it was put in storage in 1976 it had less than 50 miles on it and it looks like a new bike...not even a scratch on the inner side of the fenders!
Any ideas will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you.
wgnovakmd
#2
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It's an easy job if you follow Sheldon Brown's instructions. Or you can bring it to any decent bike shop or co-op if there's one around.
For future reference, drop in at a local shop and ask for front and rear transport spacers. Bikes and frames are shipped with these to prevent what happened to you. Shops throw dozens of these out every week so if you ask nicely they should be willing to give them to you. If uou can't get a pair, make your own by cutting a 3/4" wooden dowel rod to the right length (no great precision needed) and driving roofing nails into each end, trapping a washer under the head.
For future reference, drop in at a local shop and ask for front and rear transport spacers. Bikes and frames are shipped with these to prevent what happened to you. Shops throw dozens of these out every week so if you ask nicely they should be willing to give them to you. If uou can't get a pair, make your own by cutting a 3/4" wooden dowel rod to the right length (no great precision needed) and driving roofing nails into each end, trapping a washer under the head.
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WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#3
Banned
+1,
each bike shipped has a front block in the fork , the rear much less often,
as the wheel is installed by the assembly facility and is part of prepare ing it,
for padding and boxing.
each bike shipped has a front block in the fork , the rear much less often,
as the wheel is installed by the assembly facility and is part of prepare ing it,
for padding and boxing.
#4
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It's an easy job if you follow Sheldon Brown's instructions. Or you can bring it to any decent bike shop or co-op if there's one around.
For future reference, drop in at a local shop and ask for front and rear transport spacers. Bikes and frames are shipped with these to prevent what happened to you. Shops throw dozens of these out every week so if you ask nicely they should be willing to give them to you. If uou can't get a pair, make your own by cutting a 3/4" wooden dowel rod to the right length (no great precision needed) and driving roofing nails into each end, trapping a washer under the head.
For future reference, drop in at a local shop and ask for front and rear transport spacers. Bikes and frames are shipped with these to prevent what happened to you. Shops throw dozens of these out every week so if you ask nicely they should be willing to give them to you. If uou can't get a pair, make your own by cutting a 3/4" wooden dowel rod to the right length (no great precision needed) and driving roofing nails into each end, trapping a washer under the head.
I once bought a frame from a shop that had its rear triangle offset by about an inch. (Shipping damage.) I straightened it out and it rode fine until I sold it.
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For those shipping bikes often, a set of reusable transport axles are easily made from defunct hubs. Remove the locknuts, cones and axles from both a front and rear hub and reassemble just the cones and locknuts on the bare axles at the proper spacing. Use your own hubs qr skewer or get a discarded pair to clamp them in place. Nutted axles also can be used but are less convenient.
I made mine from a pair of hubs liberated from my LBS's scrap box and the total cost was zero.
I made mine from a pair of hubs liberated from my LBS's scrap box and the total cost was zero.
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#8
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I think it's fairly clear that he said 1-1/4", (" being the symbol for inches in the USA)
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#9
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