Hi all,

I'm in the process of having a cross frame built for me. I am going to run rim brakes, but I haven't decided which way to go. I am considering four potential options:

1) run V-brakes with road levers and some kind travel multiplier, like the travel agent.
2) run V-brakes with the diacompe V specific road levers
3) run shortie cantilevers, like avids with road levers
4) run tektro shortie V brakes with road levers.

I'm leaning towards option 3 for simplicity, and adjustability, but since I haven't tried any of these out, I would like to hear some opinions. Seems to me like most cross guys are running canti's...are they just traditionalists, or is there a reason for that?

Thanks,

Jeremy

i just run canti's, they work just as well as v-brakes if you set them up right, they are easy to maintain and the pads last a long time. They also leave plenty of room for big tyres caked in mud. It's a simple solution, no adapters or anything else to add to your brake system, works with regular road levers too.

I like old school, and prefer canti's on my CX. I tired the V's w/ Diacompe 287V's levers. It was a mess to set up and didn't feel right. I'm not the best mech, so I'm sure that's part of it.

I like my canti's, especially w/ Salmon pads. They seem to work the best. My new build will use old XT canti's w/ Salmon pads.

Cool, thanks for the input. I'll stay old school.

Jeremy

What do you need to mount cantilever brakes on the frame, do you need some sort of hanger on both the steer tube and the seatpost?

Yes. Usually the cable stop for the front brake clamps to the steerer tube. For the rear there are multiple options. You can have a cable stop brazed onto the seatpost. You can also have a rear cable stop on a bridge between the seatstays, below the seatpost. Another option - the one that I use - is to use a rear cable stop that attaches to the seat post binder bolt. It works very well, especially on smaller frames that don't have much room for a seatstay rear brake bridge.

If this is custom, maybe you can ask your builder to be creative on the rear cable hanger. In a few years, I plan on a custom build. Perhaps you can "steal" the Ibis hand job hanger idea. Or, my idea is to find a similar metal object that can actually be brazed onto the frame. Worth a shot.

Many experienced riders tell you that canties can also do an excellent job if they are correctly set up. I've heard various stories regarding V and cantie brakes and it apeears that everyone's experience is different. I like my V brakes on my MTB. But my canties on my CX bike work just as well on my CX bike. I'd probably go with canties. V brakes and those adjusters that compensate for aditional linear pul sound too complex and too pricy.

Hey Jeremy,

A couple of thoughts to possibly help your decision (or reinforce it if you've already setup your bike)...

1. Diacompe V-specific levers just work okay (setup is #@*), they are not great (like Shimano SLR levers)
2. Travel-Agent's cause premature cable failure due to the small radius pulley that it wraps around
3. Tektro Shortie's will have limited tire/mud clearance, but may be perfectly adequate for cross tires
4. Most cross bikes are set up with canti's (probably for a reason) ;-)
5. For cantis you will need a cable hanger for both front and rear (some frames have the rear brazed on)

If you want a recommendation:
------------------------------
a. Go with the "new" Shimano canti's and Kool Stop "salmon" pads (cost effective and should work great)
b. If cost is no object, go with Paul's cantis (Neo-retro/touring canti) and salmon pads
c. If cable hangers become an issue, go with the Tektro shorties (and salmon pads)

Note: V-brakes work very well and are simple, but compatibility with road levers becomes an issue due to cable pull (especially with dual control levers like Shimano STI/Campy Ergo where there are no long cable pull versions available).

Thanks for the input guys. I already bought my brakes. I'm using the nashbar shortie cantis, that look pretty much identical to the avid shorties. I figured this was the simplest, most versatile and most tunable way to go (because I can play around with stradle cable length). Also, this way my bike will attract less attention from would be theives. I'll let you know how it works out.