Is it worth the extra dough to buy the Coda Elite over the Coda Comp
10-09-11, 11:12 AM
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Is it worth the extra dough to buy the Coda Elite over the Coda Comp
I have decided to upgrade my bike which is a Trek 7.2 to a Jamis Coda. I rode a Coda Sport yesterday and I love the geometry, ride quality, and the overall quality.
Im looking to buy a bike that i can keep for a long time. Is it worth the extra $275 to buy the elite?
Im looking to buy a bike that i can keep for a long time. Is it worth the extra $275 to buy the elite?
10-09-11, 03:44 PM
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Seems like to me your paying almost $300 for maybe a touch better componets and "disc brakes" for the Elite over the Comp. I just bought a 2012 Coda Sport, decided I didn't need a "carbon fork" and the next step up componets, I prefered the "chrome molly" fork with the "dual bosses" for fender/rack both in the rear and the "fork", that seems more usefull, than a bit of weight savings from the carbon bladed fork, jmho, ymmv. If Disc Brakes are a big plus for you, then I'd get the Elite but for me, I've had disc brakes and they were a PIA to keep adjusted, etc. (of course that may be "just me" ). $775 to $1050 is a big jump to me and I just felt the Sport would do for what I wanted. The "steel" frame and fork do have a very nice RIDE! Have FUN in the choosing! 
BTW, I did have the LBS change my V-brakes from the "stock" Tektro's to "Avid Single Digit 5 series", I just prefer "Avid V-brakes to other brands".
BTW, I did have the LBS change my V-brakes from the "stock" Tektro's to "Avid Single Digit 5 series", I just prefer "Avid V-brakes to other brands".
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Last edited by bjjoondo; 10-09-11 at 03:46 PM. Reason: Additional information added
10-09-11, 05:02 PM
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What about investing $500 in your FX7.2...
You may get the better bike than Coda Sport is.
You may get the better bike than Coda Sport is.
10-09-11, 07:43 PM
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10-09-11, 07:48 PM
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10-09-11, 08:23 PM
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Dear Schertzcyclist!
If you are able to purchase the Coda Elite, as opposed to the Coda Comp, by all means, go right ahead. As you already most probably know, the disc brakes are going to be more than adequate during inclement weather. It's the disc brakes that seals the deal on this one. If you're a fan, then do it! If not, then the Comp is your preferred option.
I happen to own a Trek 7.5FX and after riding it for over 4,000 miles. I feel that it's safe to say that there is absolutely no comparison between the smooth ride of any Coda compared to that of any Trek FX.
When you consider the smooth ride affects of the Coda along with the life expectancy of a chromoly frame that is inherently endowed with the Coda, as well, the Trek FX is found wanting.
Furthermore, the Trek Fx has an aluminum frame, which as we all should know by now, has a fatigue life much shorter than than that of chromoly steel. Chromoly steel has a fatugue limit that for all practical purposes cannot be reach by the practical use of any of its frames. That means, that if kept dry, its life is unlimited. One could never say that about a bicycle that has an aluminum frame.
- Slim
If you are able to purchase the Coda Elite, as opposed to the Coda Comp, by all means, go right ahead. As you already most probably know, the disc brakes are going to be more than adequate during inclement weather. It's the disc brakes that seals the deal on this one. If you're a fan, then do it! If not, then the Comp is your preferred option.
I happen to own a Trek 7.5FX and after riding it for over 4,000 miles. I feel that it's safe to say that there is absolutely no comparison between the smooth ride of any Coda compared to that of any Trek FX.
When you consider the smooth ride affects of the Coda along with the life expectancy of a chromoly frame that is inherently endowed with the Coda, as well, the Trek FX is found wanting.
Furthermore, the Trek Fx has an aluminum frame, which as we all should know by now, has a fatigue life much shorter than than that of chromoly steel. Chromoly steel has a fatugue limit that for all practical purposes cannot be reach by the practical use of any of its frames. That means, that if kept dry, its life is unlimited. One could never say that about a bicycle that has an aluminum frame.
- Slim
Last edited by SlimRider; 10-09-11 at 08:27 PM.
10-09-11, 08:47 PM
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You already made a conclusion and then asking the question?
Why would I waste my time trying to proove something to a very opinionated person....
...Especially after I got a very senseful answer from the topic starter.
Why would I waste my time trying to proove something to a very opinionated person....
...Especially after I got a very senseful answer from the topic starter.
Last edited by justfitme; 10-09-11 at 08:51 PM.
10-09-11, 08:59 PM
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I aplogize for my previous statement. I had no provocation to say that, directly!
I do sincerely reject that posture.
I hope you forgive me...
- Slim
10-09-11, 10:00 PM
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I've got an Elite on order. My main question is when is Jamis going to start shipping them?
My decision was partly influenced by an insurance settlement from being hit on my Sputnik. I decided to treat myself to the better bike.
My decision was partly influenced by an insurance settlement from being hit on my Sputnik. I decided to treat myself to the better bike.
10-09-11, 10:52 PM
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The shop i went to said the Coda Comp and Coda Elite wouldnt become available till the end of November. They just had the 2012 Sport model in stock which is the base Coda for this year.
10-09-11, 11:14 PM
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Altough I do not want to confuse the author since he has a strong point - new steel toy.
But I want to answer your question now - how do I figure?
Deore/Acera/Alivio/AlexRims is not a very strong combination of components that would be hard (or expensive) to upgrade it over.
I've done it once with Trek 7200FX and know exactly how much would it take to make a step or a half step above.
You have a very strong point on steel frame and I'm not going to argue, especially since I used and still owe Reynolds or True Temper steel frames..
But, in many cases the combination of alu frame and carbon fork works perfectly ifne to make the difference very hard to notice in many cases for many riders.
To come back to our topic I must say to author that the difference between Elite and Comp is pretty much in disc brakes and better crankset (which might be not that important) And the desicion has to be based on this - to upgrade to disc brakes Comp version will require different fork, wheels, the brakes and labor.... and all these may cost much more then 275 dollars
10-09-11, 11:52 PM
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I'm not going to hold anything against you, of course.
Altough I do not want to confuse the author since he has a strong point - new steel toy.
But I want to answer your question now - how do I figure?
Deore/Acera/Alivio/AlexRims is not a very strong combination of components that would be hard (or expensive) to upgrade it over.
I've done it once with Trek 7200FX and know exactly how much would it take to make a step or a half step above.
You have a very strong point on steel frame and I'm not going to argue, especially since I used and still owe Reynolds or True Temper steel frames..
But, in many cases the combination of alu frame and carbon fork works perfectly ifne to make the difference very hard to notice in many cases for many riders.
To come back to our topic I must say to author that the difference between Elite and Comp is pretty much in disc brakes and better crankset (which might be not that important) And the desicion has to be based on this - to upgrade to disc brakes Comp version will require different fork, wheels, the brakes and labor.... and all these may cost much more then 275 dollars
Altough I do not want to confuse the author since he has a strong point - new steel toy.
But I want to answer your question now - how do I figure?
Deore/Acera/Alivio/AlexRims is not a very strong combination of components that would be hard (or expensive) to upgrade it over.
I've done it once with Trek 7200FX and know exactly how much would it take to make a step or a half step above.
You have a very strong point on steel frame and I'm not going to argue, especially since I used and still owe Reynolds or True Temper steel frames..
But, in many cases the combination of alu frame and carbon fork works perfectly ifne to make the difference very hard to notice in many cases for many riders.
To come back to our topic I must say to author that the difference between Elite and Comp is pretty much in disc brakes and better crankset (which might be not that important) And the desicion has to be based on this - to upgrade to disc brakes Comp version will require different fork, wheels, the brakes and labor.... and all these may cost much more then 275 dollars
I do happen to agree with everything you've stated here by the way!
It's just that I find it difficult to compare aluminum with steel when it comes to bicycle frames. Aluminum is good for some applications, but when it comes to the OP saying that they wanted to keep the bike for a "long time", my juices got flowing just a little too high for common civility.
Thanks Again, Justfitme!
- Slim
10-16-11, 01:24 AM
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10-16-11, 03:10 PM
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Dear Schertzcyclist!
If you are able to purchase the Coda Elite, as opposed to the Coda Comp, by all means, go right ahead. As you already most probably know, the disc brakes are going to be more than adequate during inclement weather. It's the disc brakes that seals the deal on this one. If you're a fan, then do it! If not, then the Comp is your preferred option.
I happen to own a Trek 7.5FX and after riding it for over 4,000 miles. I feel that it's safe to say that there is absolutely no comparison between the smooth ride of any Coda compared to that of any Trek FX.
When you consider the smooth ride affects of the Coda along with the life expectancy of a chromoly frame that is inherently endowed with the Coda, as well, the Trek FX is found wanting.
Furthermore, the Trek Fx has an aluminum frame, which as we all should know by now, has a fatigue life much shorter than than that of chromoly steel. Chromoly steel has a fatugue limit that for all practical purposes cannot be reach by the practical use of any of its frames. That means, that if kept dry, its life is unlimited. One could never say that about a bicycle that has an aluminum frame.
- Slim
If you are able to purchase the Coda Elite, as opposed to the Coda Comp, by all means, go right ahead. As you already most probably know, the disc brakes are going to be more than adequate during inclement weather. It's the disc brakes that seals the deal on this one. If you're a fan, then do it! If not, then the Comp is your preferred option.
I happen to own a Trek 7.5FX and after riding it for over 4,000 miles. I feel that it's safe to say that there is absolutely no comparison between the smooth ride of any Coda compared to that of any Trek FX.
When you consider the smooth ride affects of the Coda along with the life expectancy of a chromoly frame that is inherently endowed with the Coda, as well, the Trek FX is found wanting.
Furthermore, the Trek Fx has an aluminum frame, which as we all should know by now, has a fatigue life much shorter than than that of chromoly steel. Chromoly steel has a fatugue limit that for all practical purposes cannot be reach by the practical use of any of its frames. That means, that if kept dry, its life is unlimited. One could never say that about a bicycle that has an aluminum frame.
- Slim
10-16-11, 03:39 PM
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W R O N G !
I currently own a 1986 Nishiki Sebring, that has survived many torrential downpours. One time, my group was just about two miles away from the nearest motel. We stopped under a bridge for about and hour or so, but there was just no relief. We then drearily pedaled onto the motel, checked in, cleaned our bikes off, and turned on the heaters. We placed our bikes next to the heaters. We then went out for beer and pizza, just across the street. (Boy! Does that bring back memories...)
As long as you're not in Monsoon rain territory, your bike will eventually dry. Hopefully, you have already water-proofed your bike with Weigle's frame saver, so that moisture will have more time to evaporate, before reaching the actual metal portion of your bike.
- Slim
PS.
It takes many years for bikes to rust out, not months!
I currently own a 1986 Nishiki Sebring, that has survived many torrential downpours. One time, my group was just about two miles away from the nearest motel. We stopped under a bridge for about and hour or so, but there was just no relief. We then drearily pedaled onto the motel, checked in, cleaned our bikes off, and turned on the heaters. We placed our bikes next to the heaters. We then went out for beer and pizza, just across the street. (Boy! Does that bring back memories...)
As long as you're not in Monsoon rain territory, your bike will eventually dry. Hopefully, you have already water-proofed your bike with Weigle's frame saver, so that moisture will have more time to evaporate, before reaching the actual metal portion of your bike.
- Slim
PS.
It takes many years for bikes to rust out, not months!
Last edited by SlimRider; 10-16-11 at 06:52 PM.
10-16-11, 05:25 PM
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Fanboy posts anecdotal irrelevant 'evidence', with copious usage of bold font and capitals...
Really, it's getting tiresome. Get a grip or a life...
Either way: stop using bold fonts. There's a reason for it not being the default...
Really, it's getting tiresome. Get a grip or a life...
Either way: stop using bold fonts. There's a reason for it not being the default...
10-16-11, 06:42 PM
#19
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As to the $500 upgrade on a base bike:
Upgrading any base bike with Alivio/Altus/Acera to a higher end group is a phenomenal leap in the pleasure of riding. In my case, it was SRAM X9, which I spent rough guess $250-$300, and it made shifting an absolute dream. The folks that compare those three and want "the best quality components" are arguing over the scraps, and not close to the fun groups.
Just saying...
Upgrading any base bike with Alivio/Altus/Acera to a higher end group is a phenomenal leap in the pleasure of riding. In my case, it was SRAM X9, which I spent rough guess $250-$300, and it made shifting an absolute dream. The folks that compare those three and want "the best quality components" are arguing over the scraps, and not close to the fun groups.
Just saying...
10-16-11, 07:35 PM
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not really wantiing to stir the pot up more but I have never experienced a serious decline in the integrity of my alum. bike. The rider, yes...the bike, no.
10-16-11, 07:43 PM
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I currently own a Trek 7.5FX and I occasionally ride and enjoy it! However, I will anticipate that it will fail me much sooner than my steel-framed bikes, simply because of its short fatigue life. That's the reason that I only ride it on Sundays. According to most people that I've known, as well as most reviews that I've read, aluminum bikes will last for many years with normal daily use. However, chromoly steel has already been known to render excellent service to its owners after decades.
- Slim
10-17-11, 07:23 AM
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I guess I don't understand this idea that "steel" framed bikes can't be ridden in the rain without "instantly" rusting?? I rode cro-mo steel touring bikes in the 80's and got caught out in pouring rains many times, never had a rust problem and NEVER put any "additives" inside the frames!! Is this something NEW that's become a problem, surely would be a bummer as I just bought a 2012 Jamis Coda Sport because of the "ride" quality and feel of cro-mo steel over alum. Any info. would be appreciated as to what needs to be done to "fix" the supposed problem asap, thanks!
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10-17-11, 11:32 AM
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I brought a 2010 sport frame set..... will just build it up the way I want....
