Vintage Trek BB Removal
02-05-12, 11:24 AM
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Vintage Trek BB Removal
Hello all -
I am planning to overhaul my 1982 Trek 614's bottom bracket and I want to make sure I get the right tools. I am assuming it has the original Nikko bottom bracket since all other parts are original. Here's what I think I need... Park CCP-22 for crank removal, Park HCW5 for the lockring, HCW4 and HCW5 for the bottom bracket removal. Is that correct?
I am planning to overhaul my 1982 Trek 614's bottom bracket and I want to make sure I get the right tools. I am assuming it has the original Nikko bottom bracket since all other parts are original. Here's what I think I need... Park CCP-22 for crank removal, Park HCW5 for the lockring, HCW4 and HCW5 for the bottom bracket removal. Is that correct?
02-05-12, 12:40 PM
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Hello all -
I am planning to overhaul my 1982 Trek 614's bottom bracket and I want to make sure I get the right tools. I am assuming it has the original Nikko bottom bracket since all other parts are original. Here's what I think I need... Park CCP-22 for crank removal, Park HCW5 for the lockring, HCW4 and HCW5 for the bottom bracket removal. Is that correct?
I am planning to overhaul my 1982 Trek 614's bottom bracket and I want to make sure I get the right tools. I am assuming it has the original Nikko bottom bracket since all other parts are original. Here's what I think I need... Park CCP-22 for crank removal, Park HCW5 for the lockring, HCW4 and HCW5 for the bottom bracket removal. Is that correct?
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02-05-12, 04:53 PM
#4
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Pictures would help us make any recommendation with greater confidence.
Sometimes the "pin" spacing doesn't match the HCW-4.
A pin spanner (SPA-1) or even a couple Philips screwdrivers can work though.
I serviced a BB yesterday that required the HCW-11 tool for the adjustable cup that had the rectangular "boss" instead of the holes.
Sometimes the "pin" spacing doesn't match the HCW-4.
A pin spanner (SPA-1) or even a couple Philips screwdrivers can work though.
I serviced a BB yesterday that required the HCW-11 tool for the adjustable cup that had the rectangular "boss" instead of the holes.
Last edited by Bill Kapaun; 02-05-12 at 05:00 PM.
02-05-12, 05:10 PM
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If your only planning to service the BB and not replace it you really don't need to remove the "Fixed" cup (the one on the drive side) so you could eliminate the HCW4 and get the pin spanner instead.
Odds are if the fixed cup has never been removed it will be impossibly tight requireing lots of torque to remove. Unfortunately getting the wrench to hold still on those narrow cup flats is difficult and requires some extra tools either purchased or homemade
Odds are if the fixed cup has never been removed it will be impossibly tight requireing lots of torque to remove. Unfortunately getting the wrench to hold still on those narrow cup flats is difficult and requires some extra tools either purchased or homemade
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02-05-12, 09:00 PM
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If your only planning to service the BB and not replace it you really don't need to remove the "Fixed" cup (the one on the drive side) so you could eliminate the HCW4 and get the pin spanner instead.
Odds are if the fixed cup has never been removed it will be impossibly tight requireing lots of torque to remove. Unfortunately getting the wrench to hold still on those narrow cup flats is difficult and requires some extra tools either purchased or homemade
Odds are if the fixed cup has never been removed it will be impossibly tight requireing lots of torque to remove. Unfortunately getting the wrench to hold still on those narrow cup flats is difficult and requires some extra tools either purchased or homemade
02-05-12, 09:05 PM
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There are dedicated fixed cup removal/installation tools which lock the cup to substantial T handled fixture. For the home mechanic are devices which bolt to the spindle and hold the spanner so ti can't jump off the cup.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
02-05-12, 10:42 PM
#8
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I use a piece of flat bar with a hole in it that slides over the spindle.
I then use my PARK BBT-22 for a spacer.
I then screw in a 8MM bolt with a flat washer (finger tight) into the spindle end, which pushes the BBT-22 against the flat bar which holds the HCW-4 in place.
Doesn't work on nutted types though.
I then use my PARK BBT-22 for a spacer.
I then screw in a 8MM bolt with a flat washer (finger tight) into the spindle end, which pushes the BBT-22 against the flat bar which holds the HCW-4 in place.
Doesn't work on nutted types though.
02-06-12, 12:50 AM
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i've used sheldon's DIY remover to good effect on some old fixed cups:
02-06-12, 10:11 AM
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A 4" long 5/8" bolt with a couple of big washers and a nut can be used to hold the fixed cup in place so it can't slip while you apply the needed torque.
1. Remove the adjustable cup, spindle and bearings then thread the adjustable cup back in several turns.
2. Place a large washer on the bolt first and then run the bolt through the adjustable cup so the threaded end it sticks out of the fixed cup.
3. Place your fixed cup wrench over the cup's flats, add a second washer outside of the wrench and thread on the nut just barely snug.
4. Now the fixed cup wrench can't move while you turn the wrench (clockwise while facing the drive side) to unthread the fixed cup. "Turn" may be a bit of a misnomer and beating on the wrench with a mallet may be needed to get the cup started. These things are often very tight.
5. As soon as the cup breaks loose begin to back off the nut to let it unthread.
1. Remove the adjustable cup, spindle and bearings then thread the adjustable cup back in several turns.
2. Place a large washer on the bolt first and then run the bolt through the adjustable cup so the threaded end it sticks out of the fixed cup.
3. Place your fixed cup wrench over the cup's flats, add a second washer outside of the wrench and thread on the nut just barely snug.
4. Now the fixed cup wrench can't move while you turn the wrench (clockwise while facing the drive side) to unthread the fixed cup. "Turn" may be a bit of a misnomer and beating on the wrench with a mallet may be needed to get the cup started. These things are often very tight.
5. As soon as the cup breaks loose begin to back off the nut to let it unthread.
