Odd 4 cog freewheel removal
05-19-12, 12:50 PM
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Odd 4 cog freewheel removal
I picked up a 72ish Royce Union with a Sminano freewheel today. The freewheel looks like it might use the current Shimano removal socket but that socket is too big. It doesn't have the other common 2 or 3 slots. I'm wondering if it takes a special socket. Any advice?
Sorry, it's 5 cogs.
Sorry, it's 5 cogs.
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Last edited by robtown; 05-19-12 at 02:52 PM. Reason: typo in headline
05-19-12, 03:00 PM
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Given it's age, it probably needs the old Shimano splined remover. This is similar in shape to the current version, though with a smaller diameter.
Shimano enlarged the removal spline diameter some time in the eighties, so that a thin walled remover could be slid over the axle. On yours, you'll need to remove either the axle lock nut and right hand spacers (often there will be an second locknut deeper inside so the bearings won't need readjusting. If you cannot remover enough spacers on the right, you'll need to disassemble the axle from the left side and slide it out.
BTW- if you're planning or replacing the freewheel, let a bike shop do it since it should cost $5.00 or so (bring only the wheel), which is less than the remover. Otherwise if you need to buy the remover, I might have one to sell and it would be less than what you see in the link. Only problem is I won't know for sure until I go to work on Monday.
Shimano enlarged the removal spline diameter some time in the eighties, so that a thin walled remover could be slid over the axle. On yours, you'll need to remove either the axle lock nut and right hand spacers (often there will be an second locknut deeper inside so the bearings won't need readjusting. If you cannot remover enough spacers on the right, you'll need to disassemble the axle from the left side and slide it out.
BTW- if you're planning or replacing the freewheel, let a bike shop do it since it should cost $5.00 or so (bring only the wheel), which is less than the remover. Otherwise if you need to buy the remover, I might have one to sell and it would be less than what you see in the link. Only problem is I won't know for sure until I go to work on Monday.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
05-19-12, 07:15 PM
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Given it's age, it probably needs the old Shimano splined remover. This is similar in shape to the current version, though with a smaller diameter.
Shimano enlarged the removal spline diameter some time in the eighties, so that a thin walled remover could be slid over the axle. On yours, you'll need to remove either the axle lock nut and right hand spacers (often there will be an second locknut deeper inside so the bearings won't need readjusting. If you cannot remover enough spacers on the right, you'll need to disassemble the axle from the left side and slide it out.
BTW- if you're planning or replacing the freewheel, let a bike shop do it since it should cost $5.00 or so (bring only the wheel), which is less than the remover. Otherwise if you need to buy the remover, I might have one to sell and it would be less than what you see in the link. Only problem is I won't know for sure until I go to work on Monday.
Shimano enlarged the removal spline diameter some time in the eighties, so that a thin walled remover could be slid over the axle. On yours, you'll need to remove either the axle lock nut and right hand spacers (often there will be an second locknut deeper inside so the bearings won't need readjusting. If you cannot remover enough spacers on the right, you'll need to disassemble the axle from the left side and slide it out.
BTW- if you're planning or replacing the freewheel, let a bike shop do it since it should cost $5.00 or so (bring only the wheel), which is less than the remover. Otherwise if you need to buy the remover, I might have one to sell and it would be less than what you see in the link. Only problem is I won't know for sure until I go to work on Monday.
The bike does have some interesting Diacompe brake levers with white grip half-covers.
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Korval is Ships
See my Hyperlite 411 it's the photo model on OutRiderUSA web page
See my Hyperlite 411 it's the photo model on OutRiderUSA web page
05-19-12, 07:41 PM
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I had a Royce Onion back in the day. Not a real bad bike. Took constant attention to keep it working.
That cottered crank was razorblade sharp right where your ankle bone pokes out. When I rode in sandals or without socks, it would neatly plane off the skin about the size of a quarter. It seemed that it always happened just as the old injury was about healed.
With a set of decent rims, better brakes, and a shifter that didn't slide down the frame tube instead of moving the derailleur, it wouldn't be a bad piece. Post pics if you have any.
That cottered crank was razorblade sharp right where your ankle bone pokes out. When I rode in sandals or without socks, it would neatly plane off the skin about the size of a quarter. It seemed that it always happened just as the old injury was about healed.
With a set of decent rims, better brakes, and a shifter that didn't slide down the frame tube instead of moving the derailleur, it wouldn't be a bad piece. Post pics if you have any.
05-21-12, 10:44 PM
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I had a Royce Onion back in the day. Not a real bad bike. Took constant attention to keep it working.
That cottered crank was razorblade sharp right where your ankle bone pokes out. When I rode in sandals or without socks, it would neatly plane off the skin about the size of a quarter. It seemed that it always happened just as the old injury was about healed.
With a set of decent rims, better brakes, and a shifter that didn't slide down the frame tube instead of moving the derailleur, it wouldn't be a bad piece. Post pics if you have any.
That cottered crank was razorblade sharp right where your ankle bone pokes out. When I rode in sandals or without socks, it would neatly plane off the skin about the size of a quarter. It seemed that it always happened just as the old injury was about healed.
With a set of decent rims, better brakes, and a shifter that didn't slide down the frame tube instead of moving the derailleur, it wouldn't be a bad piece. Post pics if you have any.
__________________
Korval is Ships
See my Hyperlite 411 it's the photo model on OutRiderUSA web page
See my Hyperlite 411 it's the photo model on OutRiderUSA web page
05-27-12, 07:24 AM
#6
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Bikes: 70 Atala Record Proffesional, 00 Lemond, 08 Kestrel Evoke, 96 Colnago Master Olympic, 01 Colnago Ovalmaster, 76 Raleigh Gran Sport, 03 Fuji World, 86 Paramount, 90 Miyata CF, 09 Ritchey Breakaway CX, Bianchi Trofeo, 12 OutRiderUSA HyperLite
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Given it's age, it probably needs the old Shimano splined remover. This is similar in shape to the current version, though with a smaller diameter.
Shimano enlarged the removal spline diameter some time in the eighties, so that a thin walled remover could be slid over the axle. On yours, you'll need to remove either the axle lock nut and right hand spacers (often there will be an second locknut deeper inside so the bearings won't need readjusting. If you cannot remover enough spacers on the right, you'll need to disassemble the axle from the left side and slide it out.
Shimano enlarged the removal spline diameter some time in the eighties, so that a thin walled remover could be slid over the axle. On yours, you'll need to remove either the axle lock nut and right hand spacers (often there will be an second locknut deeper inside so the bearings won't need readjusting. If you cannot remover enough spacers on the right, you'll need to disassemble the axle from the left side and slide it out.
__________________
Korval is Ships
See my Hyperlite 411 it's the photo model on OutRiderUSA web page
See my Hyperlite 411 it's the photo model on OutRiderUSA web page
