BassNotBass

From what I've read you buy and make your son some neat stuff... I just want in on the action.

Looks like smallwheeler's jealous that he didn't think of it first.

BassNotBass

Very cool badmother.

smallwheeler

badmother, i dont know what you do for a living, but you could surely open a weekend shop installing brompton brackets! i think you could streamline the process using something like JB Weld Stick. its an epoxy putty that is designed for metal. i used it at uni when i was building models:



[h=1][/h]
[h=2]J-B SteelStik[/h]Steel Reinforced Epoxy Putty

• Strength 900 PSI
• Set Time 5 Minutes
• Cure Time 1 Hour
• Cure Color Dark Grey

Great For:

• Automotive & Machine Parts
• Exhaust Systems
• Plumbing
• Stripped Threads
• Rust Damage
• Household Repairs

SteelStik is a hand-mixable, steel-reinforced, non-rusting epoxy putty that quickly repairs or rebuilds anything made of metal. After mixing, it forms an industrial-strength polymer compound that can be molded into shapes or used to build up, patch and repair steel components. SteelStik sets in 3-5 minutes and after 60 minutes, can be drilled, tapped, machined, ground, filed and painted. SteelStik cures to a dark grey color, is rated at a tensile strength of 900 PSI and will withstand temperatures up to 300ºF.
INSTRUCTIONS
Cut: Remove required amount of putty.
Mix: Thoroughly knead putty with fingers to a uniform color.
Apply: Press putty firmly to the surface to be repaired.

* For best results use a detergent or degreaser to first clean the surface, then roughen surface with file or coarse sandpaper to provide the best repair.

jerrysimon

Agreed this is so impressive badmother and thank you SO MUCH for taking the lead and showing us your work with the great detailed pics

I like the idea of using T Nuts. I would definitely glue the block to the head tube as well as the T nuts. My concern with not doing this would be the T nut flanges would tear out or worse still tear the hole in the aluminum head tube. To my mind the solid block seems better than the U piece although as you say you then need to drill it out to accommodate the T nut.

As an aside I assume the welded lugs on the Dahon aluminum frame/head tube are made of aluminum ?





Interesting that this arrangement seems to have all the shearing force on the bolts over the brompton where the mounting block has a cutout that fits over the lug ?

I notice from the Tern web site though that it has a 7kg limit over the Brompton 10kg limit.

Regards

Jerry

BassNotBass

Now that I'll soon have a Brompton as my commuter I was looking into luggage/bag options. I ordered my Brommie with the carrier block but didn't opt for any of the luggage because it's very expensive and being a DIY kinda guy I'm sure I could come up with a cheaper solution that would suit my needs better. My solution was to design and make a front mount bag that could be multi-purposed but would primarily be used with the Brompton front carrier frame. I came across this wonderful idea of how to make a nice clean looking panel that would mount the bag securely to the frame yet would still look good if used for another purpose sans frame. There are several pictures of what a bag looks like on and off the frame... a very slick and clean solution IMHO. In fact it also gives me an idea of how I can make my own frame with a little more bottom bag support than what the Brompton carrier frame provides.

https://www.din.or.jp/~wsho/brompton-e.html

folder fanatic

I always just love these very creative ideas about what to do about carrying your precious possession on a little bikes such as folders are. Though my own ideas involve as little work as I can get away with!

BassNotBass

"Work" is a matter of perspective. When I was self employed I didn't have a great deal of "disposable" income yet I had the time to make things that I felt were too expensive to pay for. Then I worked as an IT contractor and made obscene amounts of money and had quite a bit of disposable income but worked so much I didn't have the time to make things so I just bought them. I have since found a happy medium.

Some people just work hard at what they love doing and get paid well so they can purchase what they don't have the time or inclination to make.

fietsbob

Pencilled out a Modification to my steel Brompton Front rack to extend the load shelf out 9"

and add a place off the bars for a battery headlight.

The building materials and the torch(friend's shop in WA) are distant& shipping hookups.

Or ship it to a bike builder with both..

cpg

Another option is to use riv nuts, the fasteners often used to secure water bottle cages to frames. Available in plated steel, aluminium and stainless. You don't have to use a special tool to compress them but it does help. There is info on the net about using washers and screws to fit them. Don't know what sort of loading they are capable of though.

fietsbob

Mechanically speaking..

Backed up by the fork steerer , there may not be space, behind/inside, the headtube.. to expand the Riv-nut.

flange on the inside is what the T nuts offer, as used.. Riv-nuts used there, require essentially, a backwards installation..

BassNotBass

I'm prepping for the delivery of my Brommie (probably still two weeks away) by planning for baggage options. I ordered my Brommie with the carrier block thinking that I'd fabricate a rack for it but I took the easy way out and ordered a luggage frame instead. Then a friend gave me a great "Skil" canvas power-tool bag to which I sewed some paracord loops so that I could weave it onto the Brommie carrier frame. The bag happened to be just the right size and the top closes like an old fold top medical bag or I can keep it open like the Brompton folding canvas "basket".

This is what it looks like.

smallwheeler

fietsbob

Ive got a Hack using a Messenger bag with a waist belt ..

and pretty much just wove the waist belt through the Bag frame snapped it's buckle shut and it stays on.