Fuji gran tourer 12-speed as a beater/commuter?
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Fuji gran tourer 12-speed as a beater/commuter?
Hey there, this is my first post in the C&V forums, so please let me know if I forgot something important!
I just picked up an old Fuji gran tourer SE 12-speed for pretty cheap. It's a chrome-moly steel frame, large (haven't measured yet), that's been sitting in a shed for about 20 years. The components are covered in rust but the frame's in decent shape... no dents but several large rusty patches. I'm pretty sure that after a good cleaning and greasing it'd work just fine.
My plan for the bike was to use it as a fun fixer-upper project, replacing things and repainting for fun. But I can't find any info on how valuable this model is, and I'd rather not tear it up if it's something nice. Anyone have an idea how much it might be worth?
I just picked up an old Fuji gran tourer SE 12-speed for pretty cheap. It's a chrome-moly steel frame, large (haven't measured yet), that's been sitting in a shed for about 20 years. The components are covered in rust but the frame's in decent shape... no dents but several large rusty patches. I'm pretty sure that after a good cleaning and greasing it'd work just fine.
My plan for the bike was to use it as a fun fixer-upper project, replacing things and repainting for fun. But I can't find any info on how valuable this model is, and I'd rather not tear it up if it's something nice. Anyone have an idea how much it might be worth?
#2
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This is a solid, well made low-to-mid level bike. Nothing wrong with it. It will have a nutted rear axle, but 3-piece alloy crank. I just fixed up one for a friend to ride for fitness. Provided that it fits, it would make an excellent commuter. The downside will be the downtube shifters, if you're uncomfortable with using them.
Others will echo this...the bearing surfaces will need to be disassembled, inspected, cleaned, re-greased, assembled and readjusted for the bike to work properly. This will also prevent damaging wear from riding it in its present condition. Strip and replace all of the cables. Lubricate the moving joints of the derailleurs and brake calipers... Lubricate the freewheel. True the rims and add new rubber throughout (handlebar tape, brake pads, rimstrips, tubes and tires), and you'll be good to go.
If you need help on any of this, ask specific questions as you go. This assumes that you have the needed specialty tools, which can be had for about $100, and we can list them for you if needed.
The value depends on condition. Reconditioned = $200 or so. As it likely sits = $50. Good luck. PG
Others will echo this...the bearing surfaces will need to be disassembled, inspected, cleaned, re-greased, assembled and readjusted for the bike to work properly. This will also prevent damaging wear from riding it in its present condition. Strip and replace all of the cables. Lubricate the moving joints of the derailleurs and brake calipers... Lubricate the freewheel. True the rims and add new rubber throughout (handlebar tape, brake pads, rimstrips, tubes and tires), and you'll be good to go.
If you need help on any of this, ask specific questions as you go. This assumes that you have the needed specialty tools, which can be had for about $100, and we can list them for you if needed.
The value depends on condition. Reconditioned = $200 or so. As it likely sits = $50. Good luck. PG
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I bought one that was the frameset with some extra pieces to build up for my wife and spent way too much on it (even at the mixte premium). I love the look of the cranks with the fuji engraved in them (actually forged and painted, but looking engraved), but the gearing was too high for my wife and with the outer ring being press fit on to the crank and the smaller ring riveted onto the big, I was sad to have to replace it with a more generic set that better fit our purposes.
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Bikes: 1996 Eddy Merckx Titanium EX, 1989/90 Colnago Super(issimo?) Piu(?),
#4
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Go with it. That bike will give you a lot of service. I just passed 2,000 on my '88 Fuji Sagres SP (see link in signature below). My bike is about 95% original. These bikes are suprisingly quick and ride like a Buick.
Last edited by knobd; 08-20-12 at 01:20 PM.
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If everything works just ride it.
#6
Constant tinkerer
It's a low end bike but yes it should be a great beater. Not something you have to worry too much about. For one in good condition I would put it in the low $100 range. I converted a nice one to single-speed, ditched the steel wheels for some nice aluminum wheels, and sold the bike for $150.
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Those bikes were sort of heavy, not as bad as most of the Schwinns sold in that day but not lightweight by any means. But they were reliable, more so then Schwinns of that price range. So if you need a bike for commuting and general fitness then have some fun in fixing it up and making look good, but don't crazy with expensive parts.
The only upgrade I would consider is changing the steel wheels to aluminum to lighten the bike and enable it to stop way faster when the rims are wet. You can get a decent pair of aluminum rims for $200, in fact there is a decent set of 27" wheels on E-Bay that are brand new and the whole set will cost $99 plus shipping; see: https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-27-ROAD-...#ht_4312wt_886 This would be idea for that bike.
I wouldn't convert it to 700c because I have no clue whether or not the brakes can be adjusted to work on 700c rims, if they can't then your face with getting new brake calipers and there goes that cash; so to be safe just stay with 27" wheel size. There are plenty of quality 27" tires available so no worries there.
The only upgrade I would consider is changing the steel wheels to aluminum to lighten the bike and enable it to stop way faster when the rims are wet. You can get a decent pair of aluminum rims for $200, in fact there is a decent set of 27" wheels on E-Bay that are brand new and the whole set will cost $99 plus shipping; see: https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-27-ROAD-...#ht_4312wt_886 This would be idea for that bike.
I wouldn't convert it to 700c because I have no clue whether or not the brakes can be adjusted to work on 700c rims, if they can't then your face with getting new brake calipers and there goes that cash; so to be safe just stay with 27" wheel size. There are plenty of quality 27" tires available so no worries there.
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