Sturmey Archer 3 speed hub chirping + bonus question!
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Sturmey Archer 3 speed hub chirping + bonus question!
I've got a 1968 Robin Hood with a SA 3 spd hub that I'm fixing up for my little sister. It started in pretty rough shape, but after some new parts and a lot of elbow grease I'm nearing the end (or so I think). I took it out for a ride today, and while riding there's a bit of a chirp. It only showed up after about the 1st mile, but once it was there it kept chirping. After searching the forums I decided to try a new set of pedals, just to make sure that wasn't the source. Unfortunately, new pedals did not solve the problem. I did however determine that the chirping would only occur while I was in 3rd gear. This leads me to believe that my chirp must be hub related. Can anyone provide and insight into what it might be and how I would go about fixing it?
As an additional question...Does anyone know where I can locate the plastic ferrule that goes under the cable stay on the down tube? I replaced cables, but the cable I received didn't have a new ferrule. The problem is that sometimes when shifting the change in tension on the cable causes the ferrule to slip through the cable stay. This causes the entire cable to lose tension. I then need to stop, unscrew the cable, reinstall the ferrule and screw the cable back on. Needless to say, this is a pain!
Thanks everyone for all the input and advice.
John
As an additional question...Does anyone know where I can locate the plastic ferrule that goes under the cable stay on the down tube? I replaced cables, but the cable I received didn't have a new ferrule. The problem is that sometimes when shifting the change in tension on the cable causes the ferrule to slip through the cable stay. This causes the entire cable to lose tension. I then need to stop, unscrew the cable, reinstall the ferrule and screw the cable back on. Needless to say, this is a pain!
Thanks everyone for all the input and advice.
John
#2
Banned
3 speed bikes ..
I had the Shift cable running along the top tube to a roller at the top of the seat tube,
and the shifting cable running to the indicator chain.. down the seat stay..
That is the traditional routing.. you don't snag the shift cable with your heel,
pedaling, using that route.
Chirp? IDk , did you add oil into to the inside of the hub, is the chain oiled?
Sight unseen repair advise is shooting in the dark.
I had the Shift cable running along the top tube to a roller at the top of the seat tube,
and the shifting cable running to the indicator chain.. down the seat stay..
That is the traditional routing.. you don't snag the shift cable with your heel,
pedaling, using that route.
Chirp? IDk , did you add oil into to the inside of the hub, is the chain oiled?
Sight unseen repair advise is shooting in the dark.
Last edited by fietsbob; 08-26-12 at 10:53 AM.
#3
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Bonus question first. I think you're looking for the fulcrum sleeve available here (scroll down to cable parts). These used to be made of sintered metal and last forever, but sometime in the sixties they went to plastic. You have to use these 2 part clips with pre-assembled cannot be threaded through the typical clips used for derailleur cables.
As for the chirp, start with the obvious, and squire a drop of oil into the hub. If that doesn't solve it, another likely cause is a bit of play in the bearing adjustment. The play can allow the right end to shift slightly at higher chain tension so the right dust cap rubs. There could be other issues, but that would be a good place to start.
As for the chirp, start with the obvious, and squire a drop of oil into the hub. If that doesn't solve it, another likely cause is a bit of play in the bearing adjustment. The play can allow the right end to shift slightly at higher chain tension so the right dust cap rubs. There could be other issues, but that would be a good place to start.
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FB
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#4
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3 speed bikes ..
I had the Shift cable running along the top tube to a roller at the top of the seat tube,
and the shifting cable running to the indicator chain.. down the seat stay..
That is the traditional routing.. you don't snag the shift cable with your heel,
pedaling, using that route.
I had the Shift cable running along the top tube to a roller at the top of the seat tube,
and the shifting cable running to the indicator chain.. down the seat stay..
That is the traditional routing.. you don't snag the shift cable with your heel,
pedaling, using that route.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#6
Mechanic/Tourist
If FB's suggestion of lubrication and bearing adjustment don't resolve the issue just overhaul the hub. I will tell you as an "old fashioned mechanic" myself can tell you it's really not that big a deal, and that's all that a mechanic would do. Here's an excellent run-through of the procedure, by a Brit no less.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ea6krXSs-lc
The only specialized tool required is a cone wrench. Pretty much the only thing left out of the video is putting grease in the outer bearings.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ea6krXSs-lc
The only specialized tool required is a cone wrench. Pretty much the only thing left out of the video is putting grease in the outer bearings.
Last edited by cny-bikeman; 08-26-12 at 08:08 PM.
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I agree with lube . It sitting up for awhile may be the cause. I would add lube , ignore, & ride it for awhile, to see if it quietens, before taking anything apart.
#8
Count Orlok Member
3 speed bikes ..
I had the Shift cable running along the top tube to a roller at the top of the seat tube,
and the shifting cable running to the indicator chain.. down the seat stay..
That is the traditional routing.. you don't snag the shift cable with your heel,
pedaling, using that route.
I had the Shift cable running along the top tube to a roller at the top of the seat tube,
and the shifting cable running to the indicator chain.. down the seat stay..
That is the traditional routing.. you don't snag the shift cable with your heel,
pedaling, using that route.
Chirp? IDk , did you add oil into to the inside of the hub, is the chain oiled?
As far as ferrules, you can get metal ferrules and cable pulleys from here.
If that's too rich, I occasionally come across steel or aluminum ferrules at the bike recycler/ bike coop.
Last edited by gna; 08-27-12 at 12:34 PM.
#9
Banned
well there is the 2 pulley option too .. also seat post fitted, is some use
for the rear brake cable routing, on step thru frames and centerpull brakes..
Inverted bottom pulled, side-pull brakes cable housing offers a place in the housing
for water to gather, and stay..
[V brake cable bellows do become useful then, to slow down rainwater getting in]
for the rear brake cable routing, on step thru frames and centerpull brakes..
Inverted bottom pulled, side-pull brakes cable housing offers a place in the housing
for water to gather, and stay..
[V brake cable bellows do become useful then, to slow down rainwater getting in]
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