Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Bicycle Mechanics
Reload this Page >

Another squealer here..

Search
Notices
Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

Another squealer here..

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 09-19-12, 12:04 AM
  #1  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 160
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 15 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Another squealer here..

I've read some threads on here about brake squeal, and know about getting better pads, toe in, etc.

Just got new canti brakes, and sure enough, the front one squeals. I'm gonna try the above suggestions for sure, but I was also wondering...

I'm pretty sure it's because I have more mechanical advantage here than I need; the brake really "bites" the rim. I can feel the pads squishing in there with modest effort, and it's stop-slide, stop-slide...thus the squeaks. Would raising the yoke make a difference? I would think that it would.

Also, my brakes have the z-link things and not the traditional yoke wires. These come in longer lengths, but does anybody know how they are measured so I know what to order?


Thanks
bike-izle is offline  
Old 09-19-12, 01:30 AM
  #2  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: England, currently dividing my time between university in Guildford and home just outside Reading
Posts: 1,921

Bikes: Too many to list here!

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times in 2 Posts
Unless you've already got too much braking power, I doubt reducing the mechanical advantage of the brake will help with the squealing, seeing as you'll still need to press the brake pads against the rim with the same force as before to get the same braking force. You'll just have to pull the lever harder to stop as quickly as you currently do.
Airburst is offline  
Old 09-19-12, 06:25 AM
  #3  
Senior Member
 
dsbrantjr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Roswell, GA
Posts: 8,319

Bikes: '93 Trek 750, '92 Schwinn Crisscross, '93 Mongoose Alta

Mentioned: 30 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1438 Post(s)
Liked 1,092 Times in 723 Posts
Get rid of the "Z-link things" and get some regular straddle wires; they allow more adjustability without having to guess the right length. I find that the brakes work better with a lower rather than higher wire setting. Also, if you don't have a fork-mounted cable hanger I would strongly suggest that you get one; it will likely take care of your problem. I like the Specialized Tricross Front Brake Hanger but there are others which work as well.

I have found that the Problem Solvers Wide Cable Hanger works well with the regular straddle wires: https://problemsolversbike.com/produc...cable_carrier/

Last edited by dsbrantjr; 09-19-12 at 06:48 AM. Reason: add wide hanger comment
dsbrantjr is offline  
Old 09-19-12, 06:47 AM
  #4  
Senior Member
 
juggleaddict's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 866

Bikes: LHT

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Unfortunately it's not all that simple Airburst.

Raising the yoke should help, but just be sure you can still clamp your front wheel down if you need to. Squealing is better than a broken bike.

just be sure to back it off in small increments (yes it's a pain to adjust) until you just stop squealing. You can also try a horse-shoe style brake helper to add some rigidity, but they're heavy and may not fix the problem.

Then you can always ride with the squeal : ) let em know you're comin!
juggleaddict is offline  
Old 09-19-12, 06:54 AM
  #5  
Senior Member
 
rumrunn6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: 25 miles northwest of Boston
Posts: 29,546

Bikes: Bottecchia Sprint, GT Timberline 29r, Marin Muirwoods 29er, Trek FX Alpha 7.0

Mentioned: 112 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5223 Post(s)
Liked 3,579 Times in 2,341 Posts
shouldn't first fix attempt for brake squeal be toe-in?
rumrunn6 is offline  
Old 09-19-12, 07:39 PM
  #6  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: SoCal
Posts: 371

Bikes: 1983 Trek 620, 2010 Roubaix

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Originally Posted by rumrunn6
shouldn't first fix attempt for brake squeal be toe-in?
I would think so. The OP mentions toe in so I presume he is aware of how it can affect squeal.

FWIW I sometimes get squeal if the calipers aren't cantered on the rim during light braking. Dunno if that applies to cantilevers, but it is easy and cheap to check...
Hendo252 is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
bonsai171
Mountain Biking
3
09-18-18 08:24 PM
meanwhile
Cyclocross and Gravelbiking (Recreational)
51
10-22-13 12:11 AM
meanwhile
Cyclocross and Gravelbiking (Recreational)
26
04-23-13 05:11 AM
SurlyLaika
Bicycle Mechanics
13
02-28-11 03:44 PM

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.