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Who really likes 50-34?

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Old 05-21-13, 06:10 PM
  #101  
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Originally Posted by Bandera
Except when the battery is dead.

"I'm sorry, I can't go for a bike ride with you because my shifter-thingy battery is dead and I'm waiting on the Fed-Ex guy w/ a new one.
Do they come pre-charged?"

Sorry (not really).

-Bandera

The Pro Tour teams at the Giro charge the batteries once in the whole race. I don't think it would ever exclude anyone from riding.
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Old 05-21-13, 06:15 PM
  #102  
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Originally Posted by aramis
He doesn't know what he's talking about. You can actually adjust it while riding the bike if you want w/ DI2. On my ultegra DI2, just hold a button down on the junction box by the handlebars until a light turns red (about 2 seconds) on and then use the shifters to adjust the derailleur in or out (like a barrel adjuster). When you're done, hold the button again for a few seconds until the light goes off and continue riding. If he doesn't want to look up a simple procedure on how to adjust his bike it's his fault, not the DI2.
I was thinking the exact same thing. Don't give di2 a bad wrap just because the guy didn't take the time to watch a minute long youtube video to learn how to adjust it.

Unfortunately I have ridden with way too many people that don't know how to use a barrel adjuster. I guess that means that cables are crap.
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Old 05-21-13, 06:44 PM
  #103  
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I've noticed a difference in the two main locations I ride.

50/34 with 11-28:
Works fine in Hong Kong where everything is pretty much up or down, or racing in the big ring.

50/36 with 11-28:
Seems better in Australia where there is more flat, longer and less steep hills, but I'm still climbing some monsters to want that 28.
The set up with the 34 left me hunting for the right gear at times at moderate speeds on low gradients - I'd get stuck in this zone for 20km+. Was annoying.
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Old 05-21-13, 06:58 PM
  #104  
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Originally Posted by aramis
He doesn't know what he's talking about. You can actually adjust it while riding the bike if you want w/ DI2. On my ultegra DI2, just hold a button down on the junction box by the handlebars until a light turns red (about 2 seconds) on and then use the shifters to adjust the derailleur in or out (like a barrel adjuster). When you're done, hold the button again for a few seconds until the light goes off and continue riding. If he doesn't want to look up a simple procedure on how to adjust his bike it's his fault, not the DI2.
This makes more sense. I was wondering what the hell kind of system doesn't allow any kind of fine tuning.

Originally Posted by aramis
Other nice thing about DI2 is if it does fail it will stay in whatever gear you're in. So if you know your battery is about to die you can put it in a gear that will let you get home, vs mechanical you end up in the smallest gear if the cable breaks.
The limit screws are useful. You can also secure the cable somewhere other than the shifter since the most common failure is at the head and adjust tension for whatever gear you want. Obviously, changing gears is awkward.

My guess is that running out of juice is a rare mistake with Di2. My bigger worry would be messing it up from debris or falling. I originally was concerned about reliability in slop but reports I've heard is that's not an issue.
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Old 05-21-13, 07:17 PM
  #105  
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I live in area with a reasonable amount of hills at 14-20% grade, I like the compact 50/34 combo with the 11-28 rear. I will be in the market for the SRAM True-22 with the 11-32 rear when it comes out. Not because 34/28 is not good enough, but the true 22 would give me an option to stay in the large ring longer. Hmm, maybe I should consider a Rohloff hub on my next bike.
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Old 05-21-13, 07:29 PM
  #106  
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Originally Posted by NathanC
The Pro Tour teams at the Giro charge the batteries once in the whole race. I don't think it would ever exclude anyone from riding.
Nathan,

A battery charge should never keep one from riding a bicycle, in fact I'm charging the battery on my headlight before I ride my town bike to the 7-11 for a six pack of Shiner Bock to go with the pork roast. Safety first.

But this: "They had an article about the Blanco mechanics at the Giro.. they swap out batteries with charged ones when they blink at 50%.. funny"

That is a laugh, nice that they swap those batteries, it must be part of their job. Sure the had had nothing else to do.
But, who are "They"? Now I'm (not) confused.

I'd have those Blanco mechanics swap all of my batteries if they'd not miss the 1953 Willys in the back 40 because it does not blink. Good thing Blanco is just a county away.

-Bandera

Last edited by Bandera; 05-21-13 at 07:50 PM. Reason: editing
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Old 05-21-13, 07:57 PM
  #107  
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so why is it widely regarded that stronger riders use 52 and more average riders use 50? Unless you're going steep down hill with 52/12 vs 50/12, how else would it matter?
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Old 05-21-13, 07:57 PM
  #108  
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Originally Posted by Bandera
"Not one has completely died without warning." Come on now..what about your Casio watch, TV remote, X-Box or 9.5V drill?

Not to belabor the point but: Modern Mechanical bicycle shifting systems are currently inherently more reliable than Electronic systems.

Your E-system depends on "tiny mechanical parts", glad you keep it charged, really I am.

And what's a "Garmin"?

Back to Compact Cranks vs Godzilla.

-Bandera
I've never used a wristwatch. My TV remote starts getting weak before it dies. My Xbox controller warns me. Battery powered drills get weak before they die. What part of this is dying without warning?

If you want to claim the mechanical systems are more reliable, please provide data. I'm sure you have it.

And feigned ignorance doesn't make you sound convincing.
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Old 05-21-13, 08:18 PM
  #109  
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As a veteran of 53/42, I found the cadence jump of 53/39 annoying but tolerable. But 50/34 is beyond the pall; when I drop to the little ring I find myself triple-shifting the rear just so I don't lose all my momentum. 50/36 would be so much better--that would be just a double-shift.
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Old 05-21-13, 08:25 PM
  #110  
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Originally Posted by oldbobcat
As a veteran of 53/42, I found the cadence jump of 53/39 annoying but tolerable. But 50/34 is beyond the pall; when I drop to the little ring I find myself triple-shifting the rear just so I don't lose all my momentum. 50/36 would be so much better--that would be just a double-shift.
I do agree that 50/36 is much better than 50/34. That's what I run now, and I think it makes much more sense than 50/34. I wish it were, you know, popular in the OEM market, at all.
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Old 05-21-13, 08:25 PM
  #111  
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Oh, and in the 53/42 days, were 650c wheels more common? That'd change effective gearing quite a bit.
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Old 05-21-13, 08:26 PM
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Originally Posted by spectastic
so why is it widely regarded that stronger riders use 52 and more average riders use 50? Unless you're going steep down hill with 52/12 vs 50/12, how else would it matter?
It isn't. There's only 4% difference between a 52 and 50.

There are many riders who feel they might be regarded as weak or a ***** for riding a compact, but then they spend most of their time riding in the little ring. There is zero correlation between your chainrings and power.
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Old 05-21-13, 08:26 PM
  #113  
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Originally Posted by Bah Humbug
I've never used a wristwatch. My TV remote starts getting weak before it dies. My Xbox controller warns me. Battery powered drills get weak before they die. What part of this is dying without warning?

If you want to claim the mechanical systems are more reliable, please provide data. I'm sure you have it.

And feigned ignorance doesn't make you sound convincing.
Bah,

Let's keep this really simple before we return to Compact vs. Triple vs. Fixed and I can enjoy that pork roast.

Is a modern mechanical bicycle shifting system vs. a modern E-shift system more or less reliable?

As an analogy if you are climbing that really nasty grade 50 miles from home and your E-system is "getting weak" or "warning me" before it dies, and it will, more reliable than a mechanical system that just does not ever just "Die". Don't even think to tell me that batteries don't "just do that" regardless of how well tended. That would fly in the face of all of our experience with a plethora of devices.
Even Boeing is having serious problems w/ battery operated systems, how's that feigned?

-Bandera

Last edited by Bandera; 05-21-13 at 08:32 PM. Reason: editing
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Old 05-21-13, 08:27 PM
  #114  
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Originally Posted by oldbobcat
As a veteran of 53/42, I found the cadence jump of 53/39 annoying but tolerable. But 50/34 is beyond the pall; when I drop to the little ring I find myself triple-shifting the rear just so I don't lose all my momentum. 50/36 would be so much better--that would be just a double-shift.
Switch to campy and it's not an issue
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Old 05-21-13, 08:32 PM
  #115  
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Originally Posted by Bandera
Bah,

Let's keep this really simple before we return to Compact vs. Triple vs. Fixed and I can enjoy that pork roast.

Is a modern mechanical bicycle shifting system vs. a modern E-shift system more or less reliable?

As an analogy if you are climbing that really nasty grade 50 miles from home and your E-system is "getting weak" or "warning me" before it dies, and it will, more reliable than a mechanical system that just does not ever just "Die". Don't even think to tell me that batteries don't "just do that" regardless of how well tended. That would be fly in the face of all of our experience with a plethora of devices.
Even Boeing is having serious problems w/ battery operated systems, how's that feigned?

-Bandera
My coach snapped a FD cable on a hilly ride. Don't even think to tell me cables don't "just do that".

Do you let every battery you have die before you recharge it, or do you plug them in at consistent intervals so that they always have power when you need it?
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Old 05-21-13, 08:34 PM
  #116  
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Originally Posted by Bandera
Nathan,

A battery charge should never keep one from riding a bicycle, in fact I'm charging the battery on my headlight before I ride my town bike to the 7-11 for a six pack of Shiner Bock to go with the pork roast. Safety first.

But this: "They had an article about the Blanco mechanics at the Giro.. they swap out batteries with charged ones when they blink at 50%.. funny"

That is a laugh, nice that they swap those batteries, it must be part of their job. Sure the had had nothing else to do.
But, who are "They"? Now I'm (not) confused.

I'd have those Blanco mechanics swap all of my batteries if they'd not miss the 1953 Willys in the back 40 because it does not blink. Good thing Blanco is just a county away.

-Bandera
https://velonews.competitor.com/2013/...he-giro_287867 pic 13

Blanco aka former Rabobank pro team not going to find them in TX sorry

EVERY day the bikes get washed and re-lubed, so they would notice. On rest days they also put on new chains, brake cables, bar tape,brake pads and they also check every bolt too. it is their job and they have a LOT to do.


It is an easy thing to monitor and deal with.. you fill up your car with gas.. tires with air.. fridge with food.. etc
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Old 05-21-13, 08:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Bandera
Is a modern mechanical bicycle shifting system vs. a modern E-shift system more or less reliable?
It's a non-issue for either system as the reliability is very high. Maybe your electronic system fails once every few years or your brake a cable once in a while. It's not the end of the world in either case.

The same logic applies to 10 and 11 speed systems. They're not as strong or durable as 6 and 7 speed but the benefits outweigh the modest penalty in durability for most people.
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Old 05-21-13, 09:08 PM
  #118  
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Originally Posted by Bah Humbug
My coach snapped a FD cable on a hilly ride. Don't even think to tell me cables don't "just do that".

Do you let every battery you have die before you recharge it, or do you plug them in at consistent intervals so that they always have power when you need it?
Your coach needed a real mechanic, and proper maintenance. It's just not that difficult, see above.

Let me check my remote oven probe, toothbrushes, flashlights, GDO controllers, auto key fobs, motorcycle fob, TV remotes, cable box controllers, DVD controllers, telephones, iPad, iPhone, laptops, iPods, Bluetooth earpiece, stick blender, external hard drivers, thumb drives and something else I forgot to charge (like a DI2 battery) and I'll get back to you on that.

-Bandera
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Old 05-21-13, 09:11 PM
  #119  
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Originally Posted by Bandera
Your coach needed a real mechanic, and proper maintenance. It's just not that difficult, see above.

Let me check my remote oven probe, toothbrushes, flashlights, GDO controllers, auto key fobs, motorcycle fob, TV remotes, cable box controllers, DVD controllers, telephones, iPad, iPhone, laptops, iPods, Bluetooth earpiece, stick blender, external hard drivers, thumb drives and something else I forgot to charge (like a DI2 battery) and I'll get back to you on that.

-Bandera
Uh, you realize that some of those don't have batteries, right?
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Old 05-21-13, 09:18 PM
  #120  
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Originally Posted by Jakedatc
[URL]Blanco aka former Rabobank pro team not going to find them in TX sorry

EVERY day the bikes get washed and re-lubed, so they would notice. On rest days they also put on new chains, brake cables, bar tape,brake pads and they also check every bolt too. it is their job and they have a LOT to do.
Damn, sounds like just what I need if they did lawn care too.

And Blanco is such a fine Hill Country town......maybe they will relocate?

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blanco,_Texas

-Bandera
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Old 05-21-13, 09:20 PM
  #121  
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Originally Posted by Bah Humbug
Uh, you realize that some of those don't have batteries, right?
Wasting my time yet again, like trying to wind that Rolex?

-Bandera
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Old 05-21-13, 09:24 PM
  #122  
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Originally Posted by Bandera
Wasting my time yet again, like trying to wind that Rolex?

-Bandera
Do you have a thumb drive with a battery? Because I've never seen one.
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Old 05-21-13, 10:13 PM
  #123  
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Originally Posted by Jakedatc
99klein has been against compacts even before he tried one and put on a stupid combo for his area so that he would hate it. nothing new there
The "stupid combo" came stock from Cannonadle and had nothing to do with me. I was worried about loosing two teeth on the top and never gave the small ring any thought before trying it. I could live with the big ring, small ring is useless. ..probably why you all ride in the big ring most of the time.

I'm never afraid to try something new. If you don't learn something new every day you're not trying. I'm also not ashamed to admit when I'm wrong.

We should probably all drive the same car as you too.

Sorry I don't like your Kool aid.
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Old 05-21-13, 10:16 PM
  #124  
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Originally Posted by Bah Humbug
Oh, and in the 53/42 days, were 650c wheels more common? That'd change effective gearing quite a bit.
Maybe in some circles where obscure rims and tires could be conjured up in seances. In mine it was strictly 700c tubulars, with 13-20, 13-21, or 13-22 freewheels, depending on what we were planning to climb. I'm a lot slower now.

Here's what I like about 50-36. With a 11-23 it's the same as a 53-39 with a 12-25. Wtih an 11-25 it's the same as a 53-39 with a 12-27. And with an 11-28, I'd be able to go just about anywhere there's a road. I haven't used it yet because my chain's too short. (Stupid Trek.) After I wear out this chain I'll start exploring. But this is why I like compact cranks.
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Old 05-21-13, 11:19 PM
  #125  
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I can see how 52 might be better for a down the wind sprint at 35 mph. But it's probably easier to just get a 11-28 on the rear. same thing, right?
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