135mm hub in a 150mm space
02-20-05 | 05:34 PM
#1
Thread Starter
2 wheels R better than 4
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 38
Likes: 0
From: Wonder Lake, IL
135mm hub in a 150mm space
Hi Everyone!
OK all you techies out there. I have been trying to find a 150mm 3-speed hub for
our 2000 Vision VR-85. After a year of searching and advise from some LBSs,
there is no such animal. However, a 135mm 3-speed hub is available from Shimano
and Sachs and will work with a 12-34 mounted on them.
My questions are:
1. Can I have a wheel built with a 135mm hub and tighten the snot out of it, drawing the chainstays in?
A club member did this and has had no problems with over 10k miles of loaded
touring on it. Last year, I was leery of over-tightening (squeezing) the
chainstays for fear of failing the structural integrity or placing washers on
the axle to make up the space.
2. Should I add a indexable bar end shifter for the 3-speed or is it better to
have all my shifting integrated with my brakes as they are now? I have Magura
hydraulic brakes on XT rapid fire shifters. I know that there is a set-up that
will accept hydraulic brakes, 3 speed front der., 9 speed rear der., and a
3-speed hub.
As I mentioned, a club member has this set-up on his Vision. He has a 3rd or 4th
generation frame. I originally thought that older Vision tandem frames were a
different width dimension between the chainstays. I don't agree with the
squeezing of the chainstays but it apparently works. It's only 7.5mm per side.
OK all you techies out there. I have been trying to find a 150mm 3-speed hub for
our 2000 Vision VR-85. After a year of searching and advise from some LBSs,
there is no such animal. However, a 135mm 3-speed hub is available from Shimano
and Sachs and will work with a 12-34 mounted on them.
My questions are:
1. Can I have a wheel built with a 135mm hub and tighten the snot out of it, drawing the chainstays in?
A club member did this and has had no problems with over 10k miles of loaded
touring on it. Last year, I was leery of over-tightening (squeezing) the
chainstays for fear of failing the structural integrity or placing washers on
the axle to make up the space.
2. Should I add a indexable bar end shifter for the 3-speed or is it better to
have all my shifting integrated with my brakes as they are now? I have Magura
hydraulic brakes on XT rapid fire shifters. I know that there is a set-up that
will accept hydraulic brakes, 3 speed front der., 9 speed rear der., and a
3-speed hub.
As I mentioned, a club member has this set-up on his Vision. He has a 3rd or 4th
generation frame. I originally thought that older Vision tandem frames were a
different width dimension between the chainstays. I don't agree with the
squeezing of the chainstays but it apparently works. It's only 7.5mm per side.
02-20-05 | 08:18 PM
#2
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 30,225
Likes: 650
From: St Peters, Missouri
Bikes: Catrike 559 I own some others but they don't get ridden very much.
Why don't you contact Rolf at the Chalet Shoppe or whatever he calls the recumbent shop in Stevens' Point Wisconsin? He's the most knowledgable person I've met regarding recumbent tandems, internal hubs and the like.
02-22-05 | 12:33 AM
#3
I couldn't car less.
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 4,397
Likes: 0
Bikes: Ritchey P-series prototype, Diamondback, Nishiki Triathelon Pro.
I would use the spacers, the ones on my bile don't look like washers per-se, thick things.
I don't know if I can help..I believe the 150 spacing is to add strength to the wheel.
I have a tandem spaced axle in my mtb, 140mm dropouts.
I'e asked a little and it seemed that it's a wheel issue, not frame.
I would not bend my 140 drops, I have clamped 135's to take a wheel into the shop.
I think a pro looking at it - 7.5 is a lot.
Your chainline would move 7.5 mm inwards? Anyway seems a wheel dish and spacer deal, or you are weakening the wheel.
like I said, not much help.
I don't know if I can help..I believe the 150 spacing is to add strength to the wheel.
I have a tandem spaced axle in my mtb, 140mm dropouts.
I'e asked a little and it seemed that it's a wheel issue, not frame.
I would not bend my 140 drops, I have clamped 135's to take a wheel into the shop.
I think a pro looking at it - 7.5 is a lot.
Your chainline would move 7.5 mm inwards? Anyway seems a wheel dish and spacer deal, or you are weakening the wheel.
like I said, not much help.
Last edited by jeff williams; 02-22-05 at 10:39 AM.
02-22-05 | 07:58 AM
#4
Banned.
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 4,020
Likes: 1
From: Towson, MD
Bikes: 2001 Look KG 241, 1989 Specialized Stump Jumper Comp, 1986 Gatane Performanc
I am guessing the 3 speed hub has a solid, threaded axle? If a extra-long axle can be purchased, then you could add shims and space it out to 150mm.
Is the frame steel? If so, you could have the rear cold-set to 135 mm.
Is the frame steel? If so, you could have the rear cold-set to 135 mm.
