Rail Trail/Urban riding Bike Set-up
#26
aka Phil Jungels
Yes, they are 700C, and 18 wide Alex Adventurer, 36 spokers. Rim Brakes. I like 9 spd, because it's so much cheaper to maintain/replace parts on a 9 spd. There is a big jump in prices with a 10 spd. I also like the triple, just gives me more options to find the perfect gear.
#27
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 23
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Is the 20mm inside or exterior width? I've found a set of wheels that I like that are 24mm exterior & 18 mm interior width.
#28
Full Member
#29
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: NJ cellphone central
Posts: 468
Bikes: Surly Ogre // (old and gone) Cannondale ST400, Rockhopper Sport
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I've recently run DT TK-540 rims (23mm) with 40mm Schwalbe Marathon Mondial tires and also, because my frame can fit them, I'm now running Sun MTX 33mm rims with 60mm (2.35") Schwalbe Big Apple tires. For paths and trails, doing my general 13-17mph cruising on mostly flat, I totally love the giant 60mm tires. They roll very smoothly and actually are faster than my 40mm setup was as well.
It all depends on what you want from the ride. For a cross frame depending on which one you have, you can run pretty fat, high volume balloon slicks, things like the narrower Big Apples, or the Big Bens if you want a bit more bite to the tread. They are comfortable, puncture resistant and roll nicely. They are not however "fast".
Skinnier tires are generally lighter, can spin up faster and depending on the tread can be faster but they will beat you up over rough surfaces and slide around on loose surfaces compared to the bigger/fatter tires. You'll generally be more capable of higher speeds with your head down on skinnier/lighter wheels and tires.
I found I like the comfort and the planted stability of the big tires quite a lot for my general riding. More than I ever anticipated.
It all depends on what you want from the ride. For a cross frame depending on which one you have, you can run pretty fat, high volume balloon slicks, things like the narrower Big Apples, or the Big Bens if you want a bit more bite to the tread. They are comfortable, puncture resistant and roll nicely. They are not however "fast".
Skinnier tires are generally lighter, can spin up faster and depending on the tread can be faster but they will beat you up over rough surfaces and slide around on loose surfaces compared to the bigger/fatter tires. You'll generally be more capable of higher speeds with your head down on skinnier/lighter wheels and tires.
I found I like the comfort and the planted stability of the big tires quite a lot for my general riding. More than I ever anticipated.
#30
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 23
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Ok all...he build is starting to come along. I've been able to get a lot of parts from an XC bike which is really going to help the budget. These parts include brake levers, mechanical disc brakes, flat bar handlebars with a rise, trigger shifters, brooks saddle, suspension seat post. I've also gotten a set of used Pacenti SL23 700C wheel sets and put 35's on those. And for the drive train I bought new front crank (48-36-26) and rear 9 speed cassette. But, I need to get front and rear derailleurs. Open to choices and opinions on any and would like to hear from y'all on what's out there and what might work well for this build.
#31
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 23
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I have not gotten a front derailleur yet and really need some help finding one that will work. Because of the chain ring size (48-36-26), do I need to go with a road front derailleur? I'm finding very few 9 speed triple front derailleurs that will do 48T chainring.
#32
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Broad Brook CT
Posts: 549
Bikes: jamis 2002 komodo, univega aplina uno, miele toscana 300, 1972 puch brigadier, Marin Sausalito
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 17 Times
in
12 Posts
Since you are considering disc brakes, be aware most cross frames are spaced for 130mm rear wheel hubs and mtb frames are spaced for 135mm hubs. The 130 hubs are a big $ item compared to the mtb 135 hub.
#33
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Broad Brook CT
Posts: 549
Bikes: jamis 2002 komodo, univega aplina uno, miele toscana 300, 1972 puch brigadier, Marin Sausalito
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 17 Times
in
12 Posts
to select a front dérailleur check the shimano tech docs. you can select road or mtb, the level of hardware then check for the fd that matches your largest chain ring. not many road bike units will work with flat bars, so you will get the most hits in mtb.
#34
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 23
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Actually, I was concerned with the frame size issue when I got my wheel sets. The frame spec'd 130mm and the rear hub is a 135. The frame actually measured 133mm and when I tried the wheel, it slid right in! I'll follow your suggestion to check out the specs and see if I can find something. The build is basically done with the exception of the front derailleur. Thanks. Open to anything else on this front D thing!
#35
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Broad Brook CT
Posts: 549
Bikes: jamis 2002 komodo, univega aplina uno, miele toscana 300, 1972 puch brigadier, Marin Sausalito
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 17 Times
in
12 Posts
when you get to the tech docs page, try mtb>deore>fd-m591>the si file. that will give you an idea to search the data.
#36
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 23
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I've checked out the tech page and that is a help to figure out what I want. Thanks...I have a SRAM X9 rear derailleur so I'd like to find SRAM for the front...not too confident though.
#37
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Broad Brook CT
Posts: 549
Bikes: jamis 2002 komodo, univega aplina uno, miele toscana 300, 1972 puch brigadier, Marin Sausalito
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 17 Times
in
12 Posts
there 44 and 48t versions.
https://www.sram.com/sram/mountain/pr...ont-derailleur
https://www.sram.com/sram/mountain/pr...ont-derailleur
#38
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 23
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
there 44 and 48t versions.
https://www.sram.com/sram/mountain/pr...ont-derailleur
https://www.sram.com/sram/mountain/pr...ont-derailleur
#39
Banned
700 x 32c compares to a 1-1/4" width. Yes? I see that size often. Is it the norm?
or so 35, 37, also possible ..
on Hybrids, touring bikes commuters, 'cross' bikes and so forth.. It is a newer common size.
#41
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 23
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Ok...build is done. Been done for a while. It's awesome. Went with the M770 front derailleur. It works well, but I have a clearance issue between the derailleur mechanism and the rear tire. It's only a half inch. It's a little tighter than I'm comfortable with. So, can someone recommend a front derailleur that will provide more clearance between the tire and clamp/ mechanism? The caseete is a 9 speed and the crank is 3 rings (48-36-26).
#43
The Improbable Bulk
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Wilkes-Barre, PA
Posts: 8,379
Bikes: Many
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 7 Times
in
7 Posts
I concur. A half inch is as good as a mile for the type of riding you do.
However, if you are really set on increasing the spacing, you would probably be looking at going with a longer spindle on your BB (I didn't read through the whole thread, so I am not sure if it is possibly with your configuration) and readjusting the FD (assuming it has enough reach). My gut feel is that all derailleurs capable of shifting to your inner ring on a triple would have similar clearance, so adjusting everything (and impacting Q factor) is the only option I see.
However, if you are really set on increasing the spacing, you would probably be looking at going with a longer spindle on your BB (I didn't read through the whole thread, so I am not sure if it is possibly with your configuration) and readjusting the FD (assuming it has enough reach). My gut feel is that all derailleurs capable of shifting to your inner ring on a triple would have similar clearance, so adjusting everything (and impacting Q factor) is the only option I see.
__________________
Slow Ride Cyclists of NEPA
People do not seem to realize that their opinion of the world is also a confession of character.
- Ralph Waldo Emerson
Slow Ride Cyclists of NEPA
People do not seem to realize that their opinion of the world is also a confession of character.
- Ralph Waldo Emerson
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
corwin1968
Bicycle Mechanics
0
03-03-12 07:54 AM