Need Help from road bike experts .
09-08-13, 12:30 PM
#1
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Need Help from road bike experts .
Hi all road bike experts,
Im 1.7m age 45 while newbie here.
i been riding Mtb for few years and currently interested in going for road bike. Due to body joint cannot take againt falled. My budget is aroung $3000 to $3600. Carcon or Aulminum is fine with me. Here are few model in my wish list:-
1) Trek speed concept 2.5 -2013
2) Cannondale Slice 4 - 2011
3) Cervelo S2 - 2010
4) Specialized Transition -2011
Thanks for your valuable time to share your view and advise.
Im 1.7m age 45 while newbie here.
i been riding Mtb for few years and currently interested in going for road bike. Due to body joint cannot take againt falled. My budget is aroung $3000 to $3600. Carcon or Aulminum is fine with me. Here are few model in my wish list:-
1) Trek speed concept 2.5 -2013
2) Cannondale Slice 4 - 2011
3) Cervelo S2 - 2010
4) Specialized Transition -2011
Thanks for your valuable time to share your view and advise.
09-09-13, 12:32 PM
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Eddie-
Those are all excellent triathlon/time trial bikes. But, a tri/tt bike would be a HUGE change from a MTB. Tri/tt bikes have the most aggressive, leaned-over, aerodynamic rider position of any bike. That's why they're so fast. They're also not very comfortable, especially to a rider unused to that aggressive position.
Before you spend $3k on a tri/tt bike, you should consider what type of riding you're looking to do. If it's Tri racing, then you're on the right track already. If it's semi-fast (15-20mph) road and paved trail riding/commuting, then a "standard" road bike would probably be better for you. Like the Trek Pilot and Madone series, or Specialized Allez, Roubaix, or Tarmac.
However, you may be better served buying an older, used road bike from your local shop or from Craigslist.
Advantages of an older bike:
Cheaper -- though include the $150-$200 or so for your local shop to tune it up, and replace the chain, tubes, and tires. Buy cheaper bikes until you're sure what you want to spend that $3k on.
Easier to adjust -- threaded headsets (old-style quill adjuster) can raise or lower the handlebars easily, which is the most important sizing adjustment after frame size (don't buy a bike that's too small or too big) and seat height. Modern threadless headsets can be adjusted at the shop by adding/subtracting spacers; but most shops cut off the steerer tube too low already. Don't buy a bike with a cut off steerer tube.
Universal parts -- Most bikes made in the 80s and 90s used components that were easily interchanged (except the French. Stay away from old French bikes). You could mix Campy shifters with Simplex derailers and Shimano cogs. No prob. Component groups have become more specialized and exclusive over time. This helps them work perfectly, but only with matching parts.
There are many, many options besides Tri bikes. Go ride as many bikes as you can. New, used. Tri, road, cross, hybrid, commuter, touring. Steel, aluminum, carbon, titanium. Drop handlebars, flat bars, upright bars. Find one that feels right, and then customize it until it feels perfect!
And don't be too influenced by any one bicycle subculture. Carbon is great. Steel is great. Casual clothes work great, so does spandex. Have an open attitude so you can find what works best for you. Then get on it and ride!
A great post about bicyclist prejudices: https://surlybikes.com/blog/post/some..._ive_ever_read
Those are all excellent triathlon/time trial bikes. But, a tri/tt bike would be a HUGE change from a MTB. Tri/tt bikes have the most aggressive, leaned-over, aerodynamic rider position of any bike. That's why they're so fast. They're also not very comfortable, especially to a rider unused to that aggressive position.
Before you spend $3k on a tri/tt bike, you should consider what type of riding you're looking to do. If it's Tri racing, then you're on the right track already. If it's semi-fast (15-20mph) road and paved trail riding/commuting, then a "standard" road bike would probably be better for you. Like the Trek Pilot and Madone series, or Specialized Allez, Roubaix, or Tarmac.
However, you may be better served buying an older, used road bike from your local shop or from Craigslist.
Advantages of an older bike:
Cheaper -- though include the $150-$200 or so for your local shop to tune it up, and replace the chain, tubes, and tires. Buy cheaper bikes until you're sure what you want to spend that $3k on.
Easier to adjust -- threaded headsets (old-style quill adjuster) can raise or lower the handlebars easily, which is the most important sizing adjustment after frame size (don't buy a bike that's too small or too big) and seat height. Modern threadless headsets can be adjusted at the shop by adding/subtracting spacers; but most shops cut off the steerer tube too low already. Don't buy a bike with a cut off steerer tube.
Universal parts -- Most bikes made in the 80s and 90s used components that were easily interchanged (except the French. Stay away from old French bikes). You could mix Campy shifters with Simplex derailers and Shimano cogs. No prob. Component groups have become more specialized and exclusive over time. This helps them work perfectly, but only with matching parts.
There are many, many options besides Tri bikes. Go ride as many bikes as you can. New, used. Tri, road, cross, hybrid, commuter, touring. Steel, aluminum, carbon, titanium. Drop handlebars, flat bars, upright bars. Find one that feels right, and then customize it until it feels perfect!
And don't be too influenced by any one bicycle subculture. Carbon is great. Steel is great. Casual clothes work great, so does spandex. Have an open attitude so you can find what works best for you. Then get on it and ride!
A great post about bicyclist prejudices: https://surlybikes.com/blog/post/some..._ive_ever_read
09-09-13, 04:13 PM
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Hi,
Most people can get a road bike as good as they will ever need for under $1000.
I have a budget road bike and no useful opinions on expensive road bikes.
rgds, sreten.
Most people can get a road bike as good as they will ever need for under $1000.
I have a budget road bike and no useful opinions on expensive road bikes.
rgds, sreten.
09-09-13, 04:29 PM
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Of the bikes listed, only the Cervelo is a road bike, as noted, all the others are Tri/TT bikes, which is a really specialized area of biking, you really need to look at exactly the type of bike you want.
Would use caution if looking at any bike that isn't a 2013/14 model with the budget listed, as anything Shimano/Campagnolo at that price range should be 11 speed now, bikes older than 2013 won't be. For the budget, if looking at 2013 models, and you are happy with 10 speed, you should be able to get electronic shifting (DI2) within your budget.
For the budget you have listed, and given that you have ridden MTB's before, would look at a disc braked road bike, which there are plenty out there for the 2014 season, which we are just entering.
For Alu vs Carbon, apart from a very few Aluminum model, Carbon is king at your budget.
Would use caution if looking at any bike that isn't a 2013/14 model with the budget listed, as anything Shimano/Campagnolo at that price range should be 11 speed now, bikes older than 2013 won't be. For the budget, if looking at 2013 models, and you are happy with 10 speed, you should be able to get electronic shifting (DI2) within your budget.
For the budget you have listed, and given that you have ridden MTB's before, would look at a disc braked road bike, which there are plenty out there for the 2014 season, which we are just entering.
For Alu vs Carbon, apart from a very few Aluminum model, Carbon is king at your budget.
09-09-13, 04:36 PM
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I wouldn't get too hung up on models at this point. You need to start with some basic questions such as what kind of riding do you want to do and what do you want the bike for.
09-09-13, 06:26 PM
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Hi Tim.Iowa, Sreten, Jimc101 and Bikemig.
Yes , you guys are right. Thanks for those wonderful info and advise.
90% i will go on road with my friends just for a ride but not race... Ha ha
i did tried Trek Madone 5 series vs Trek speed concept 2.5. Is most comfort for Madone series.
Choice of Trek bike is due to lift frame warranty.
but coming to price both are close but the speed concept out look let me fall in it.
I will still go around to others for test ride before I making my final decision.
i have my SIDI MTB spider SRS and I'm don't wish to buy another pair of shoe for road riding.
I agrees that is challenging from MTB To road. Please share with me again if you free..
Once again . Thank you..
Yes , you guys are right. Thanks for those wonderful info and advise.
90% i will go on road with my friends just for a ride but not race... Ha ha
i did tried Trek Madone 5 series vs Trek speed concept 2.5. Is most comfort for Madone series.
Choice of Trek bike is due to lift frame warranty.
but coming to price both are close but the speed concept out look let me fall in it.
I will still go around to others for test ride before I making my final decision.
i have my SIDI MTB spider SRS and I'm don't wish to buy another pair of shoe for road riding.
I agrees that is challenging from MTB To road. Please share with me again if you free..
Once again . Thank you..
09-16-13, 10:18 AM
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Eddie-
It's good that you're visiting different shops for test rides. Keep trying until you find a bike that fits you and fits your riding style. You probably don't NEED a carbon, 11 speed bike for fast rides with friends. But you may want one and be able to afford it. If it gets you riding regularly, then it's a good bike.
But your road bike doesn't need to be a sub 20 pound carbon race machine to be a great road bike. Especially to a non-roadie, an inexpensive aluminum or aluminum/carbon frame with mid-level components (105 or Ultegra) may feel just fine. And it would be half the price of a Madone 5. Consider buying a cheaper (possibly used) road bike until you're sure about exactly what you want. You can always upgrade at a later date.
You also might want to try riding a steel framed road bike, like a Surly, Salsa, Soma, some Jamis, or others. Some claim that steel's natural springiness makes for the best feeling bike frames (I agree). A steel bike will probably weigh a couple pounds more than a similarly-equipped carbon bike, but you won't notice that weight once you're on it. Give a fine steel bike a try and see. However, don't let a crappy steel bike give you a bad impression of steel; cheap high-tensile steel (Huffy, classic Schwinns) is super heavy, whereas high end steel (chro-moly, or Reynolds/Columbus/Tange) is light and wonderful.
Comfort considerations: most road bikes have aggressive geometry (your seat is high and you're very leaned forward) which can be uncomfortable at first. You'll get more used to that position as you ride more, but it can be discouraging to a beginner. Consider bikes that allow you to easily adjust the seat position (up and down, forward and back) and handlebar position (up and down). For a modern bike with a threadless headset, try to find one with a lot of steerer tube showing above the headset. That means, find one with a tall stack of spacers under the handelbar stem. That way, you can easily move spacers around to fine tune the handlebar height. You can start with it super high for comfort, and then lower it bit by bit as you become more accustomed to the aggressive road position. Once you find the proper height, then you can have the bike shop cut off and finish the steerer tube. A bike with no spacer stack showing had its steerer cut already, which may not be the right height for you.
Regarding cycling shoes, you can just swap your pedals over from your MTB (very easy), or find a second pair of pedals (of the same clip type) for the road bike. When I ride clipless, I use Shimano's "MTB" SPD pedals on any bike, road or otherwise.
It's good that you're visiting different shops for test rides. Keep trying until you find a bike that fits you and fits your riding style. You probably don't NEED a carbon, 11 speed bike for fast rides with friends. But you may want one and be able to afford it. If it gets you riding regularly, then it's a good bike.
But your road bike doesn't need to be a sub 20 pound carbon race machine to be a great road bike. Especially to a non-roadie, an inexpensive aluminum or aluminum/carbon frame with mid-level components (105 or Ultegra) may feel just fine. And it would be half the price of a Madone 5. Consider buying a cheaper (possibly used) road bike until you're sure about exactly what you want. You can always upgrade at a later date.
You also might want to try riding a steel framed road bike, like a Surly, Salsa, Soma, some Jamis, or others. Some claim that steel's natural springiness makes for the best feeling bike frames (I agree). A steel bike will probably weigh a couple pounds more than a similarly-equipped carbon bike, but you won't notice that weight once you're on it. Give a fine steel bike a try and see. However, don't let a crappy steel bike give you a bad impression of steel; cheap high-tensile steel (Huffy, classic Schwinns) is super heavy, whereas high end steel (chro-moly, or Reynolds/Columbus/Tange) is light and wonderful.
Comfort considerations: most road bikes have aggressive geometry (your seat is high and you're very leaned forward) which can be uncomfortable at first. You'll get more used to that position as you ride more, but it can be discouraging to a beginner. Consider bikes that allow you to easily adjust the seat position (up and down, forward and back) and handlebar position (up and down). For a modern bike with a threadless headset, try to find one with a lot of steerer tube showing above the headset. That means, find one with a tall stack of spacers under the handelbar stem. That way, you can easily move spacers around to fine tune the handlebar height. You can start with it super high for comfort, and then lower it bit by bit as you become more accustomed to the aggressive road position. Once you find the proper height, then you can have the bike shop cut off and finish the steerer tube. A bike with no spacer stack showing had its steerer cut already, which may not be the right height for you.
Regarding cycling shoes, you can just swap your pedals over from your MTB (very easy), or find a second pair of pedals (of the same clip type) for the road bike. When I ride clipless, I use Shimano's "MTB" SPD pedals on any bike, road or otherwise.
09-16-13, 11:12 AM
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Eddie-
Those are all excellent triathlon/time trial bikes. But, a tri/tt bike would be a HUGE change from a MTB. Tri/tt bikes have the most aggressive, leaned-over, aerodynamic rider position of any bike. That's why they're so fast. They're also not very comfortable, especially to a rider unused to that aggressive position.
Before you spend $3k on a tri/tt bike, you should consider what type of riding you're looking to do. If it's Tri racing, then you're on the right track already. If it's semi-fast (15-20mph) road and paved trail riding/commuting, then a "standard" road bike would probably be better for you. Like the Trek Pilot and Madone series, or Specialized Allez, Roubaix, or Tarmac.
However, you may be better served buying an older, used road bike from your local shop or from Craigslist.
Advantages of an older bike:
Cheaper -- though include the $150-$200 or so for your local shop to tune it up, and replace the chain, tubes, and tires. Buy cheaper bikes until you're sure what you want to spend that $3k on.
Easier to adjust -- threaded headsets (old-style quill adjuster) can raise or lower the handlebars easily, which is the most important sizing adjustment after frame size (don't buy a bike that's too small or too big) and seat height. Modern threadless headsets can be adjusted at the shop by adding/subtracting spacers; but most shops cut off the steerer tube too low already. Don't buy a bike with a cut off steerer tube.
Universal parts -- Most bikes made in the 80s and 90s used components that were easily interchanged (except the French. Stay away from old French bikes). You could mix Campy shifters with Simplex derailers and Shimano cogs. No prob. Component groups have become more specialized and exclusive over time. This helps them work perfectly, but only with matching parts.
There are many, many options besides Tri bikes. Go ride as many bikes as you can. New, used. Tri, road, cross, hybrid, commuter, touring. Steel, aluminum, carbon, titanium. Drop handlebars, flat bars, upright bars. Find one that feels right, and then customize it until it feels perfect!
And don't be too influenced by any one bicycle subculture. Carbon is great. Steel is great. Casual clothes work great, so does spandex. Have an open attitude so you can find what works best for you. Then get on it and ride!
A great post about bicyclist prejudices: https://surlybikes.com/blog/post/some..._ive_ever_read
Those are all excellent triathlon/time trial bikes. But, a tri/tt bike would be a HUGE change from a MTB. Tri/tt bikes have the most aggressive, leaned-over, aerodynamic rider position of any bike. That's why they're so fast. They're also not very comfortable, especially to a rider unused to that aggressive position.
Before you spend $3k on a tri/tt bike, you should consider what type of riding you're looking to do. If it's Tri racing, then you're on the right track already. If it's semi-fast (15-20mph) road and paved trail riding/commuting, then a "standard" road bike would probably be better for you. Like the Trek Pilot and Madone series, or Specialized Allez, Roubaix, or Tarmac.
However, you may be better served buying an older, used road bike from your local shop or from Craigslist.
Advantages of an older bike:
Cheaper -- though include the $150-$200 or so for your local shop to tune it up, and replace the chain, tubes, and tires. Buy cheaper bikes until you're sure what you want to spend that $3k on.
Easier to adjust -- threaded headsets (old-style quill adjuster) can raise or lower the handlebars easily, which is the most important sizing adjustment after frame size (don't buy a bike that's too small or too big) and seat height. Modern threadless headsets can be adjusted at the shop by adding/subtracting spacers; but most shops cut off the steerer tube too low already. Don't buy a bike with a cut off steerer tube.
Universal parts -- Most bikes made in the 80s and 90s used components that were easily interchanged (except the French. Stay away from old French bikes). You could mix Campy shifters with Simplex derailers and Shimano cogs. No prob. Component groups have become more specialized and exclusive over time. This helps them work perfectly, but only with matching parts.
There are many, many options besides Tri bikes. Go ride as many bikes as you can. New, used. Tri, road, cross, hybrid, commuter, touring. Steel, aluminum, carbon, titanium. Drop handlebars, flat bars, upright bars. Find one that feels right, and then customize it until it feels perfect!
And don't be too influenced by any one bicycle subculture. Carbon is great. Steel is great. Casual clothes work great, so does spandex. Have an open attitude so you can find what works best for you. Then get on it and ride!
A great post about bicyclist prejudices: https://surlybikes.com/blog/post/some..._ive_ever_read
09-18-13, 03:42 PM
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Exactly what Tim said. Almost word for word. Personally, for me, a tri bike would be a huge mistake. I wouldn't be comfortable, don't need it, don't want it, eventually wouldn't ride it. You may be different, but it's a BIG change.
09-26-13, 11:58 AM
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Tim_Iowa,
Currently I used Shimano's SPD pedals as well. I will just find another pair of pedals as for the road bike in future. I did try some model for a past week, TREK speed concept 2.5 in size 52 and CANNONDALE Slice 4 in size 51. Feel alright to me even in those aggressive position so far. But it was just a trial run near the shop while not in long distance trial ride. Somehow i heard they might have a big change like disc brake new model for years 2014? Im doubt..
Thanks for sharing.
Currently I used Shimano's SPD pedals as well. I will just find another pair of pedals as for the road bike in future. I did try some model for a past week, TREK speed concept 2.5 in size 52 and CANNONDALE Slice 4 in size 51. Feel alright to me even in those aggressive position so far. But it was just a trial run near the shop while not in long distance trial ride. Somehow i heard they might have a big change like disc brake new model for years 2014? Im doubt..
Thanks for sharing.
09-27-13, 05:30 AM
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Eddie, there's a few bike shops in Singapore. If you don't race and just want to socialize with friends, the disk brakes will not be a major concern. Socializing in Singapore means you want a good looking bike. Something to consider is the Felt bikes. A wide range of styles and competitive prices.
09-27-13, 05:52 AM
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Eddie, You should ask you question in the road forum if you are interested in a fast riding bike.
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09-27-13, 08:53 AM
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OP: I want to buy a bike, my budget is $3000
Everyone else: You don't need a bike that's $3000.
Who gives a poo what the OP needs, he has a $3000 budget, let him buy a nice bike if he wants one.
As others have said, most of the bikes you mentioned are TT/Tri bikes...those are fine, but they're more geared for 40km at a time as opposed to an all day jaunt with your bike buds.
If you like the Cannondale Slice, you might want to check out the Supersix, Evo, or Caad 10 ... if you'd like an even more relaxed geometry, the Synapse would also be a good choice.
Something like this would get you rolling under your budget and its a helluva nice bike:
https://www.cannondale.com/catalog/pr.../category/916/
Or if you want to hit your $3600 price point, you can start looking at the Ultegra and Red fitted bikes:
https://www.cannondale.com/catalog/pr.../category/916/
Everyone else: You don't need a bike that's $3000.
Who gives a poo what the OP needs, he has a $3000 budget, let him buy a nice bike if he wants one.
As others have said, most of the bikes you mentioned are TT/Tri bikes...those are fine, but they're more geared for 40km at a time as opposed to an all day jaunt with your bike buds.
If you like the Cannondale Slice, you might want to check out the Supersix, Evo, or Caad 10 ... if you'd like an even more relaxed geometry, the Synapse would also be a good choice.
Something like this would get you rolling under your budget and its a helluva nice bike:
https://www.cannondale.com/catalog/pr.../category/916/
Or if you want to hit your $3600 price point, you can start looking at the Ultegra and Red fitted bikes:
https://www.cannondale.com/catalog/pr.../category/916/
09-27-13, 09:45 PM
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Hi,
Garfield Cat -
socialize ? Good words.. Ha ha ha ..I do agree with you.
MTb to road , I am new to road bike and will ride with my friends for time being. Reason of going for Tri bike instead of road bike is because 50% of roadie friends have changed their road to TRi. They having a hard time to sell off their current model. Cause lost a lot.. I feel it Too .
They are numbers of high end bicycle shop in Singapore. Since I want to buy a road bike, I try to look for middle range if price is right or I able to afford . I believe anyone of us will use to if continue practice.. Maybe I will take 3 months, 6 months or longer....? my 2 cents...8)
Ahsposo -
I did ask myself go slow or fast? I should said I'm a slow rider . Have to be slow now cause I am new to road bike.. Might force to go faster due to cycling as a group ( leave no men behind ) while buddy pushing eachother during the ride? Just like weight lifting...
SpeshulEd - thanks for the link... Wonderful..
Ha ha Everyone have $3600 or even more.... But someone might prefer to spend $3600 for home hi-fi, Brand bags , clothing etc.. Since I love cycling, I willing to give a try on the bike.
As to me - although life is wonderful but It is very short, if I can have something that make me happen, win me a smile. I willing to try... Live no regard . I will take my time to do research and trial run before my final decision make.
All the Above are just my 2 cents... No offend to all...
Big thanks for those wonderful advise...good day. B)
Garfield Cat -
socialize ? Good words.. Ha ha ha ..I do agree with you.
MTb to road , I am new to road bike and will ride with my friends for time being. Reason of going for Tri bike instead of road bike is because 50% of roadie friends have changed their road to TRi. They having a hard time to sell off their current model. Cause lost a lot.. I feel it Too .
They are numbers of high end bicycle shop in Singapore. Since I want to buy a road bike, I try to look for middle range if price is right or I able to afford . I believe anyone of us will use to if continue practice.. Maybe I will take 3 months, 6 months or longer....? my 2 cents...8)
Ahsposo -
I did ask myself go slow or fast? I should said I'm a slow rider . Have to be slow now cause I am new to road bike.. Might force to go faster due to cycling as a group ( leave no men behind ) while buddy pushing eachother during the ride? Just like weight lifting...
SpeshulEd - thanks for the link... Wonderful..
Ha ha Everyone have $3600 or even more.... But someone might prefer to spend $3600 for home hi-fi, Brand bags , clothing etc.. Since I love cycling, I willing to give a try on the bike.
As to me - although life is wonderful but It is very short, if I can have something that make me happen, win me a smile. I willing to try... Live no regard . I will take my time to do research and trial run before my final decision make.
All the Above are just my 2 cents... No offend to all...
Big thanks for those wonderful advise...good day. B)
09-28-13, 08:21 AM
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Eddie, your Singapore friends should keep the road bikes and just buy a tri bike. Two bikes are better than one. Ask any social rider.
Then go to the Asia Bike Show in China with a group of your friends.
https://www.chinaexhibition.com/Offic...Show_2013.html
Then go to the Asia Bike Show in China with a group of your friends.
https://www.chinaexhibition.com/Offic...Show_2013.html
09-28-13, 01:47 PM
#16
Banned
90% i will go on road with my friends just for a ride but not race...
expenditure level to feel right, and a member of this group?
09-28-13, 02:35 PM
#17
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Location: Phoenix, AZ
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The guy has a budget that he wants to spend on his bike, who cares if you can buy a bike for cheaper, he doesn't want to.
09-28-13, 02:36 PM
#18
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Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Potashville
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Bikes: Reynolds 531P road bike, Rocky Mountain Metropolis, Rocky Mountain Sherpa 10, Look 566
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Many road bikes have "sport" geometry, which means they are designed slightly more for comfortable day trips than for all-out racing. The Cannondale Synapse, Look 566, Giant Defy, and Specialized Roubaix are just a few examples. I have a Look 566 and absolutely love it, but the bike that will work best for you will be the one that fits your body best. A bike shop that takes measurements and tries to get you a good fit is key to finding the right bike.
09-29-13, 09:18 AM
#19
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Location: SINGAPORE
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Hi , one again thanks you for your valuable input and advise...
Garfield Cat - thanks for the link. I did ask my friends to keep their road bike.. Well ..75% of them wanted to sell it aways . Reason was no market value if holding for another years. And new model coming out fast?
FIetsbob - 80% you're right. But I still have some friends will continue their road bike for the time being...
Reason are - some still searching like I do.. Some due to budget. Etc..
SpeshulEd - ha ha .. No man... I have tight budget as well. Someone else just wanted me to think carefully or share with me their concern. That's why this forums come in.. Right?
Honestly thanks for your support , I willing to give a try since I like cycling. My 2 cents.
Rhodabike - thanks for the wonderful input. Up to date, I haven't make up my mind Whether going for road or Tri bike? I will see which is good for me during the fit test. I believe and I hope the bike shop engineer can do a good fit test for me with good advise as well?
Finally, nice guys like you all and happy to hear from you guys... Wonderful ..thumb up ,
You might in doubt of -
Why I willing to spend $3000 for a bike as a newbie?
Why I go for Tri bike instead of Road bike as a newbie?
Why I never think about buying a 2nd hand bike?
The answer is - life is short...
Please Allow me to shape with you one scenes but not related to bike - it make me changed.
i am Armani fans. Happen 2 years ago when I bought my Giorgio Armani shoe in ION Singapore. There a man buying an Giorgio Armani shoe for himself but he need one pieces. reason is he have one leg only.
I saw this during my payment and he is right In front of me. We do some conversation, and it make me changed after the talked.
I do see many mans or children without one arms or legs on the road, but his expression ...
As I mention - Live no regards .... Before anything happen to me during the ride or work etc...
just my 2 cents...
Happy cycling and ride safely. Good day to all..8)
Garfield Cat - thanks for the link. I did ask my friends to keep their road bike.. Well ..75% of them wanted to sell it aways . Reason was no market value if holding for another years. And new model coming out fast?
FIetsbob - 80% you're right. But I still have some friends will continue their road bike for the time being...
Reason are - some still searching like I do.. Some due to budget. Etc..
SpeshulEd - ha ha .. No man... I have tight budget as well. Someone else just wanted me to think carefully or share with me their concern. That's why this forums come in.. Right?
Honestly thanks for your support , I willing to give a try since I like cycling. My 2 cents.
Rhodabike - thanks for the wonderful input. Up to date, I haven't make up my mind Whether going for road or Tri bike? I will see which is good for me during the fit test. I believe and I hope the bike shop engineer can do a good fit test for me with good advise as well?
Finally, nice guys like you all and happy to hear from you guys... Wonderful ..thumb up ,
You might in doubt of -
Why I willing to spend $3000 for a bike as a newbie?
Why I go for Tri bike instead of Road bike as a newbie?
Why I never think about buying a 2nd hand bike?
The answer is - life is short...
Please Allow me to shape with you one scenes but not related to bike - it make me changed.
i am Armani fans. Happen 2 years ago when I bought my Giorgio Armani shoe in ION Singapore. There a man buying an Giorgio Armani shoe for himself but he need one pieces. reason is he have one leg only.
I saw this during my payment and he is right In front of me. We do some conversation, and it make me changed after the talked.
I do see many mans or children without one arms or legs on the road, but his expression ...
As I mention - Live no regards .... Before anything happen to me during the ride or work etc...
just my 2 cents...
Happy cycling and ride safely. Good day to all..8)
09-29-13, 09:36 AM
#20
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LIVE NO REGRET... I knew that I have many spelling mistake.. I am sorry ..
Last edited by Eddie Lim; 09-29-13 at 09:37 AM. Reason: Wrong spelling
09-29-13, 10:31 AM
#21
Banned
Well Here there is a Trek Dealer , the Domane is nice , as is their Madone.
This site as a chit-chat guesstimate place has its limits, for the distant inquiry.
of course I have no Clue what is in the shops in Singapore,
I hear HK gets European brands , but IDK actually.
the off shore subcontracting has a lot of well known brand names made in Taiwan
whether any come into the local Asian . market IDK.
any how hard to chat with the friends when in full aero tuck ..
But the Monsoon has arrived to the Pacific North west ,
so nobody will order any of those till spring. after Junuary..
I think it the heavy rain we are getting, began over on your side of the Pacific.
This site as a chit-chat guesstimate place has its limits, for the distant inquiry.
of course I have no Clue what is in the shops in Singapore,
I hear HK gets European brands , but IDK actually.
the off shore subcontracting has a lot of well known brand names made in Taiwan
whether any come into the local Asian . market IDK.
any how hard to chat with the friends when in full aero tuck ..
But the Monsoon has arrived to the Pacific North west ,
so nobody will order any of those till spring. after Junuary..
I think it the heavy rain we are getting, began over on your side of the Pacific.
Last edited by fietsbob; 09-29-13 at 10:44 AM.
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VictorMikeLima
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