jkuper

I am using Kurt Road Machine and a CycleOps riser block and can't get the bike leveled regardless of the position of the riser block. Does anyone know if this is because it's mixing brands or just the way it is? I am trying to level is to play with the fit using Bike Fast Fit app.

merlinextraligh

You can use anything you have handy to raise the front wheel. I've used weight plates, you can use a book. Anything that's solid works.

canam73

To high in the front or too low? You could stack phone books or something to get things level.

jkuper

Front too high

Yes, I know I can use other things under the front wheel, I was just curious as to why it's not level using what I have and if anyone has any experience with it.

canam73

I have the Kurt circular riser that has 3 different heights. I'd guess one is level for the Road Machine, but I don't use it. I prefer more rise on the trainer and use the Nashbar riser with an extra block. Feels better to me, maybe because it compensates for the lack of "head wind" generated when riding outdoors.

The Kurt ring only supports the tire at 2 small spots and since I don't always fill my front tire when I ride indoors it looks way to pinchy if your tire is at all low. It might be in my head, but the Nashbar supports several inches of tire and as long as there is any air up front it stays off the rim.

bbbean 

You get a better workout that way - climbing all the time!

redcon1

This. And that's why muscle cars are higher in the rear... always going downhill, so better gas mileage.

jkuper

Read the third sentence of the original post.

therhodeo

I use a 4 year old Cabela fall master catalog.

canam73

Have you thought about upgrading? The 2013 is 17 grams lighter.

therhodeo

The new ones aren't hardback. Thats kind of like riding a bike thats not steel.

Road Fan

I think it's easy to understand if you think about what holds up the two ends of the bike on the trainer. First off, the bike is level if a line between the two wheel axes is level, but this is hard to measure, compared to a properly-made level top tube.

The rear wheel is held up by the trainer frame, attached to thte bike at the axle. The height above the ground only depends on the design of the trainer and bike frames and whether the trainer is sitting on the floor or perhaps is shimmed or padded. The front wheel is supported at the tire, which rests on the wheel block, homemade or not. So the size of the front tire is a factor. Kurt had some front tire in mind when designing the support block, but I don't think they tell us what tire, pressure, and block position is intended to be level. This is kind of like a calibration condition, that they don't define.

Another variable is that the floor might not be level, or the trainer frame might sink into the carpet farther than does the front block (or vice-versa).

As far as pre-conditions for a level bike, there is a unique pre-condition but we don't know what it is, and there are many variables. I think the real bottom line is to vary the thickness of the front wheel support (i.e. how many old issues of Bicycling! you will put under the block) using a good level (digital, bubble, dial, plumb-based or whatever) some reference point on the bike frame to determine when it is level. My frames have level top tubes (a retro-grouch, yes) so it's easy for me.

For fitting and setup, I like the bike level, so I agree that you should work on this.

Road Fan

I don't think so. The motor is not doing any more work since the bike is not actually climbing a hill. It's just a chance to acclimate your body to a new saddle angle, pedal position, and bar position. Personally I don't see this option as being of much value in a training plan.

Cyclelogikal

I agree! I use the same block if it is what I am thinking but never stack books under it to raise. I just adjust gears to simulate resistance like climbing and all. It has three so called positions on my block but they appear to be identical by eyeing them.

Cyclelogikal

You're right and that is why I never put anything under my block to simulate meclimbing since I do so by changing to a smaller cog in the cassette.

Kopsis

The legs on the KK Road Machine are adjustable to support different wheel/tire diameters. If the front riser block seems too tall, double check that the leg pivot bolt is in the "highest" position.

bbbean 

You fell into the sar chasm.

Road Fan

Throw me a rope, it's cold down here!

SpeshulEd 

I use 3 sweetwater catalogs stacked on top of each other. Works like a champ!