Help me modify a CycleOps Indoor Trainer
#26
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UPDATE:
I went to about 5 local shops yesterday. In the last shop, I found a right side JTEK shifter that had been laying around for years. It's indexed for Alfine 8 speed. I got it for a good price.
https://jtekengineering.com/barendshifter.php
I checked and it fits on the end of Nitto bars.
PROS: The switching is VERY hard and deliberate.
CONS: I won't be able to fine-tune it like a friction shifter.
Ah. I see what you mean now.
I went to about 5 local shops yesterday. In the last shop, I found a right side JTEK shifter that had been laying around for years. It's indexed for Alfine 8 speed. I got it for a good price.
https://jtekengineering.com/barendshifter.php
I checked and it fits on the end of Nitto bars.
PROS: The switching is VERY hard and deliberate.
CONS: I won't be able to fine-tune it like a friction shifter.
My thought was that you could use the inline adjuster to set a base line resistance comparable to laps 2-4 of the kilo. Then use the barcon or thumbie to simulate starting resistance. This would provide you with the ability to lessen resistance with minimal thought and no chance of over adjusting while going flat out. Just a way of providing greater consistancy with regard to where you end up late as you complete the accelleration phase.
If you're using it like the video below, there wouldn't be an advantage. But, that doesn't look productive to me. Or, at the very least, far, far from ideal.
I'm also wondering if a multispeed tt/barend/aero shifter would have sufficient resistance in it's detents to hold braking pressures. Having 10 consistent set points in addition to the inline adjuster might be advantageous with regard to repeatability.
Let us know how your experiment works out.
If you're using it like the video below, there wouldn't be an advantage. But, that doesn't look productive to me. Or, at the very least, far, far from ideal.
I'm also wondering if a multispeed tt/barend/aero shifter would have sufficient resistance in it's detents to hold braking pressures. Having 10 consistent set points in addition to the inline adjuster might be advantageous with regard to repeatability.
Let us know how your experiment works out.
Last edited by carleton; 01-07-14 at 01:47 PM.
#27
Banned
you will have 8 increments , as you pull the cable tighter .. it may be adequate .. only time will tell
#28
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On a related note, the reference Cateye CS-1000 also used an indexed lever with about 6-8 increments. Yeah, time will tell. I'm waiting on 1 more part to arrive then I'll have it complete.
#29
Senior Member
The minnions anxiously await photographic evidence of your success in creating "Carleton's Frankentrainer".
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Birth Certificate, Passport, Marriage License Driver's License and Residency Permit all say I'm a Fred. I guess there's no denying it.
#30
Banned
stick an inline cable adjuster in the housing path and you might be able to tweak
the use of the space between detents .. since you are stationary at least you wont crash into Anything.
and Get on Paul Allen, Etc. about putting up a Velodrome.
there was that thing on the ballot last year about a [Private, non tribal] Casino on an old,
betting on the Dogs track site, in Portland.
Maybe a Japanese style Keirin track would get funding, since In Japan they have Betting windows ,
taking odds, and Money, on which guy will Win, show and Place..
the use of the space between detents .. since you are stationary at least you wont crash into Anything.
and Get on Paul Allen, Etc. about putting up a Velodrome.
there was that thing on the ballot last year about a [Private, non tribal] Casino on an old,
betting on the Dogs track site, in Portland.
Maybe a Japanese style Keirin track would get funding, since In Japan they have Betting windows ,
taking odds, and Money, on which guy will Win, show and Place..
#31
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stick an inline cable adjuster in the housing path and you might be able to tweak
the use of the space between detents .. since you are stationary at least you wont crash into Anything.
and Get on Paul Allen, Etc. about putting up a Velodrome.
there was that thing on the ballot last year about a [Private, non tribal] Casino on an old,
betting on the Dogs track site, in Portland.
Maybe a Japanese style Keirin track would get funding, since In Japan they have Betting windows ,
taking odds, and Money, on which guy will Win, show and Place..
the use of the space between detents .. since you are stationary at least you wont crash into Anything.
and Get on Paul Allen, Etc. about putting up a Velodrome.
there was that thing on the ballot last year about a [Private, non tribal] Casino on an old,
betting on the Dogs track site, in Portland.
Maybe a Japanese style Keirin track would get funding, since In Japan they have Betting windows ,
taking odds, and Money, on which guy will Win, show and Place..
I'm not much of a "mover and shaker" when it comes to big initiatives like this. But, I'm good at helping and opening my wallet
#32
Banned
Cost of Living in PDX will help your wallet lighten . but the SF bay area is worse, so take that in .
#33
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UPDATE:
As bigfred and fietsbob thought, the indexes on the 8-speed shifter are simply too far apart. I only have 3 usable selections: OFF, Barely Touching, and Immovable
Luckily, I ordered some Dia-Compe Silver Bar End Shifters last week which should arrive today or tomorrow.
The product description is as follows:
Back to work...
As bigfred and fietsbob thought, the indexes on the 8-speed shifter are simply too far apart. I only have 3 usable selections: OFF, Barely Touching, and Immovable
Luckily, I ordered some Dia-Compe Silver Bar End Shifters last week which should arrive today or tomorrow.
The product description is as follows:
These are copies of the Suntour Micro ratcheting shifters and one of the best shifters of all time (only the discontinued Simplex retro-friction are slightly nicer). These are the Dia Compe Silver down tube shifters adapted to bar enduse.
Back to work...
#34
Senior Member
Thanks for the update Carleton. I had been wondering how it was going. Hopefully the micro ratcheting will offer better control.
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Update:
The Dia-Compe shifters (above) that I ordered were lost in transit due to USPS error. Ben's Cycle is sending out another set.
In the mean-time, I found a set of these in a local shop:
(random pic from the internet)
The ones I got were pretty beat up but they work perfectly! They hold the tension at any setting solid as a rock.
Problem solved. Thanks for the help!!
The Dia-Compe shifters (above) that I ordered were lost in transit due to USPS error. Ben's Cycle is sending out another set.
In the mean-time, I found a set of these in a local shop:
(random pic from the internet)
The ones I got were pretty beat up but they work perfectly! They hold the tension at any setting solid as a rock.
Problem solved. Thanks for the help!!
#36
Banned
my Go-To shift levers for 30 years..
I got off the 'more speeds is better' bandwagon
long ago because I was never unhappy with my drivetrain function ..
Until I adopted a Rohloff hub equipped Bike .. in 08..
I got off the 'more speeds is better' bandwagon
long ago because I was never unhappy with my drivetrain function ..
Until I adopted a Rohloff hub equipped Bike .. in 08..
Last edited by fietsbob; 01-16-14 at 04:08 PM.
#38
Junior Member
If you would like to use the repeatability of an indexed shifter, but are held back because the cable pull is wrong, you could try a Travel Agent. Travel Agents come in regular (designed to fit into the yoke on a V-brake) and in an in-line version. The in-line version is not currently in production, but are readily available, and are probably the best choice for your application. Here's an example (no relationship to the seller): https://www.ebay.com/itm/Problem-Solv...-/370606573179
#39
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UPDATE:
Thanks again, guys. Last week I was able to pour 1960W into the machine and it was really steady.
So, being that we are never satisfied...
My SRM track cranks are just sitting on my track bike and won't be used until April or May when the season is about to begin. I want to put them on this thing. They use the Octalink BB.
The SRM records data at a faster rate and sooner than the PowerTap. With the PowerTap I miss the first few seconds of the effort.
I called Cycleops and they said that the BB in the unit is a 113x68 ISIS and uses that big steel combined crank and chainring thing. I have a 109.5 Dura Ace BB, but I think that will throw the chainline off.
So, what are my Octalink options? I've only seen 109.5mm. Are there longer ones? Anybody got a part number for something longer?
Thanks!
Thanks again, guys. Last week I was able to pour 1960W into the machine and it was really steady.
So, being that we are never satisfied...
My SRM track cranks are just sitting on my track bike and won't be used until April or May when the season is about to begin. I want to put them on this thing. They use the Octalink BB.
The SRM records data at a faster rate and sooner than the PowerTap. With the PowerTap I miss the first few seconds of the effort.
I called Cycleops and they said that the BB in the unit is a 113x68 ISIS and uses that big steel combined crank and chainring thing. I have a 109.5 Dura Ace BB, but I think that will throw the chainline off.
So, what are my Octalink options? I've only seen 109.5mm. Are there longer ones? Anybody got a part number for something longer?
Thanks!
Last edited by carleton; 01-28-14 at 12:28 PM.
#40
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If you would like to use the repeatability of an indexed shifter, but are held back because the cable pull is wrong, you could try a Travel Agent. Travel Agents come in regular (designed to fit into the yoke on a V-brake) and in an in-line version. The in-line version is not currently in production, but are readily available, and are probably the best choice for your application. Here's an example (no relationship to the seller): https://www.ebay.com/itm/Problem-Solv...-/370606573179
#42
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someone was sorta asking the bb question in the framebuilder's forum about a month ago. We didn't help him.
I think you should be able to space out the bb by an amount that will give you a good chainline. Is there a problem with clearances on the non-drive side?
I think you should be able to space out the bb by an amount that will give you a good chainline. Is there a problem with clearances on the non-drive side?
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