eoj2013

so I'm taking in my Fuji Royale I got for free for upgrades to a shop just wondering if its worth modern upgrades like 700c wheels crank and cog swap for hill adaptation. I'm going to be needing the bike for long distance commuting in below zero temperatures to school and work through the downtown city traffic so I need it as comfortable and adaptable as possible as well as quick and efficient while using as less effort as possible so you know smooth ill also be climbing hills. So are these upgrades worth it for this 70-80s bike? The most I can afford to put in it is 100 for now. the gearing I might be able to get used but the wheels might be new. I want to stick with this bike until I can afford a better one. I just don't want the shop to lie to me in order to get me to buy parts, no offense. So is it worth it? Thank You very much.

DVC45

If you love it that much and if you think the upgrades will make it more enjoyable to ride, then go for it.

megalowmatt

I'd say no. Looks like the frame is a little big for you.

DVC45

Oops... yup. Looks like it is too big.
I did not notice the seat position.

CACycling

This. If the saddle height is set for you then the frame is too big. If the frame does fit, I wouldn't replace the wheelset unless it has issues. Plenty of decent 27" tires out there to choose from. Replacing the cassette/freewheel to get better gearing could be OK as long as the existing RD can handle the larger cogs. You'll need to replace the chain as well as it will be short.

jyl

Don't put any money into that bike if it is way too big for you, which the seat position shown would suggest. For $100, you can probably go on CL and buy an old, non-suspension, '90s mountain bike which will be a seviceable commuter, sturdy w/ wide gear range. Sell the Fuji and buy some street tires and lights for the MTB. That would be my suggestion.

eoj2013

yeah I'm 6'3" OK I might be able to buy a used frame. Thanks for the feed back

noglider 

Maybe the seat is too low for you. Have the folks at the local bike shop (LBS) set it right for you and determine if the bike fits and if it's a good bike to rely on for heavy commuting. If it fits and if they can get it in good shape for $100, then it's a good value.

hueyhoolihan

life's a process. my first biking experience as an adult of 31 yrs of age involved a free women's raleigh three speed with rotted tires. i was thankful for it, seeing as how i was suffering an hour bus ride twice a day that covered a straight line distance of only five miles. i went to the library and took out books and haunted the local bike shops. when i could afford it i had a little knowledge and less money, but managed to get something nicer.

if you are 6' 2" that bike frame isn't all that far off the mark as far as size goes. i'd keep it. a hundred dollars doesn't go far. so look into drivetrain components, like chain, freewheel, maybe tires/tubes and start from there. good luck.

the post above ^^^ this makes sense to me...

fietsbob

If 6'3" as in the picture, seems the seat to pedal adjustment, is questionable .

given it has the saddle pushed down so far ,I agree, someone may not know how to set up a bike properly.

and in that talking to the people in the bike shop and getting that sorted out is a good 1st step.

(Always Guessing since I'm not there and the bike is not on the repair stand in front of me.)
sensible upgrades: Aluminum rim wheels.. if yours are steel ,
available friction increase between pad and rim, particularly when wet, makes them stop better

27" is still OK .. since the brakes reach that rim size.

with older narrow rear axle frames , the number of "speeds" is limited to the frame width available

over the years the frames got wider 120mm to 130 , redoing that, spreading is tricky ..

a practical change internal gear hubs .. just work better in the long run , less fussy .


in 2014 you will blow thru 5 $20 bills quickly .
It would have gone further during the Truman Administration.

GamblerGORD53

That bike looks like it's XL 25" and probably has a 120mm dropout. Not much can be done but a new freewheel and chain.
Get some good grease and tune it up. It's definitely a good rider.
Then buy a rack and ride.

Spld cyclist

Assuming the bike actually fits you, I would say the one essential upgrade would be Kool Stop brake pads for front and rear. As for the rest of the bike, make sure it has workable cables and that everything is cleaned, lubed, and adjusted correctly. The wheels should be trued if needed.

Hopefully, nothing will be too worn out to result in a repair costing more than the bike is worth. If after using the bike you decide that it is "the one," it would be worth having all the bearings (headset, hubs, and bottom bracket) rebuilt. As suggested above, if it has steel rims, it's highly worth it to replace them with aluminum ones. Look for a free or cheap donor bike with aluminum wheels.

Phil_gretz

Guys! Hold it. I've refurbisbed and flipped three Royales. The rims are aluminum. The freewheel is a 6-speed SunTour. And the front will be 52/42. If he is 6'3", this frame will fit.

Handlebars lower. Seatpost height and saddle angle corrected. New brake pads and cablles.

DON'T CHANGE THE WHEELS.

fietsbob

120 becomes a Fixie or IGH possibility .. if putting another 5 speed freewheel is not floating your boat.

megalowmatt

It may just be you have the saddle too low.

Sitting on the bike extend your leg down with your heel on the pedal. A rough starting point would be with the saddle at height and heel on the pedal with knee almost locked. It's a rough starting point but still gives you an idea as to whether you should raise the saddle or not.

tjspiel

It's all about realistic expectations.

If by below zero temps you mean below 0 Fahrenheit, then you're talking about snow and ice for sure. Below 0 Celsius probably means that too depending on how much time is spent below vs above and what form of precip you typically get in colder weather.

The big question I'd have is how long is your commute and how well are the roads plowed? Long commutes are harder in the winter than in the summer. So before deciding how/if to spend money on this bike, I'd try and figure out if that's a realistic goal or not.

If the roads aren't so great you might want to consider studded tires which I don't think you can find in the 27" variety. Some folks have made their own.

Another option would be to a get a 700c front wheel and a Nokian 35mm studded tire if you can fit it. Those tires are relatively tall and the outside diameter might end up being close to the diameter of a 27" tire. Keeping your current back wheel would save you some money but of course the traction isn't going to be as good as having 2 studded tires. The front is the most important though. Save your 27" front wheel for non-winter use.

I wouldn't upgrade the crank or cogs unless there is something wrong with the ones that are there. However, if you're serious about riding in the winter and the terrain is relatively flat, converting it to a single speed might save you some maintenance headaches. If salt and sand is used to treat the roads in your area, be aware that they can be tough on your chain and derailleurs.

Motolegs

I believe there are Gatorskins in 27" size. A worthy investment in a commuting bike.

gregjones

Your set-up is wanked. You need to at least look at some pictures of bikes to see what they should look like.


So fast in fact, you definitely won't get any wheels worth a quarter--so don't waste any more on them. Or, different gearing of any sort if you have to also pay for labor.

gregjones

Crap, Motolegs just suckered me into posting on a two week old thread with a long gone OP.