Mambo Dave

My first ride on a fixed gear bike, and my first owned. Been an interesting day, and in the end I finally dove back into Sheldon Brown's pages (12 years after first discovering his teachings), then was able to finally put a voice to all of it (I find it difficult to understand how there seems to be only one video on all of YouTube with Sheldon in it): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J-5UqFxbOvA .

The bike came as one would expect, and the tires had no air in them:



I inspected the tires to make sure they were seated on the rims - or at least looked seated correctly. The front was an issue right from the get-go. Upon inflation, there was an area of the tire bulging out. I deflated it, worked it back together, and ended up with the same bulge - and then the tube blew.



The rear seemed to inflate fine, so I put my road bike's front wheel onto the Streetfighter and was off to the local 5-mile loop around the airport.

About 3 miles of just an absolute great feeling ride (platform pedals, tennis shoes until I get used to fixed gear riding), I started hearing a tick-tick-tick, then started feeling it. Sure enough... the rear was bulging out now. It was fine for 3 miles, but then it wasn't.

I attempted to let some air out to reduce the stress to try to ride it back, but accidentally let out too much - so I was walking. By the end of the day my new bike now had another bike's front wheel, and a new tire and tube (local bike shop's Gatorback tire) on the rear wheel.



Beyond the ultra-cheap tires, the only things I would criticize are an area that had a paint foul-up (was too protected from the box's edge during shipping, so this happened at the factory):



And perhaps more importantly... an area of the top tube that wasn't welded completely (or is this a 'feature'?):



Edit September 01, 2015: BikesDirect replied back to my e-mail, and found a fair enough way to settle for the blemishes. I feel comfortable and safe enough riding the frame, and the honest truth is that there is not a riding position I could put myself into - especially not with it in fixed-gear mode - where I could see the hole on the end of the top tube. If I can't see it for an entire ride, then it's just a vent hole that gives the bike character.

AlmostTrick

That's a vent for when you get going really fast and the head tube heats up.

AlmostTrick

I'm surprised the Street Fighter doesn't come with the track end dropout inserts that the Cafe Fixie has.



Sucks that you had problems with the tires. Contact BD and have 'em credit you or send replacements.

Mambo Dave

I am so relieved!

Mambo Dave

Can I buy and fit dropout inserts onto a frame that didn't come with them?

I like the look of your bike.

TejanoTrackie 

Those inserts are for an aluminum frame, and are unnecessary for a steel frame like yours.

AlmostTrick

Thanks, that makes sense, TT. I learn something new every year.

I just like how it prevents the nut from tearing up the paint, cuz I'm anal like that.

I'd also put a dab of filler and touch up paint on that hole. Again, because...

Mambo Dave

My concern is that the paint hides the true weld, and if the weld is already unfinished in that area, then how thin is the weld on either side of it?

TejanoTrackie 

Nah, just a pinhole. No big deal.

SquidPuppet

It probably won't fall apart, but I could never live with that hole. If it was under a chain stay or something, then maybe. But TOP DEAD CENTER? It would be a constant reminder of the poor workmanship and crappy quality control. I would never be able to "Unsee" it. But that's just me. Do what you are comfortable with.

motrheadsroadie

"poor workmanship" and "crappy quality control" for a $300 complete bike. huh.

TejanoTrackie 

Actually, that particular bike is only $230.

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Mambo Dave

But that totally depends on BikesDirect. I am of the opinion, now, that the bicycle 'kit' ships from China with black round things that resemble tires, but that were never up to being 'tires' at all. So ... $230, plus (2 x $15) or (2 x $39), + (2 x $8 tubes).

I was dead set on buying one of a number of ~$200 fixed gears from a number of different sellers (Critical Cycles, Pure Fix, Framed), but then this non-glamorous plain-jane bike kit from BikesDirect caught my attention since it had machined braking surfaces on the rims (no others in this price range seemed to), and brakes on both the front and rear (I wanted brakes on the front, minimally, to learn fixed gear with). On top of that, this frame had the eyelets for a rear rack - so I could mount a rack and keep my tubes, tools and a pair of walking shoes (for exactly like what happened today) back there.

This will be just about the least stylish fixie, but it will serve a purpose.

TejanoTrackie 

I think you will find that most under $300 bikes will come with pretty crappy tires, pedals and saddle. Heck, even my $440 Kilo WT that I bought 5 years ago had awful stock tires that I changed out immediately. The important parts are the frameset, wheels and cranks, which are decent quality on the bd offerings. Also, those brakes actually work, which is more than can be said of the brakes on many fixie brands in that price range. I wouldn't fret too much over some of the cosmetic flaws on that bike you bought.

TenSpeedV2

"Compare to Bianchi Pista"

Right. Compare them because they are both bicycles?

Mambo Dave

Like TejanoTrackie stated, one other attribute that was a bonus for the price was the brakes - not only that there were two of them, but that even the brake shoes seem to be of higher quality than all the "deco/hipster" $200 bicycles.

I'm sort of kicking myself for buying the LBS's GatorSkin tire since all they had was a 700x23c, but then I guess that will slightly lower the rear gearing as I get back into cycling. I have no problem with running two different sized bicycle tires, and have done so in the past (as long as it's the rear tire that is smaller or thinner). I'll buy a 700x28 for the front and replace the rear when needed.

TejanoTrackie 

It's actually the brake calipers that are higher quality with dual pivots and thicker less flexible arms. Also, they are easier to adjust with their centering screws.

As to the tire sizes, you've got it backwards. If you have different sizes, then the smaller should be in the front and the larger should be in the rear. There is more weight on the rear tire, and running a larger rear tire allows you to use the same tire pressure as the front.

rex615

^^ This. The only time you might want more tire in the front is on surfaces with really poor traction like mud. The idea would be for the rear to "wash out" first, since having the rear wheel skid is usually controllable and loosing the front wheel will often cause a crash.

On the road, what TT suggests is the way to go. Particularly if you jump curbs and such where you land on your rear wheel.

TenSpeedV2

That Gatorskin is a great tire, and that size is nice as well. I have run those on both of my track bikes that I street ride and they have served me very well. I will continue to run them on future bikes as well. And why would the tires change the gearing? A different chainring or cog will change it, not the tires.

TejanoTrackie 

A wider tire is also taller, which increases the overall wheel diameter, which in turn increases the gearing slightly. Look at a gear calculator and you'll see what I mean.

TenSpeedV2

I fail. Didn't make sense when I initially read it. Now that you explained it, makes total sense.

Mambo Dave

A fixed gear into tropical storm winds is an interesting way to get exercise.

On the second try (the first try was shut down by the remnants of the hurricane that broke up) I was able to get in 10 miles between the rain storms. I've got a clicking and minor vibration harmonic when standing out of the saddle and pushing it hard - perhaps the headset or a spoke on the ZeroLite front wheel. It didn't feel like the bottom bracket or the pedals, but there is no doubt that the bearings are loose in this set of pedals I found to put on it.



The saddle that came with it is amazingly fine for now. It may break down with use, but for now I don't notice it. And the one area that I cannot see, no matter how I contort myself while riding (perhaps because one has to be pedaling), is that hole in the weld of the top tube; I can't see it unless I'm off of the bike. The fork steerer tube and handlebar stem come back at such an angle that they hide the defect

It's just nice to be out there riding again after so many years off. Apparently during that time off... the padding inside the high-end Bell helmet I have disintegrated. Couldn't wear it today.

SquidPuppet

For $300 I don't expect pretty welds, but I'd expect complete welds.

Mambo Dave

Update: BikesDirect replied back to my e-mail, and found a fair enough way to settle for the blemishes. I feel comfortable and safe enough riding the frame, and the honest truth is that there is not a riding position I could put myself into - especially not with it in fixed-gear mode - where I could see the hole on the end of the top tube. If I can't see it for an entire ride, then it's just a vent hole that gives the bike character.

Now keep in mind that while I now have four complete bikes (all with parts that don't work) in the house, plus an extra Mt Bike frame that I never used, I have turned into a middle-aged fat guy for all intents and purposes. So me just getting back into cycling through the adventure of a fixie was my choice (although it's the minor things that are gonna kill me - like me cutting too close to the curb today having forgotten that it wouldn't freewheel right past it). I did my third day of riding on it - a meager 10-mile loop - and am loving it. I will eventually get some handlebars that allow me to sit back a little more, but this is pretty much like a training road bike without the road bike torture-device low handlebars. ... So it's almost perfect.

I'm really not quite getting what Sheldon Brown recommended about new fixie riders being the ones who should used clips and straps, while it's the really experienced fixed gear riders who are the only ones who should consider riding with open platform pedals... I'm new to this, and have found nary a problem with my platform pedals not having straps. My spin seems fine, and it's not like my feet are flailing off of the pedals. But then I do have brakes on this fixed gear, so maybe he meant something along the lines of having to use the pedals to help stop in a more urgent fashion than I have to?

ethet 

It is strongly encouraged for everyone to implement some manner of foot retention when riding fixed--be it straps, toe clips, or clipless--because if your feet slip off the pedals there is a likely possibility that those now wildly spinning pedals will severely injure you. Besides that, if your feet lose purchase of the pedal you are instantly put into a position of being Out of Control. This opens up all realms of danger while you are distracted by trying to slow down, regain purchase of the pedal, deal with panic, et-cetera.