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Freewheel spacer for fixed gear?

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Freewheel spacer for fixed gear?

Old 03-26-16, 05:37 PM
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Freewheel spacer for fixed gear?

I just converted an old Raleigh to a single speed and I want to economize as much as possible by saving the original wheels. I have the chain rigged up to the small sprocket in front and the second cog in the back and the chain is lined up pretty good. My question is does anyone sell a spacer thingy that I can use instead of the original freewheel? Meaning, I want to buy a single cog and lock ring and use it with the original 10-speed hub. Is there a spacer I can buy to help keep the chain lined up or am I looking at a dicey situation? I want this bike to be a reliable fixie not a rigged safety nightmare.

This is not a cassette set-up. It is a true freewheel old-school 10 speed.
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Old 03-26-16, 05:46 PM
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If you have the tools to take the freeheel apart, you can replace the unwanted cogs with pieces of pipe cut to the appropriate length.

This is a similar solution to what is done with cassette type conversions.
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Old 03-26-16, 05:58 PM
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You can buy freewheel spacers from loosescrews or ebay user mtbtools

https://www.loosescrews.com/product-...l-cog-spacers/
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Old 03-26-16, 06:41 PM
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There are locking rings, for about $20 or so, that do exactly what you are asking. However, I cannot remember their name. I have them on my SSMTB.
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Old 03-26-16, 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by drlogik
This is not a cassette set-up. It is a true freewheel old-school 10 speed.
Pretty sure everyone missed the last two sentences of his post.
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Old 03-26-16, 07:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
Pretty sure everyone missed the last two sentences of his post.
Yep. The options above are used for freehubs, not freewheels.
1- You won't be able to use a reverse-threaded track lockring because there's no reverse thread section on your hub. I believe the most common solution here is to use a bottom bracket lockring plus Loctite to keep the cog secure. I've never done this.
2- If your chainline is off enough to need to be fixed, you would do it by respacing the rear axle to move the hub body closer to the drive side. You would then need to re-dish the wheel, adjusting spokes to move the rim toward the non-drive side. I've never done this.
3- Number two might not be necessary. I'm currently running a similar setup, chainring on the inside of the crank spider with a singlespeed freewheel. I'd feel fine about throwing a fixed cog on it.
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Old 03-26-16, 07:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
Pretty sure everyone missed the last two sentences of his post.
ADD....... Or just a short attention span, for me....
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