SquidPuppet

Not really because other things also affect steering and handling. It's getting the combination right that counts.

A bike with a really relaxed head tube angle already has slow steering, so it might tolerate a lower trail number better than a bike with a steep head tube. Other things will affect the overall recipe too.

I'm just speculating/assuming that that bike is already close to the ragged edge deliberately, and that's good for it's intended purpose.

seau grateau

^^ +1 If toe/crank overlap is a concern, buying a Parallax makes no sense.

_debo

@seau grateau is that picture the one of the famous 50cm one that people keep talking about?

seau grateau

It's a 50cm one.

_debo

Yep I clicked on the link eventually. And does the tyre touch the crank arm or you only have toe overlap?

seau grateau

Oh I don't know, it's not mine. I ride a bike a lot bigger than that.

_debo

Oh sorry, I thought that was yours :-)

seau grateau

Yeah I was just curious as to what one would look like really. That frame has a really tight wheelbase in general. Mine is a tiny bit different:

_debo

Nice ride... it reminds a bit of the Cervelo T1

Scrodzilla

Just because you "fall in love" with something does not mean it's right for you.

_debo

Very true, hence why I am trying to collect as much info as possible. I also booked a bike fitting follow up to make sure I make the right choice.

SquidPuppet

What is this foreign thing called toe overlap? I don't understand?

_debo

Ha! That unfair though, the rake of that fork it's uncomparable with the almost straight one of the parallax

SquidPuppet

The fact that the top tube is 64cm long doesn't hurt either.

Scrodzilla

Fork blades being curved or straight have absolutely nothing to do with rake.

_debo

Lucky you

_debo

Isn't rake the offset between the hub and the steering axis? Surely a curved blade can increase rake and definitely does the one in the picture. If that fork was straight the rake would be lower, or am I missing something?

hardboiled718

The fork can be angled at the point where it's attached at the steerer tube. A straight bladed fork with a more forward angle could give the same rake as a curved bladed fork that had less or no angle when attached to the steerer tube. I could be wrong but I was lead to believe that the curve in steel forks added a little spring to improve ride quality, as a result you don't really see curved aluminum or carbon forks.

_debo

Yes of course, but speficially, in the picture posted the curve adds rake on that specific setup, it's a clear offset from the axis, that's what I meant.

Scrodzilla

You're still missing the point.

If you drew a straight line from the fork crown to the axle in the pic above and imagined the fork's leg to follow that line instead of curving as it does, nothing would change aside from the look of the fork. The rake and trail would remain the same.

_debo

If I imagine to bend the fork back straight, surely the wheel will move back toward the bottom tube. Also if you bend the fork straight as we said the offset will be then 0mm between the axis and the hub itself, maybe I'm a bit thick but I can't think it otherwise. Surely I'm missing something.

Also in other news, this morning I went for a bike fit follow up and we draw the geometry of this frame and both me and the fitter are puzzled about the crank arm overlap. Accordingly to BikeCAD, assuming it works well, there should be none with a 165mm arm.

Scrodzilla

Yes, you surely are.

_debo

Like what? I mean, based on what you are saying/describing this picture should be wrong, then...

SquidPuppet

Look at this bike below. The fork BLADE itself is STRAIGHT. But it is fastened to the steerer tube at an angle. That creates the reake/offset. This fork has almost the same amount of rake/offset as the blue bike I pictured earlier. 45mm vs 50mm.

Use a straight edge on your monitor in line with the head tube and you will see the the axle is well in front of the steering axis.

Scrodzilla

The picture isn't wrong, your brain is.