Cycling and bicycle discussion forums. 
   Click here to join our community Log in to access your Control Panel  


Go Back   > >

Singlespeed & Fixed Gear "I still feel that variable gears are only for people over forty-five. Isn't it better to triumph by the strength of your muscles than by the artifice of a derailer? We are getting soft...As for me, give me a fixed gear!"-- Henri Desgrange (31 January 1865 - 16 August 1940)

User Tag List

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 06-24-16, 12:11 AM   #1
bike_galpal
swobogirl
Thread Starter
 
bike_galpal's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Bikes: Swobo Sanchez, Schwinn Sierra singlespeed, random frame singlespeed
Posts: 179
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
how do we all feel about 2x1, 3x1 bikes?

i've had my bike set up (badly) as a 2 by 1 for quite a while. it was my dream to have not so much a hill gear, but more a "normal" singlespeed gear, and then a FAST gear. i accomplished this with a 34/45 in the front with a 12t cog in the rear. but i've found myself using the high gear very rarely.

i'm unsure if its something with my set up (which granted is very bad - no pinned/ramped chainring and not a good shifter or location) or if its just not for me.

OR if its just to big a gear jump. 34x12 is already pretty high, i know, although had i set it up single speed i'd probably go 39x12 (its flat here) 45x12 is a lot. once i'm recovered from my injury... well, i might even go down to 34x13 for a while but at some point i'd like to try it at 39/45 x 13

anyway, tell me about your 2x1, 3x1, or experiences riding one. do you have a hill or hilly and normal, or normal and fast, or??
bike_galpal is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-24-16, 07:35 AM   #2
punkncat
LBKA
 
punkncat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: OTP South
Bikes: Spec Roubaix SL4, DawesSST
Posts: 2,591
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 17 Post(s)
I have been contemplating an IGH for my "SS".

I purpose geared a bike for the Mobile Social and Critical Mass rides here in Atl. When I first did this, the average speed for the MB was sub 9, Mass has always been much faster. To deal with hills, slowpokes, and just to keep from running up on people I set my bike up to do about 9-10mph at around a 90 cadence. Since then, both rides have gotten to be around 12-15 according to where you are. If I gear for that speed then I won't make it up some of the hills.

My thoughts have been on a Sturmey Archer or the like. That way I can keep the neat lines and not have to have an "idler" to take up chain slack.
punkncat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-24-16, 07:40 AM   #3
corrado33
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Bozeman
Bikes:
Posts: 2,400
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 153 Post(s)
What's the point of a #x1 setup? The whole point of a SS is to avoid using a rear derailleur or chain tensioner so that the setup is simple. It'd be MUCH easier to simply have gears in the back instead of having multiple chainrings.
corrado33 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 06-24-16, 08:07 AM   #4
Kindaslow
Senior Member
 
Kindaslow's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Seattlish
Bikes: Spesh Epic Expert WC, Venge Pro Race, Langster, others, and yet to be bought
Posts: 2,274
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 53 Post(s)
I have a SS MTB and a 1x11 MTB. My riding has a lots of ups and down, some very punchy hills, but rarely long slow hills. My SS is a really "good" workout, in other words it kicks my old ass. With my geared bike I sometimes get a little lazy and go granny gear, but I am ok with that. I am not going back to a 2x system. I just do not see any good reason for it nowadays.
Kindaslow is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-24-16, 10:00 AM   #5
mconlonx 
Nobody
 
mconlonx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Bikes:
Posts: 7,093
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 260 Post(s)
You will need a tensioner in order to shift, anyway, so why not combine a tensioner with a gear selector in the form of a rear derailleur? For the ratios the OP describes (39/45 x 13), the same ratios can be accomplished with 45 x 13/15. If this was my goal, I'd stick with rear shifting, disassemble an 8sp cassette, and scavenge only the cogs I needed, recycling the spacers. Also would save money and give a wider range of cogs to experiment with -- 8 cogs for cheap money vs. two or more chainrings...

One experiment I did involved a r der with the limit screws all the way in, which allowed for shifting across only 3 gears and I made them from cogs 6t or so apart, for a wide range 1 x 3 system.

But otherwise, to keep a simple drivetrain, I'd rather consider a 2 or 3sp IGH rear hub setup.

All that said, do what you want -- if it works for you, no harm in trying it out.
__________________
I know next to nothing. I am frequently wrong.
mconlonx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-24-16, 10:17 AM   #6
bike_galpal
swobogirl
Thread Starter
 
bike_galpal's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Bikes: Swobo Sanchez, Schwinn Sierra singlespeed, random frame singlespeed
Posts: 179
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
in my case, the reason i set it up this way is because a chain tensioner was cheaper and lighter, and easier to set up on my track forkends/horizontal droupouts without a derailleur hanger. i have it very simply mounted with a steel quick release replacement. i guess it was just my luck that the nut fit perfectly into the spot where the derailleur hanger bolt would go.
bike_galpal is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-24-16, 10:20 AM   #7
bike_galpal
swobogirl
Thread Starter
 
bike_galpal's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Bikes: Swobo Sanchez, Schwinn Sierra singlespeed, random frame singlespeed
Posts: 179
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
...next time i'm by my bike i'll have to get pictures of how i respaced a 130mm 9 speed rear wheel to 120mm track spacing without redishing, cause i'm pretty proud of myself for that TBH

Quote:
Originally Posted by mconlonx View Post
You will need a tensioner in order to shift, anyway, so why not combine a tensioner with a gear selector in the form of a rear derailleur? For the ratios the OP describes (39/45 x 13), the same ratios can be accomplished with 45 x 13/15. If this was my goal, I'd stick with rear shifting, disassemble an 8sp cassette, and scavenge only the cogs I needed, recycling the spacers. Also would save money and give a wider range of cogs to experiment with -- 8 cogs for cheap money vs. two or more chainrings...

One experiment I did involved a r der with the limit screws all the way in, which allowed for shifting across only 3 gears and I made them from cogs 6t or so apart, for a wide range 1 x 3 system.

But otherwise, to keep a simple drivetrain, I'd rather consider a 2 or 3sp IGH rear hub setup.

All that said, do what you want -- if it works for you, no harm in trying it out.
well, there are lots of reasons for avoiding IGH. not the least of which is the fact that you need to dedicate a wheel to it.

now you've got me thinking.... it seems a bit like i have days where i want my bigger gear and days when i dont. i already have a cassette (9 speed actually) so quite a range to choose from. maybe i do 39 and do 12 and 14 or something... with a quick release rear wheel and assuming correct chain length, it would be easy as pie to switch back and forth

HERES A THOUGHT - easier still, what if i could get a single pulley chain tensioner on there in a way that didn't interfere with the larger cog? i could have the reliability of not using a chain tensioner on one gear, and then manually switch the chain to a different gearing without having to move the wheel at all. anyone tried this before?

Last edited by bike_galpal; 06-24-16 at 10:27 AM.
bike_galpal is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-24-16, 11:37 AM   #8
lubes17319
Chronic 1st-timer
 
lubes17319's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Lakehood, CO
Bikes: ...take me places.
Posts: 1,118
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
The HonzoSSchmidt is my only geared bike, and I want for nothing else.
Gearing comes out to 32x23 for the suck & 32x15 for the fun.

Last edited by lubes17319; 06-24-16 at 09:54 PM.
lubes17319 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-24-16, 06:49 PM   #9
hairnet
Fresh Garbage
 
hairnet's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Los Angeles
Bikes:
Posts: 12,436
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 35 Post(s)
Have you considered a dingle drive? I had that on my mountain bike for some time, 36x16 and 34x18. One was my higher road gear and the other a lower dirt gear.
hairnet is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-25-16, 12:58 PM   #10
bike_galpal
swobogirl
Thread Starter
 
bike_galpal's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Bikes: Swobo Sanchez, Schwinn Sierra singlespeed, random frame singlespeed
Posts: 179
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by hairnet View Post
Have you considered a dingle drive? I had that on my mountain bike for some time, 36x16 and 34x18. One was my higher road gear and the other a lower dirt gear.
lol, guess you didn't read my last posts
bike_galpal is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-26-16, 08:09 PM   #11
veganbikes
Clark W. Griswold
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: ,location, location
Bikes: Co-Motion Cascadia, 2012 Surly Disc Trucker, Specialized Langster, Cilo Dura-Ace 12 Speed Road Bike
Posts: 2,143
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 35 Post(s)
Paul Price (of Paul Comp) made some whacky MTB with a 3X1 to test his Melvin chain tensioner but he is allowed to do things like that.

I wouldn't really want to ride a 2 OR 3X1 unless I had to manually move the chain ala WI double double crank and a surly Dingle cog or WI Dos ENO freewheel and even then I would only want to do it for a long distance hill climbing SS/FG where I might want to switch my set up to something easier. However in that case I would just use a geared bike because that makes more sense.

The only way having more gears at the front might make more sense is with one of those Pinion gear boxes because that is all internal and I could get a frame built around it that uses track drops or at least semi-horizontal drops.
veganbikes is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-26-16, 08:44 PM   #12
clubman 
Youngman Grande
 
clubman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Nova Scotia
Bikes: roadsters, club bikes, fixed and classic
Posts: 2,951
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 17 Post(s)
I know you don't want IGH but I still vote Sachs Torpedo. Duo-matics work so well, no fuss. 36% increase to second gear so a 48/20 gives you nice range. Great brake. Simple.

Also, still have limited recovery from knee replacement. PM for a healthy PT discussion.

clubman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-26-16, 09:44 PM   #13
hairnet
Fresh Garbage
 
hairnet's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Los Angeles
Bikes:
Posts: 12,436
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 35 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by bike_galpal View Post
lol, guess you didn't read my last posts
Huh? A Dingle drive is still in essence a single speed, but you get two cog/chainring combos that in theory should use the same chain length without tensioners or repositioning the wheel. As I mentioned, I had a low 34/18 and high 36/16 on my single speed. I built mine with a freehub wheel and Surly SS splined cogs. This is different from your 1x2 idea.
hairnet is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-28-16, 06:17 PM   #14
bike_galpal
swobogirl
Thread Starter
 
bike_galpal's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Bikes: Swobo Sanchez, Schwinn Sierra singlespeed, random frame singlespeed
Posts: 179
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by hairnet View Post
Huh? A Dingle drive is still in essence a single speed, but you get two cog/chainring combos that in theory should use the same chain length without tensioners or repositioning the wheel. As I mentioned, I had a low 34/18 and high 36/16 on my single speed. I built mine with a freehub wheel and Surly SS splined cogs. This is different from your 1x2 idea.
ooooohhhh wait, do you actually run dingles without re positioning your rear wheel? wow, yeah i didn't know that was part of it the whole dingle thing. yeah, that would definitely be pretty cool! so i could do uhhhh.... 39x12 and 34x17?

woah. i mean this is all so hypothetical..... by the time i get enough range of motion back, 34x17 might be like going up a hill in a windstorm at least in one leg. speaking of which, anyone know how much range of motion is needed for a 6 ft tall person to use 170mm cranks?? i might try to calculate it, but i'll probably fail, because i'm bad at math

in other news, i randomly heard about these dealios The Original Suicide Shift | Rock The Bike
apparently someone has one of these set up on track dropouts? that could be pretty rad!! i just don't understand how you keep the wheel aligned??
bike_galpal is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-28-16, 06:23 PM   #15
bike_galpal
swobogirl
Thread Starter
 
bike_galpal's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Bikes: Swobo Sanchez, Schwinn Sierra singlespeed, random frame singlespeed
Posts: 179
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by clubman View Post
I know you don't want IGH but I still vote Sachs Torpedo. Duo-matics work so well, no fuss. 36% increase to second gear so a 48/20 gives you nice range. Great brake. Simple.

Also, still have limited recovery from knee replacement. PM for a healthy PT discussion.

thanks for reaching out about knee stuff! however, they put my original one back together thankfully? i think? i'm not really sure how many similarities there are, do you know? i THINK i'm expected to recover 100% eventually, FULL range of motion might take a year... whereas i've heard knee replacements are a quicker, easier recovery but harder to get 100%? does that sound right?

in any case i'm going to get something started in this forum for general injury/recovery talk. check the off topic or maybe the training subforum for a thread.
bike_galpal is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-28-16, 10:59 PM   #16
hairnet
Fresh Garbage
 
hairnet's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Los Angeles
Bikes:
Posts: 12,436
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 35 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by bike_galpal View Post
ooooohhhh wait, do you actually run dingles without re positioning your rear wheel?
Ideally, yes, you should not have to re-position the wheel.

Quote:
in other news, i randomly heard about these dealios The Original Suicide Shift | Rock The Bike
apparently someone has one of these set up on track dropouts? that could be pretty rad!! i just don't understand how you keep the wheel aligned??
Campagnolo Cambio Corsa
you have to pedal backwards to shift

The wheel stays aligned by use of specialized drop outs. The hub has a little gear on the axle that rides along the teeth in the drop out.



Last edited by hairnet; 06-28-16 at 11:02 PM.
hairnet is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-29-16, 07:15 AM   #17
lubes17319
Chronic 1st-timer
 
lubes17319's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Lakehood, CO
Bikes: ...take me places.
Posts: 1,118
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Like hairnet, I ran a dinglespeed set-up, about 10 yrs ago on my Karate Monkey; 32x18 for single-track & 34x16 to get to/fro. Takes under a minute to change the gearing.

Everyone I knew that ever tried it used a 2 tooth difference. 5-teeth is a bit of a drastic change, but don't see why it wouldn't work.

Vid I found of the 'shift':
lubes17319 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-29-16, 03:50 PM   #18
bike_galpal
swobogirl
Thread Starter
 
bike_galpal's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Bikes: Swobo Sanchez, Schwinn Sierra singlespeed, random frame singlespeed
Posts: 179
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by hairnet View Post
Ideally, yes, you should not have to re-position the wheel.



Campagnolo Cambio Corsa
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AIZhSNdO_Zo
you have to pedal backwards to shift

The wheel stays aligned by use of specialized drop outs. The hub has a little gear on the axle that rides along the teeth in the drop out.


friggin awesome!!! thanks so much for the info! that would be a beach to actually get set up but so rad on track dropouts!! wonder why didn't they just design it for track dropouts to begin with?

Quote:
Originally Posted by lubes17319 View Post
Like hairnet, I ran a dinglespeed set-up, about 10 yrs ago on my Karate Monkey; 32x18 for single-track & 34x16 to get to/fro. Takes under a minute to change the gearing.

Everyone I knew that ever tried it used a 2 tooth difference. 5-teeth is a bit of a drastic change, but don't see why it wouldn't work.

Vid I found of the 'shift':
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yI6wAMXhNxM
yeah, i'm just thinking about parts i currently have around.... idk i honestly can't imagine myself using 34x17, as i was able to do hills on 39x12 but.... muscles are in fact deteriorating as we speak
bike_galpal is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 10:49 AM.