chain lube and noise
#1
ogre
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: arlington, va
Posts: 399
Bikes: surly steamroller fixie, '90 cannondale SR 800
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
chain lube and noise
I had been wrestling with a noisy chain for a long time. I'd messed with chain tension and chainline and chain lube, nothing really worked for any long period of time.
Anyway, I hadn't lubed my chain in a while, so one morning as I was about to leave for work, I picked up the bottle of lube that my dad uses (ahem, on his bike) and doused my chain in it. It was Finish Line ("all-weather" or something like that) as opposed to the White Lightning that I was using at the shop. Holy Moses! My bike is silent. No squeaks, but even more surprising, no clicking, no "roller-coaster-starting-up-the-hill" noises. Even back-pedaling, which usually made everything louder, is silent.
The Finish Line lube that I used is a real thick lube, almost like Phil's Tenacious Oil, as opposed to White Lightning which is mostly (i think) alcohol, mixed with solids, which gives it that "cleaning" feature.
So all this got me thinking. On a geared bike, you want to avoid over-lubing -- it just attracts lots of gunk. But on a SS or fixie, why is that a problem? Sure, a dirty drivetrain takes away some efficiency, but if it really gets to be a problem I can buy a new chain and clean the cog and chainring for oh, $15.
I'd much rather have wonderful silence due to a gunky chain than that bit of efficiency.
Anyway, I hadn't lubed my chain in a while, so one morning as I was about to leave for work, I picked up the bottle of lube that my dad uses (ahem, on his bike) and doused my chain in it. It was Finish Line ("all-weather" or something like that) as opposed to the White Lightning that I was using at the shop. Holy Moses! My bike is silent. No squeaks, but even more surprising, no clicking, no "roller-coaster-starting-up-the-hill" noises. Even back-pedaling, which usually made everything louder, is silent.
The Finish Line lube that I used is a real thick lube, almost like Phil's Tenacious Oil, as opposed to White Lightning which is mostly (i think) alcohol, mixed with solids, which gives it that "cleaning" feature.
So all this got me thinking. On a geared bike, you want to avoid over-lubing -- it just attracts lots of gunk. But on a SS or fixie, why is that a problem? Sure, a dirty drivetrain takes away some efficiency, but if it really gets to be a problem I can buy a new chain and clean the cog and chainring for oh, $15.
I'd much rather have wonderful silence due to a gunky chain than that bit of efficiency.
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 84
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I too have been wrestling with a noisy drivetrain, and have tweaked and tweaked to no lasting avail. I've been using a Finish Line product, Kyrtech. I've been thinking about doing the whole dip-the-chain-in-melted-wax thing, or possibly buying some super premium $50 chain (throw money at it, that'll solve the problem).
What sort of lube is it? Let us know if it's sorted the problem long-term.
What sort of lube is it? Let us know if it's sorted the problem long-term.
#3
Frankly, Mr. Shankly
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Chicago
Posts: 3,482
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Chains need a good dousing. If you clean your chain regularly (not thoroughly - all I do is run it through a towel with degreaser while still on the drivetrain) and then apply lube liberally (none of that one drop crap), let it set and then wipe it down again then I get a nice silent chain. It's mostly the letting it set in for me that gets a good silent chain.
I'm currently using ProLink. It's good, relatively cheap and there's quite a bit of it in the bottle. https://www.progoldmfr.com/products/prolink.html
I'm currently using ProLink. It's good, relatively cheap and there's quite a bit of it in the bottle. https://www.progoldmfr.com/products/prolink.html
Last edited by absntr; 05-15-05 at 08:19 AM.
#4
Shiftless bum
Similar issue, without getting my dropouts cold set to 120, the line is about as good as it gets so I still get a bit of noise. I use chainsaw bar lube (~$2/qt), apply it to the inside of the chainloop and that seems to do the trick. On the frame I have now, a Ciocc, I seem to be tightening the chain far more often than on my old POS. It's a real pain and I'm not sure why it's happening...
__________________
Originally Posted by operator
truneo that tuned park internal nipple wrench work ??
#5
horizontal drop out
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Calgary, AB
Posts: 52
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I use that Finish Line lube too, the all-weather "cross-country" type. It's a bit thinner than Phil oil, which I gave up on because it kept getting all "stringy" between the chain and cogs and spattering all over my spokes and chainstay. Yuck. And any wax based lube won't last more than an hour. I probably over-lube a bit, but a dirty lubed drivetrain is still faster and quieter than a dirty un-lubed or wax-lubed drivetrain.
#6
aka mattio
one of my bike buddies has stuff called BioCleaner or something, that de-lubes yer chain. run that over the chain, it removes the old lube and all the attached gunk. then lube it up. words great, even with a variety of lubes.
#7
Team Beer
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Sacramento CA
Posts: 6,339
Bikes: Too Many
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 114 Post(s)
Liked 159 Times
in
104 Posts
I used to soak my chain n 90 weight gear oil overnight. Then wipe it off and put it back on. Smells kinda bad but lasts for weeks, rain or shine.
__________________
I'm not one for fawning over bicycles, but I do believe that our bikes communicate with us, and what this bike is saying is, "You're an idiot." BikeSnobNYC
I'm not one for fawning over bicycles, but I do believe that our bikes communicate with us, and what this bike is saying is, "You're an idiot." BikeSnobNYC
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 212
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I use the same weight oil that I put in my car...10w30. I squirt it on the chain using a pump oil can, and run the cranks around a bunch of turns to really lube everything, then hold a clean cloth on the chain to wipe off the excess. I don't have chain noise, and I get really smooth shifts. Whatever works for you, keep doing it.
#9
SuperstitiousHyperrealist
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Boston
Posts: 433
Bikes: unknown road conversion, half built Benotto track
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Good tip on the White Lightning. I don't want to get into the lube debate but it is interesting that you noticed such a difference. It warrants a try at the very least. I have used Phil's Teancious Oil for years and I have also notice the "stringyness" of the consistency. If you go even in the slightest bit heavy handed with that stuff it gets all over everything, so it leaves little room for error. This makes for a tedious lubing process and I'm always on the lookout for a way to make things easier. I just figured it would be the same for all of the "alternative" lubes.
I have found the easiest/ most economical way to clean the chain is to use the 2 liter bottle method. It works surprisingly well and it allows you to collect the nasty environment hating degreaser in a bottle for later disposal. I believe Sheldon Brown has put up instructions on how to do this but I have been doing it since I was an 11 year old BMX'er. Very simple:
1) Remove chain
2) Place chain in two liter bottle
3) Pour about 1/4 to 1/2 cup of degreaser in the bottle(it is important to note that the chain need not be totally immersed in degreaser)
4) Put cap on bottle and shake for about a minute and let it sit for a few minutes
5) Repeat step 4 as many times as you wish, I only do it twice
6) Use a screwdriver or other long thin object to remove the chain from the bottle(much harder than it sounds. Most of the time I just end up cutting the bottle open)
7) Run the chain under extremely hot water for a minute or so
8) Try to shake off/wipe off as much excess water as possible let sit until dry
9) Place chain on bike and lube
This whole process takes under 15 minutes with very little work on your end and your chain comes out looking like new. Worth a shot if you clean the chain while on the bike and still have a little grit left over(it is just as easy IMO and works a ton better).
I have found the easiest/ most economical way to clean the chain is to use the 2 liter bottle method. It works surprisingly well and it allows you to collect the nasty environment hating degreaser in a bottle for later disposal. I believe Sheldon Brown has put up instructions on how to do this but I have been doing it since I was an 11 year old BMX'er. Very simple:
1) Remove chain
2) Place chain in two liter bottle
3) Pour about 1/4 to 1/2 cup of degreaser in the bottle(it is important to note that the chain need not be totally immersed in degreaser)
4) Put cap on bottle and shake for about a minute and let it sit for a few minutes
5) Repeat step 4 as many times as you wish, I only do it twice
6) Use a screwdriver or other long thin object to remove the chain from the bottle(much harder than it sounds. Most of the time I just end up cutting the bottle open)
7) Run the chain under extremely hot water for a minute or so
8) Try to shake off/wipe off as much excess water as possible let sit until dry
9) Place chain on bike and lube
This whole process takes under 15 minutes with very little work on your end and your chain comes out looking like new. Worth a shot if you clean the chain while on the bike and still have a little grit left over(it is just as easy IMO and works a ton better).
#10
無くなった
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Sci-Fi Wasabi
Posts: 5,072
Bikes: I built the Bianchi track bike back up today.
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Originally Posted by beatle bailey
and I get really smooth shifts.
#12
SuperstitiousHyperrealist
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Boston
Posts: 433
Bikes: unknown road conversion, half built Benotto track
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
True dat. As you can infer from the post above I am lazy. Therefore, I just use what's within an arms length. Even then I think it would be difficult to remove the chain since it tends to loop around itself if you know what I mean. I will give it a shot next time, though.
#13
SuperstitiousHyperrealist
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Boston
Posts: 433
Bikes: unknown road conversion, half built Benotto track
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
With a little oil your shift key can also work much smoother, allowing for ultra fast ALL CAPS TYPING!
#14
hang up your boots
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 1,574
Bikes: 84 Pinarello, Trek Liquid 30, Torker CX 24, Gromada Track
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I use prolink too. I usually take my chain off, put it in a plastic ziplock bag, pour some biodegreaser in, let it soak, i agitate (shaking the bag side to side, like a wash machine) the chain in the bag several times. Rinse with warm water, dry the chain off and then lube up with prolink. Its like a brand new chain everytime.
#15
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: SoCal - 909
Posts: 701
Bikes: IRO Jamie Roy (fixed-gear commuter), Gary Fisher Rig 29er SS, Trek Madone 5.5, Specialized Allez Comp, Marin Mt. Vision Pro, Specialized M2 Hardtail, beater Nishiki fixed-gear conversion, Gary Fisher Rig 29er SS
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Originally Posted by absntr
Chains need a good dousing. If you clean your chain regularly (not thoroughly - all I do is run it through a towel with degreaser while still on the drivetrain) and then apply lube liberally (none of that one drop crap), let it set and then wipe it down again then I get a nice silent chain. It's mostly the letting it set in for me that gets a good silent chain.
I'm currently using ProLink. It's good, relatively cheap and there's quite a bit of it in the bottle. https://www.progoldmfr.com/products/prolink.html
I'm currently using ProLink. It's good, relatively cheap and there's quite a bit of it in the bottle. https://www.progoldmfr.com/products/prolink.html
Do you follow the instructions on the bottle which say to apply liberally before wiping clean and then *reapply*? My chain is pretty quiet if I do that, but that uses a lot of lube too, and "relatively cheap" when you're talking about chain-lube is still pretty expensive.
-Trevor
#16
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 129
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Great tip with the bottle. I usually just end up using a brush and bucket with degreaser while the chain was still on the bike, and then a subsequent scrub with warm water. I will take it off next time.
#18
Mo' Senior
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Ottawa, ON
Posts: 371
Bikes: 1984 Norco Monterey SL (Ishwata 3X butted), matte black, 42-15 fixed
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
When I do a bottle rinse, I loop a little bit of string through the last link of the chain, and keep the ends out of the bottle. If you use a thin string, the bottle still seals tight. When you're done, hold onto the string (if you don't, it may get sucked into the bottle when you open it), undo the lid, and pull the chain out. No struggle, no coathangers. Dead easy. I think I got that idea from Sheldon.