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Singlespeed & Fixed Gear "I still feel that variable gears are only for people over forty-five. Isn't it better to triumph by the strength of your muscles than by the artifice of a derailer? We are getting soft...As for me, give me a fixed gear!"-- Henri Desgrange (31 January 1865 - 16 August 1940)

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Old 05-24-05, 01:12 PM   #1
Terror_in_pink
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Brakeless!

I went to my local bike shop yesterday and used their stand and tools. I changed my cog so i have a lower gearing now. I also changed the fork and put my track fork back on.

What an effing beyotch it can be to take a lockring off. Grrr.

Having a lower gearing really helps with skidding and stuff. I went from 77 gear inches to 72. while i can't tell a huge difference in terms of pushing on flats, i can tell a difference climbing and skidding. What a relief, it feels really good.

Also, I am now able to bust impromptu (sp?) skids, meaning i can do those short sexy quick skids instead of setting up, getting way low, and skidding way long.

word.
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Old 05-24-05, 01:26 PM   #2
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how is it going fast, can you still go as fast as you could, or do you find yourself spinning out too much?
im on 86.5 inches, i can get to 30 and then i start to spin out and bounce on my seat
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Old 05-24-05, 01:45 PM   #3
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Funny. I just started thinking about getting a new fork so I could add a brake to my Gios. It soon may be my only bike, so I would be riding through some hairy downtown traffic. Plus I'm rolling on tubulars......
Good luck!
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Old 05-24-05, 01:47 PM   #4
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get a helmet. please.
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Old 05-24-05, 01:54 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onelesscar
how is it going fast, can you still go as fast as you could, or do you find yourself spinning out too much? im on 86.5 inches, i can get to 30 and then i start to spin out and bounce on my seat
You should actually gear down and work on your spin or take a look at your cranks. That's only about 120 rpm which is pretty low when you consider that your target cadence should be around 90 rpm (which is around 23 mph at that gear) for optimum efficiency and power.

With some conditioning, you should be able to hit 150 rpm without too much trouble. That's around 39 mph on that gear.
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Old 05-24-05, 02:08 PM   #6
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i can go at 23 fine, but 30 is a bit to much. i dont think its my spin technique, coz ive been riding for a couple of years all the time...
i have 165's but so does everyone?
how do you work out the rpm to mph?
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Old 05-24-05, 02:11 PM   #7
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Another question, how do you calculate gear inches?
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Old 05-24-05, 02:13 PM   #8
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you get someone else to do it http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gears/
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Old 05-24-05, 02:14 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onelesscar
i can go at 23 fine, but 30 is a bit to much. i dont think its my spin technique, coz ive been riding for a couple of years all the time...
i have 165's but so does everyone?
how do you work out the rpm to mph?

see: http://www.analyticcycling.com/GearC...peed_Page.html
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Old 05-24-05, 02:14 PM   #10
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TIP...

What were you running front and rear gear wise?
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Old 05-24-05, 02:17 PM   #11
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Me? 48 x 15
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Old 05-24-05, 02:37 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by delay
Another question, how do you calculate gear inches?
= (Chainring teeth / Cog teeth) x Rear Tire diameter (this varies with tires and pressure)
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Old 05-24-05, 02:39 PM   #13
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From 44x15 to 44x16
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Ode to the after work nap ( ride your bike instead)

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Old 05-24-05, 02:43 PM   #14
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question. have you guys heard anything about it being easier or more to dfficult to lock up the rear depending on the combination of teeth on cog/chainring. I'm not talking in terms of a high gearing.
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Old 05-24-05, 04:27 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onelesscar
i can go at 23 fine, but 30 is a bit to much. i dont think its my spin technique, coz ive been riding for a couple of years all the time...
Your technique won't be as tight as it should be if you've been mashing that gear the whole time.

I top out about 38 mph ona 77" gear and I know there are folks here who spin faster than me, too.
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Old 05-24-05, 04:32 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Terror_in_pink
question. have you guys heard anything about it being easier or more to dfficult to lock up the rear depending on the combination of teeth on cog/chainring. I'm not talking in terms of a high gearing.
heard? nope
mathematically, i dont see a reason for it... still force vs work... crank length, though, would make a difference
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Old 05-24-05, 05:33 PM   #17
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There is a skid patch zone. I remember being baffled by it. Without rotating the tire it will only skid on certain places depending on the gearing. Ken Cox's 48x18 thread has a post about halfway down. I remember reading that link, but it seems to be down now.

edit: link to thread
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Old 05-24-05, 06:11 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bostontrevor
Your technique won't be as tight as it should be if you've been mashing that gear the whole time.

I top out about 38 mph ona 77" gear and I know there are folks here who spin faster than me, too.
that is pretty amazing...
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Old 05-24-05, 06:55 PM   #19
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set me straight here, i'm not hip to yall's skidding, but from the title it sounds like you just lock up your rear wheel and skid to a stop. Why, if i am correct, would you increase your stopping distance by skidding all the while not having any brakes?
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Old 05-24-05, 07:13 PM   #20
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the number of skid patches isn't going to affect the easy/difficulty of skidding, just the resultant tire wear. skidding difficulty seems contingent upon two things -- difficulty of your gearing ratio, and, not unimportantly, the friction coefficient of your tire to the surface you're riding on. that is, looser or wetter surfaces (or frozen) will be easier to skid on. also, the slicker your tire, the easier it will be to initiate a skid. i had this michelin axial pro on my gitane's rear wheel for a little while, and i lost traction a few times just mashing up a paved hill.
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Old 05-24-05, 09:23 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Terror_in_pink
question. have you guys heard anything about it being easier or more to dfficult to lock up the rear depending on the combination of teeth on cog/chainring. I'm not talking in terms of a high gearing.

I wasn't talking about the patch zone bit, though i do know about it. And i know about gearing and friction in terms of skidding, wasn't talking about that either. This kid yesterday was trying to tell me that regardless of gearing that certain ratios make skidding easier/more diffiuclt because of the tooth combinations. This made no sense to me either...just checking in to see if anyone else had heard this shet.
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Ode to the after work nap ( ride your bike instead)

Ode to the nap
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Old 05-24-05, 09:46 PM   #22
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sounds like crapola.
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Old 05-24-05, 09:47 PM   #23
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really, if you could have read that one link that is busted. I think that might be the deal.

ow well.
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Old 05-25-05, 03:28 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Terror_in_pink
question. have you guys heard anything about it being easier or more to dfficult to lock up the rear depending on the combination of teeth on cog/chainring. I'm not talking in terms of a high gearing.
nope, i've never heard of something like that. the only thing that i've heard concerning different combinations is that with a smaller cog and ring the bike will feel harder and more direct, and with a bigger cog and ring more soft and smooth. i think sprinters usually run smaller combinations because of this.
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Old 05-25-05, 03:47 AM   #25
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My 2 bobs worth...

46:18 is 69 gear inches.

I worked in SF running 69GI and was fine, except for the Taylor See-saw. Raced MT6 and came 3rd.

Seems to work awright.

Skidding is a blend of frame geometry and inches. But you knew that

Tomorrow is week 3 no riding.
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