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  1. #1
    Senior Member p3ntuprage's Avatar
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    DAMN MOTHERFU<KING PIECE OF SHI+ DERAILLEURS

    ARRRRRGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHHHHH

    i knew there was a reason fixed was a good idea. i knew it.

    but it has a derailleur [a shiny campy one], and i can't afford a fixed hub right now.

    i've just spent the entire afternoon trying to set up the damn thing, only to find that it won't shift to the lowest gear, or then the highest gear, or both. and all i have to show for it fu<ked shifter cable [binned], a cut-up index finger and a split nail.

    i'll admit that i'm no expert at this. hell, novice might be overstating my skills. but fu<k derailleurs.

    fsnl
    sparky
    http://www.anarchistblackcross.org/i...ls/blkred2.jpgwithout a worker's army, the workers have nothing.[img]

  2. #2
    hello roadfix's Avatar
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    Knowing total mechanix of the traditional geared bike is only one of prerequisites of the previledge of owning and riding fixed.
    Last edited by roadfix; 06-12-05 at 02:10 PM.
    .cinelli.olympic.surly.long.haul.trucker.kona.ku.surly.steamroller.
    .litespeed.classic.litespeed.firenze.bianchi.pista.dean.colonel.plus.more.

  3. #3
    Retrogrouch in Training bostontrevor's Avatar
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    Some things to check:

    Are you adjusting both the high and low limit screws? As long as you have shifters that pull an appropriate amount of cable it should work. Check your derailer hanger to see if it's bent. If it's bent, the der won't lie in-plane with the sprockets

  4. #4
    ... tlupfer's Avatar
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    If your equipment says, "Made in Japan" on it then you need to trade it for stuff that says "Made in Italy". Note: this does not apply to track equipment.

  5. #5
    Retrogrouch in Training bostontrevor's Avatar
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    If your equipment says "Made in Japan" you probably can't afford it any more than if it said "Made in Italy".

    But the point is well taken, after all, we all know what trash Bridgestone and Miyata put out. Quick, a I know a place where you can probably flat out trade that crappy old Specialized for a fine Italian-made gaspipe bike with only the finest in stamped lugs!

    While there is only one particular bike model to choose from, I can get it for you in a wide array of colors AND BRAND NAMES!

    Please, be less dumb.

  6. #6
    Vello Kombi, baby Poguemahone's Avatar
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    "If your equipment says, "Made in Japan" on it then you need to trade it for stuff that says "Made in Italy"."

    I've got some Ofmega groups I'd gladly trade for Suntour Superbe. PM me! I've got an old Torpado frame, be glad to take a Bridgestone RB1 or Panasonic DX5000 in trade. Heck yes!

    OP, check the limit screws on the derailleur; they're the most likely culprit.
    "It's always darkest right before it goes completely black"

    Waste your money! Buy my comic book!

  7. #7
    I am an incurable. delay's Avatar
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    This question is a bit vague. Is this the derailer that came with the bike? Is it the front or rear that you are having problems with? Is it indexed? These are all important questions. It is possible that the derailer is not designed for the number of cogs/chainrings you are running. When you say it doesn't shift onto the smallest ring/cog, do you mean that it doesn't go that far, or that when it does it rattles?

    Regardless, derailers are tricky SOBs. Be more specific about what you are trying to do.

  8. #8
    Senior Member p3ntuprage's Avatar
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    i wasn't asking for help [yet]. i'll do that tomorrow after my dad wields an allen key at it, and gets as pissed off as i did. this was just a general rant against derailleurs.

    the basic story is: it was a vague bargain of a bike with a seven speed block and campy derailleur on the back, connected to a shimano bar-end friction shifter.

    i have a feeling that's where my problems are starting. but yeah... i was playing with the adjuster screws like a pro, and it seemed like the shifter just wasn't moving enough cable for all seven gears. the fact that someone was apparently using this set-up fine before confuses me.

    i'll find out tomorrow when i'm less pissed off with derailleurs and have an extra pair of hands.

    fsnl
    sparky
    http://www.anarchistblackcross.org/i...ls/blkred2.jpgwithout a worker's army, the workers have nothing.[img]

  9. #9
    Retrogrouch in Training bostontrevor's Avatar
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    What you can do is instead of using the shifter or in addition to the shifter, adjust the der so that it just reaches the highest gear when lever is all the way forward. As you shift it down (pulling cable) and hit the lowest gear you can, see if you can manually pull more cable by simply grabbing the shifter cable itself with your fingers. This assumes that you have exposed cable. If you don't have a large expane of exposed cable, try grabbing it with a pair of needle-nosed pliers and pulling but be careful not to accidentally crimp the cable in the process.

    If you can pull a little more cable manually to get it to shift into your bottom gear, then your problem is that your levers don't pull enough cable. If you're mechanically clever, you might be able to rig something up to make it pull more cable though the cleanest solution is to get a lever that pulls the right amount.

    This also assumes that you are having problems with the rear der which is most common, in my experience.

  10. #10
    shoot up or shut up. isotopesope's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tlupfer
    If your equipment says, "Made in Japan" on it then you need to trade it for stuff that says "Made in Italy". Note: this does not apply to track equipment.
    huh. my i love my d-a 10 on my guerciotti. works spendidly. oh wait, shimano isn't hip. shucks.

  11. #11
    Senior Member p3ntuprage's Avatar
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    and all done.

    after putting chain on the largest gear and setting the limit screw fully in [but that still didn't get the derailleur far enough inwards], i set the shifter at about 1/5 less than fully back, and physically held the derailleur against the spokes whilst securing the shifter cable.

    then let go, and the slack in the cable, and a little tweeking of the limit screw got me where i wanted.

    i then went up the gears and set the other limit screw.

    my first derailleur. i should be so proud. but i'm in the wrong forum for that.

    my next bike's going to be singlespeed. at the very least.

    fsnl
    sparky
    http://www.anarchistblackcross.org/i...ls/blkred2.jpgwithout a worker's army, the workers have nothing.[img]

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by p3ntuprage
    DAMN MOTHERFU<KING PIECE OF SHI+ DERAILLEURS

    ARRRRRGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHHHHH

    i knew there was a reason fixed was a good idea. i knew it.

    but it has a derailleur [a shiny campy one], and i can't afford a fixed hub right now.

    i've just spent the entire afternoon trying to set up the damn thing, only to find that it won't shift to the lowest gear, or then the highest gear, or both. and all i have to show for it fu<ked shifter cable [binned], a cut-up index finger and a split nail.

    i'll admit that i'm no expert at this. hell, novice might be overstating my skills. but fu<k derailleurs.

    fsnl
    sparky
    What is the capacity of the der you are using and what is the ring/cog difference you try to make it shift?
    Chain lenght and pulley tension (small screw on the underside controls it) as well as limit screws already mentioned can be an issue as well. Besides, the latter should be used only to prevent throwing the chain into spokes or the fork, as opposed to placing the chain on the biggest/smallest cog respectively.

    Campy Record/Chorus drivetrain I am using on my roadie shifts smoother than anything I have tried ever before.

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