My flip-flop hub (and the fg-conversion it gave birth to) had just turned 2 months old yesterday. I was coming to a stop last night when I felt got that disconcerting feeling of coasting on a bike that is expressly not intended to do so. When I stopped I saw the lockring was popped off and there was a 15cm corkscrew of aluminum attached to it. I was heartbroken.
1) Was it something I did? Granted I just now learned to skid after buying a new front rim (can now hand-brake accurately) and a set of armadillo-no-grip-treads, and granted it was a crappy Suzue hub... But did I install my cog/ring improperly by just screwing them on "finger-tight" then letting my constant starting and stopping tighten it? or should I have used a chainwhip and a lockring tool to tighten them? I thought these were only for taking it off...Should I have used loc-tite even though I have a proper track hub? wouldn't that mean I'm stuck with one cog forever?
2) What should I do to fix it? just red loctite the sucker? Get the wheel rebuilt at yojimbo's? I still haven't used the flip side of my flip-flop hub..isn't there some kind of lockring for that side? Should I weld it? I don't feel too safe with _just_ loc-tite.
Centurion and Carlton touring bikes, junky Helkama city bike
The amount of torque transferred to the cog is the torque applied at the crank DIVIDED BY the gain ratio.
For instance, I ride 40x16 (it's mountain-galore around here... and I'm a bookworm), a 2.5 gain ratio. 140 lbs (my weight... gives you an idea of possible operational loading) applied to my 170 mm cranks transfers 374.8 in-lbs of torque. that only requires 32 pounds of force on a 12" chainwhip.
You see where I'm headed with this? you can develop a LOT more torque with the same force if you just use a chainwhip. this is good, because you DON'T want to exceed this while back-pedalling.