Originally Posted by r0cket-
Just wondering whether anyone has stripped the cog or lockring threads on one of these hubs. I'm debating whether the extra $20-$30 I'd have to spend to get them logoless and fixed/fixed, rather than logoless and fixed/free, is worth it. I'd only run one cog on them in any case, but it's nice to know I can still use the other side in a fixed configuration if I screw up the first set of threads. But then, if nobody has problems with them stripping to begin with, that might not be necessary.
So, any horror stories?
I can't talk about the Formula hubs because I don't have a lot of experience w/ them.
But in our experience, fixed/fixed is a perfectly good design.
After selling hundreds of fixed/fixed hubs, both 135s and 120s, this has been our experience:
- customers use them in all combinations of fixed and freewheel configurations
- using a freewheel on the fixed threads is no problem
- one hub's threads failed while being used w/ a VERY high quality freewheel
- this lead us to believe that its threads were somehow compromised in production
- no other threads have been broken while using freewheels
- a few threads have been broken when used with low quality track cogs and lockrings
- no threads have been broken when using Dura Ace or EAI cogs and lockrings
And let me summarize by saying that if you're building a rear wheel, it is wise to use a high quality hub in order to avoid the larger cost of rebuilding a wheel. And it is wise to use high quality cogs and lockrings in order to avoid ruining a hub and thus having to rebuild the wheel.
The place where quality counts the most (and where it make most sense to spend money to get that quality) is in the rear hub/cog/lockring.