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Thread: Grease

  1. #1
    jack of one or two trades Aeroplane's Avatar
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    Grease

    I'm doing a couple conversions right now, and am putting together a couple of threaded headsets and a pair of Ashtabula cranks for the first time, as well as various other threaded parts (pedals, cogs/freewheels, etc.)

    I know I'm going to need grease. The question I have is, should I use a special kind of grease? Right now I have a tub of White Lithium grease under my sink. It is greasy. But, when I go to the bike shop, Hans (mechanic) has a tub of Crest Mint Gel-looking grease. Obviously, there is a difference. Does it matter though? Is there a special "bike grease"? Will using the white grease ruin everything?
    Quote Originally Posted by Dr Irwin Goldstein
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    the most irrational form of exercise I could ever bring to discussion.

  2. #2
    shoot up or shut up. isotopesope's Avatar
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    don't use lithium grease. that stuff tends to sort of turn gummy over time. i used it a few years ago on some pedals for lack of anything else. they seized up in the cranks and i had to torch the crap out of it to bust them free.

    the green stuff was probably park grease. i use that stuff. a tub if it will probably last you a few years and works great.

  3. #3
    Senior Member Surferbruce's Avatar
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    i use mobil 1 synthetic. great stuff and available at your local auto parts store.

  4. #4
    jack of one or two trades Aeroplane's Avatar
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    Needing a torch = reason enough to spring for the Park Grease.

    Thanks very much. Will stop by the LBS on the ride home from work. Now to finish up the painting!
    Quote Originally Posted by Dr Irwin Goldstein
    Men should never ride bicycles. Riding should be banned and outlawed. It is
    the most irrational form of exercise I could ever bring to discussion.

  5. #5
    Retrogrouch in Training bostontrevor's Avatar
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    Just about any grease will do you up nice. Stay away from the cheapest of the cheap x-mart brand as they use a soap base that tends to separate out after time and the entire mess just dries up.

    Otherwise lithium ain't bad, synthetics are just fine, marine bearing grease is supposed to be extremely water resistant and quite cheap.

    Of course Park will do you fine, too.

    Head over to the mechanics forum if you want to get the full lowdown on your grease options.
    Last edited by bostontrevor; 09-16-05 at 08:12 PM.

  6. #6
    MADE IN HONG KONG
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    Additional Question, does all the old grease have to be striped off prior to introducing a new type or brand of grease? Repacking headsets and old loose bearing hubs this weekend and am confused as beans

  7. #7
    Retrogrouch in Training bostontrevor's Avatar
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    It depends. If the grease is still clean, you can just pile on more grease. If it's contaminated, the whole reason you're replacing it is to get good clean grease in there. So wipe out the races good and clean (not just close, but very clean or you'll hear/feel the grit from the contaminants). Degrease the bearings if you're reusing, rinse with water, and dry thoroughly.

  8. #8
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    While your at it, replace the ball bearings also. They're only like $.10 each at your LBS. New grease/new balls = smoooth sweetness.

  9. #9
    Yay!11! I has!!!1 ImOnCrank's Avatar
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    for hubs phil grease works like a charm
    Bloodstains, speed kills, fast bikes, cheap thrills, French girls, fine wine...

  10. #10
    blacksheep the blemish
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    Replacing the bearings when overhauling is not an option, it is imperative. They have over time worn into a pattern where they are ovalized but still work as ball bearings and when you take them out, you screw up that order. Your races will most certainly be worse for the wear in no time doing that.

    I am just so adamant about this because I've seen people around who have this idea that you can reuse bearings.

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