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  1. #1
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    locking my solid axle wheels

    So i just bought a new set of wheels on Formula hubs, and apparently they can't be rethreaded with quick-release axles because of their construction... this sucks because i wanted to put my locking skewers on the wheels so i wouldn't have to haul around an extra lock/cable for the front wheel... anyone have any tips/tricks/solutions for how one might secure a bolt-on wheel to a bike to make it unsavory to the thieves that might like to steal my shiny new wheels?

  2. #2
    Senior Member auroch's Avatar
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    i've heard of two strategies

    1. use two different sized nuts so the potential thief has to
    have two wrenches (or one adjustable)

    2. use BMX pegs so said thief has to have a deep socket
    extension

    that's all I've got

  3. #3
    crotchety young dude el twe's Avatar
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    Eh, I wouldn't trust QRs on a fixie. I've heard baaaad things. Just carry around a little cable lock - they're light and reasonably theft proof (just the fact that it's there).
    Quote Originally Posted by CardiacKid View Post
    I explained that he could never pay me enough cash for the amount of work I had put into that bike and the only way to compensate me for it was to ride the hell out of it.
    IRO Angus Casati Gold Line

  4. #4
    Rebel Thousandaire Ya Tu Sabes's Avatar
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    You could always try to find a fork lock of some sort. (I know they make more modern ones, but that's all I could find.)

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by el twe
    Eh, I wouldn't trust QRs on a fixie. I've heard baaaad things.
    Oh yea? What things have you heard about QRs on a fixie? Source?

    I have been running QR on my fixie since its inception, and haven't had a single problem.

    No slippage. EVER.

  6. #6
    Beausage is Beautiful Fugazi Dave's Avatar
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    If you were careless and didn't tighten down enough, I could see why a QR in back would be bad, but having a QR up front is more convenient to me. I think I'd feel a little nervous with a QR in back on a track bike, but if you actually make sure it's tightened down well, I guess there's no real reason why it wouldn't be OK.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Fugazi Dave
    If you were careless and didn't tighten down enough, I could see why a QR in back would be bad, but having a QR up front is more convenient to me. I think I'd feel a little nervous with a QR in back on a track bike, but if you actually make sure it's tightened down well, I guess there's no real reason why it wouldn't be OK.
    What would happen if you were careless with your bolt on hubs, and didn't tighten them enough?

    There's no rearon to fear a QR. Adding the word "track" doesn't change anything, either.

    Serated Steel QRs, paired with quality steel dropouts, and steel hub locknut faces don't slip. Period. Add aluminum into this equation, all bets are off.
    Last edited by BostonFixed; 09-20-05 at 04:50 PM.

  8. #8
    crotchety young dude el twe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BostonFixed
    Oh yea? What things have you heard about QRs on a fixie? Source?

    I have been running QR on my fixie since its inception, and haven't had a single problem.

    No slippage. EVER.
    I thought I'd heard some horror stories here, and Sheldon advises against it (under normal circumstances), although he has one himself. I just wouldn't trust myself to set it up perfectly. I slipping QR on a roadie is much less of a concern (unless you're going super fast downhill) than on a fixie, it seems. But hey, if it works, it works!

    EDIT: Sorry, I thought cusack meant a rear wheel. Front should be no problem. That's what I'll be doing...
    Quote Originally Posted by CardiacKid View Post
    I explained that he could never pay me enough cash for the amount of work I had put into that bike and the only way to compensate me for it was to ride the hell out of it.
    IRO Angus Casati Gold Line

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    Wow, my question quickly derailed into a debate over skewers v bolts... for the record... my old set-up consisted of a bolt-on rear with a quick-release front hub secured with a locking skewer... a friend of mine rides a singlespeed geared at around 52-16 and used to pull off his rear wheel going up hills... he recently switched to locking skewers and hasn't had the problem... regardless, it looks like i will be resigned to carrying around an extra cable... thanks for the tips! (oh and i am not trying to snark about the change of topic... i realized there probably wasn't a lot of info for what i was asking)

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by BostonFixed
    What would happen if you were careless with your bolt on hubs, and didn't tighten them enough?

    There's no rearon to fear a QR. Adding the word "track" doesn't change anything, either.

    Seratted Steel QRs, paired with quality steel dropouts, and seratted steel hub locknut faces don't slip. Period. Add aluminum into this equation, all bets are off.
    Personally I find it much easier to tighten track nuts than a QR. If I had a QR on my fixed gear however I would be sure to tighten it down as much as possible.

  11. #11
    Gone, but not forgotten Sheldon Brown's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by el twe
    I thought I'd heard some horror stories here, and Sheldon advises against it (under normal circumstances)...
    No I don't! Skewers rule, but only if they're good skewers. There are so many junky exposed-cam skewers out there that they've given them all a bad name, but good skewers properly secured hold well in most cases.

    See: http://sheldonbrown.com/qr for the skinny on good vs bad skewers.

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  12. #12
    crotchety young dude el twe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sheldon Brown
    No I don't! Skewers rule, but only if they're good skewers. There are so many junky exposed-cam skewers out there that they've given them all a bad name, but good skewers properly secured hold well in most cases.

    See: http://sheldonbrown.com/qr for the skinny on good vs bad skewers.

    Sheldon "Quick Release" Brown
    Oops. My mistake! I thought I had read on your site that it could be pretty iffy. Well, carry on.
    Quote Originally Posted by CardiacKid View Post
    I explained that he could never pay me enough cash for the amount of work I had put into that bike and the only way to compensate me for it was to ride the hell out of it.
    IRO Angus Casati Gold Line

  13. #13
    Bikes are Fun honduraz10's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cusack
    Wow, my question quickly derailed into a debate over skewers v bolts... for the record... my old set-up consisted of a bolt-on rear with a quick-release front hub secured with a locking skewer... a friend of mine rides a singlespeed geared at around 52-16 and used to pull off his rear wheel going up hills... he recently switched to locking skewers and hasn't had the problem... regardless, it looks like i will be resigned to carrying around an extra cable... thanks for the tips! (oh and i am not trying to snark about the change of topic... i realized there probably wasn't a lot of info for what i was asking)
    just get some phil hex key track nuts and glue some bearings in there. it'll be fairly safe...
    ride those things!!

  14. #14
    Gone, but not forgotten Sheldon Brown's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by honduraz10
    just get some phil hex key track nuts and glue some bearings in there. it'll be fairly safe...
    Unlike most track hubs, Phils use bolts, not nuts. The Phil bolts don't work with any other hub.

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  15. #15
    Frankly, Mr. Shankly absntr's Avatar
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    If you get Phils, you can run the locking skewers with the QR adaptor conversion kit that Phil sells.

    Read this thread: Locking Skewers for Track Bike?

    Unaesthetic did this:


  16. #16
    Bikes are Fun honduraz10's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sheldon Brown
    Unlike most track hubs, Phils use bolts, not nuts. The Phil bolts don't work with any other hub.

    Sheldon "Phils Are The Best" Brown
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    ahhhh. i thought that the phils were nuts that somehow worked with an allen key, but now that you say that i realize that doesnt make sense.
    ride those things!!

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by cusack
    So i just bought a new set of wheels on Formula hubs, and apparently they can't be rethreaded with quick-release axles because of their construction...
    Anyone know specifically why a quick-release axle can't be used with this hub? Or more generally, is there a rule of thumb that determines QR/bolt-on axle interchangeability?

  18. #18
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    that pitlock site is fairly terrible... but i got this far into it...

    http://216.239.39.104/translate_c?hl...%26rls%3Den-us

    from what i can tell, that would be perfect... (if these Formula hubs have the same size axles as are listed compatible) but of course they don't sell them in the US... i think i will contact them and become the first US distributor... i am gonna make a million dollars! thanks all...

  19. #19
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    oops... broken link... sorry.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by 0x4C
    Anyone know specifically why a quick-release axle can't be used with this hub? Or more generally, is there a rule of thumb that determines QR/bolt-on axle interchangeability?

    they are sealed cartridge hubs... i guess if you take them apart, they won't go back together...

  21. #21
    i don't stop travsi's Avatar
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    i'm not for using qr on a fix, but if you had chain tugs, then there should be no issue. in fact a chain tug on the drive side should hinder any type of slippage.

  22. #22
    Al noisebeam's Avatar
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    Why not just slightly loosen the front wheel, remove it and lock it up against the rear wheel thru the frame?
    Al

  23. #23
    d_D
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    Quote Originally Posted by 0x4C
    Anyone know specifically why a quick-release axle can't be used with this hub? Or more generally, is there a rule of thumb that determines QR/bolt-on axle interchangeability?
    Generally if the hub uses cartridge bearings it needs a specific axle.
    The axle needs a smooth surface of the correct diameter for the cartridge bearing to sit on. Many also have a step to prevent the bearing from being pushed too far onto the axle.
    Since different hubs use different size bearings and position them differently in the hub shell axles are not interchangeable between different hubs.

    There is nothing stopping the manufacturer or a third party from producing a qr axle for a particular hub but I expect this doesn't happen because demand for qr fixed hubs is very low. Looks like phil may be the only fixed hubs where this is an option.
    Last edited by d_D; 09-21-05 at 01:39 PM.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by travsi
    i'm not for using qr on a fix, but if you had chain tugs, then there should be no issue. in fact a chain tug on the drive side should hinder any type of slippage.
    Tugs or not, there is no issue. If taking your wheels off with a flick of the wrist scares you, then by all means don't run a QR.

    el twe- see what ****ty infomation causes?

  25. #25
    foo
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    Quote Originally Posted by cusack
    they are sealed cartridge hubs... i guess if you take them apart, they won't go back together...
    That can't be accurate, because you can take the axle out to replace the bearings. I think I'm convinced by the argument that nobody probably makes a QR axle that fits it, that makes complete sense now that I think about it.

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