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Thread: wheel building

  1. #51
    Gone, but not forgotten Sheldon Brown's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ImOnCrank
    So should i go 3 or 4x for my first 36 spoke wheel? What's the diff?
    Cross 3. There's no benefit whatever to cross 4 for a 36 spoke wheel, just heavier and uses oddball length spokes. Also makes lacing/spoke replacement harder because the leading/trailing spokes cross over the heads of the trailing/leading spokes, getting in the way.

    Sheldon "3" Brown

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  2. #52
    Yay!11! I has!!!1 ImOnCrank's Avatar
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    Thanks a ton man. Now on to the website... if only Harris had Miche hubs for just a bit cheaper. Oh well, wish me luck.
    Bloodstains, speed kills, fast bikes, cheap thrills, French girls, fine wine...

  3. #53
    Gone, but not forgotten Sheldon Brown's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ImOnCrank
    Thanks a ton man. Now on to the website... if only Harris had Miche hubs for just a bit cheaper. Oh well, wish me luck.
    We're on the verge of discontinuing offering the Miche hubs, there are so many much nicer ones out there for less money. I only keep 'em on to show we have a great selection of fixed gear stuff.

    Surly or IRO hubs are way better.

    Sheldon "Not A Miche Fan" Brown
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  4. #54
    Gone, but not forgotten Sheldon Brown's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ImOnCrank
    Thanks a ton man. Now on to the website... if only Harris had Miche hubs for just a bit cheaper. Oh well, wish me luck.
    We're on the verge of discontinuing offering the Miche hubs, there are so many much nicer ones out there for less money. I only keep 'em on to show we have a great selection of fixed gear stuff.

    Surly or IRO hubs are way better.

    Sheldon "Not A Miche Fan" Brown
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  5. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sheldon Brown
    If you get a stick caught in your spokes, you're liable to bust some spokes, but it doesn't usually damage the rim.

    Very unusual for a rim to get "ripped apart" because the spoke tension holds it together.

    Sheldon "Tires Protect Rims" Brown
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    that's why i'm tired of using Mavic rims, the metal has a lousy grain. they stress crack way too easy!

  6. #56
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    oh gee... this is the SINGLESPEED & FIXED GEAR forum. Some of you are stuck in first gear!

  7. #57
    Yay!11! I has!!!1 ImOnCrank's Avatar
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    Alright so i got the F*ckers laced and i'm working on truing and tensioning em up now but I've got two main problems.

    1) When it comes to vertical truing (aka roundness) Sheldon's site mentions something about "the highest high spot on the rim." I'm pretty sure this is a dumb question but highest which way. It's farthest away from the hub yeah?

    2) How in the hell do i get from truing (with the spokes a bit slack) to tensioning without the damned thing going completely to hell? It's infuriating.

    Much love for any help,
    Jack
    Bloodstains, speed kills, fast bikes, cheap thrills, French girls, fine wine...

  8. #58
    Dirty White Boy SirrusPackage's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ImOnCrank
    Alright so i got the F*ckers laced and i'm working on truing and tensioning em up now but I've got two main problems.

    1) When it comes to vertical truing (aka roundness) Sheldon's site mentions something about "the highest high spot on the rim." I'm pretty sure this is a dumb question but highest which way. It's farthest away from the hub yeah?

    2) How in the hell do i get from truing (with the spokes a bit slack) to tensioning without the damned thing going completely to hell? It's infuriating.

    Much love for any help,
    Jack
    (1) Vertical is the hardest one to deal with. I usually wait until I've tensioned and trued laterally once before assessing vertical, which shouldn't be that off to begin with if you have a good rim. "Highest high" means the furthest from the hub.

    (2) It will go all to hell (at least a bit) once you've tensioned. Then you get to "final truing." It will look a little crazy (or maybe that's just me), but I always tension before I do the last truing, then destress, true, and repeat as necessary. I don't get so caught up with having everything tensioned within a strict tolerance of each other, so long as I've acheived a minimal tension and when destressing, don't lose any trueness.

  9. #59
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    I got a question to throw in here too...

    I'm building up a rear fixed wheel (see fEeDbAcK pLeAsE !! [conversion/hubs/paint] )...

    Yesterday I spent all evening at my community LBS here in Ithaca, NY (the one where you can actually use the shop and everything in it, and there are no products for sale...yes...very cool) pretty much just stripping everything down from my bike, and overhauling before I begin my build (hub still being sent to BikeWorksNYC...to then be sent to me)

    The guy here who runs the shop advized me to lace my joint to one of 4 rims. He named two DT rims (which I can't remember). He also told me either Mavic OpenPro's or Mavic A 7 19's or something like that. He said the A 719, however, was more bomb-proof than the open pro (although a bit heavier).

    I do not mind weight on my bike, and like the 'bomb proof' idea. Do yall back up this statement?....or what is yall's opinions about a good daily-use rim?
    and...I googled to no avail....is there a link to the rims and specifications (and maybe a comparison to OpenPro's) online somewhere?

  10. #60
    dead mileage techone's Avatar
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    1) yep, that's it. I've been most frustrated with getting a wheel round, there always seems to be a bump at the seam and I've become satisfied with about a mm bump there.
    2) If you got it straight, true and round then all you need to do is tighten all spokes the same amount - like 1/4 turn* starting from the valve hole or something, repeat until tense. The more tension you put on it the more the wheel will show where it's not fully true so just make the corrections after each time you go around the wheel. There shouldn't really be too much of that tho.

    *Most important thing Sheldon says is the part about backing off the spoke, if you plan to do a 1/4 turn, actually do a 1/2 turn and turn 1/4 back. Keeps the spokes from twisting during the build and then untwisting when you first ride the wheel.
    J.P. forgot to do this and his whole wheel came loose the first time he rode it!

  11. #61
    Dirty White Boy SirrusPackage's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by techone
    *Most important thing Sheldon says is the part about backing off the spoke, if you plan to do a 1/4 turn, actually do a 1/2 turn and turn 1/4 back. Keeps the spokes from twisting during the build and then untwisting when you first ride the wheel.
    J.P. forgot to do this and his whole wheel came loose the first time he rode it!
    Hear hear.

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