Advertise on Bikeforums.net



User Tag List

Results 1 to 15 of 15

Thread: Bars and Brakes

  1. #1
    Obeying Gravity
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Bellingham, WA
    Posts
    2,962
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Bars and Brakes

    Finished painting my conversion this morning, and have everything back together excpet the back wheel, becuase I am going to build it. I got to thinking about what to do with the bars and the brakes... I am only going to run a front brake, so I will only need one brake lever (duh!) but I have regular drop bars and the brake levers are just like and other brake lever. I got to thinking, will it be unconfortable, since when I usually ride a road bike, I rest my hand just about the brake lever, only having one brake lever and not being able to have somewhere to put my other hand? On top of that will it look goofy? Should I buy some bull horn bars (never tried them) and a brake lever for those? Or should I just run a regular V-brake type of lever on my drop bars?

    I want your guys's opinions on what would prob. be the most confortable and look the best.

    Thanks
    Matt

  2. #2
    Banned.
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    4,418
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Keep the other lever, but don't connect it to anything. A "dummy lever".

    You will still have the hand positions.

    I run this setup and it works, and feels great.

    If you get all techy, you can remove the lever guts so you just have a hood.

    EDIT: Like this; on Harrris Cyclery's Pista SE edition.


  3. #3
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Posts
    727
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    i would say try bullhorns since i think dummy brake levers look a little goofy.

  4. #4
    如果你能讀了這個你講中文 genericbikedude's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    New York
    Posts
    3,542
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    ^^^--Right. I never liked drop bars, but what I like even less is the v levers in on the tops of the drop bars. One's weight is poorly distributed for stopping up there. Bullhorns with 'aero' levers are the best option IMO, but if you like drops, go with the dummy lever thing OR figure out some way--maybe using a BMX gyro cable--to have two levers pull one brake.

  5. #5
    best-dressed mess gnatthew's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    SF -> BK
    My Bikes
    2 Unicycles duct taped together
    Posts
    305
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Two levers into one brake, a la this maniac:
    http://fixedgeargallery.com/resource...ens/brakes.htm

  6. #6
    explody pup
    Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by gnatthew
    Two levers into one brake, a la this maniac:
    http://fixedgeargallery.com/resource...ens/brakes.htm
    I was going to suggest something along those lines, but with one of those BMX cable splitters.

  7. #7
    Team Beer Cynikal's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Sacramento CA
    My Bikes
    Too Many
    Posts
    5,788
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I would recomend bullhorns as well. If you ride on the hoods on your road bike and don't use the drops much then you will feel right at home on bullhorns. As for a brake I use a CX inline lever. I have a cheap (flip and chopped) set of horns you can try if you like. I may even have an old BMX lever for a brake. Let me know.
    I'm not one for fawning over bicycles, but I do believe that our bikes communicate with us, and what this bike is saying is, "You're an idiot." BikeSnobNYC

  8. #8
    Senior Member progre-ss's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    The Poconos, PA
    My Bikes
    Converted 1997 Trek Singletrack 930 singlespeed and a Kona Lavadome singlespeed, fixed 27" Miyata road bike, early 70's Raleigh Chopper
    Posts
    1,002
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    As mentioned above, you've got options...
    1. Drops with a front brake lever and a dummy brake hood
    2. drops and a cross lever on the top part of the bars
    3. bullhorns with a bar end brake lever
    4. flats with a v-brake or cross lever
    5. no brakes and whatever bars you like best
    80s era Miele fixie convert

    Volume Flatline bmx
    SS-converted Trek mtb
    fixed gear Dahon Boardwalk folding bike

  9. #9
    ))<>(( forever. xunwedsailorx's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Louisville, Ky
    My Bikes
    2006 bianchi pista, giant polo junker
    Posts
    249
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    PM me if you have bullhorns to donate!

  10. #10
    Barbieri Telefonico huhenio's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Albuquerque, New Mexico
    My Bikes
    Crappy but operational secondhand Motobecane Messenger
    Posts
    3,522
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Make your own from the original drops. Extra points if they are made of steel. Place brake lever at the end of the LEFT horn, pointing in the original position.

    I am totally in love with my home made horns. Double tape them for grip and comfort (old tape and new tape on top), three hand positions, and I can really go hunker down low for occasional sprinting.

  11. #11
    aka mattio queerpunk's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    5,493
    Mentioned
    3 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    i found big differences between flop-and-chops and bullhorns (i used syntace). the shortness and pleasant of the flop-and-chop was so comfy. the longness and flatness of the syntace horns was anti-comfy. i went to drops w/ inline lever (nobody can tell me they're not sexy! now if only i could cut down that 3cm unnecessary steerer length...)
    the hipster myth.

    i practice vagabondery.

  12. #12
    WWFSMD?
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Berkeley, Ca
    Posts
    56
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I've done dummy brake lever, flipped and chopped bullhorns, and now a nitto bullhorn (the longer one, model 019 i think) with a time-trial brake lever. Definitely my favorite are the nitto bullhorns, which give me a position very much like riding on the hoods on a road bike, but since they are longer and have a little upward bit at the end allow even more hand positions. But also because they are longer a shorter stem was necessary, otherwise I was feeling a little like superman all the time. I also got a stem with more drop so my position ended up, height-wise, between where I'd be in the drops and on the hoods with road bars. Works for me, my hands and arms never get sore, even after 4 hours or more in the saddle, and I can get aero if I need to by stretching out and lowering my back. Plus I have a threadless stem so changing out drop bars if I want to ride brakeless on the track is a 2 minute job.

    The only time you should be riding uncomfortably is if you're racing and you're good enough that a few seconds matter, or if looking cool matters more than riding - but then you're probably not riding too much or too fast anyway.

  13. #13
    Senior Member eddiebrannan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    NYC
    My Bikes
    DW
    Posts
    3,363
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by genericbikedude
    what I like even less is the v levers in on the tops of the drop bars. One's weight is poorly distributed for stopping up there

    how's that, gbd?

  14. #14
    Guest
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Posts
    3,242
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    here r my set up..

    Multiple bike handlebar setups

    S/F,
    CEYA!

  15. #15
    Camaro driver
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    42
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I use my fixed gear for training, and I like the feel of having hoods on road drops. Maybe not the coolest for pimpin to the coffee shop, but I can switch hbars easily enough. I didn't like the floppy lever on the dummy side, so I held the lever firmly in place with a wood screw through the eye for the cable. Pull the plastic piece off the top of the lever, screw it down, then replace the plastic piece. No more floppy lever. Just make sure the screw is not so long that it bottoms out on the hbars. Enjoy.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •