steal frame aluminum neck still stuck in there i need to get it out tried ammonia,wd40,soaking it in oil over a few days and banged it with 2x4 and hammer and just a hammer i was pissed need help or its to the lbs i go (waste of money) or shall i say stem
yeah, the aluminum stem has chemical bonded to the steel of the fork. i had this problem with a seat post once. i just took a blow torch to the seat tube and the steel expanded enough to get the post out. the problem you have is the head tube keeps you from heating the fork. oil will do nothing. ammonia could, sometimes. you could also try hitting it from the bottom with steel rod or pipe that fits in the fork shaft …otherwise, lbs, but it might be hopeless. just remeber to clean and grease alu/steel contact point which are likely to corrode.
but that is the problem with heat in your situation …the head tube will insulate the fork shaft from the heat and you won't be able to heat it enough. maybe if you tried heat it from the bottom/inside of the fork shaft with a small torch tip that could get in there. it seems like it might work …or maybe wait until some others post more tips, its still early.
Heat's a bad idea. Aluminum expands and contracts more quickly than steel. Cold might be good, but really the ammonia and penetrating oil should do it.
I assume you've completely removed the bolt at this point, yes? It's possible that the expander wedge is simply stuck. If you haven't taken the bolt out all the way yet, do that. Then see if you can get the stem free. You might try tapping it with a punch from the underside of the fork crown, but that will drive the wedge further up and make the problem worse if it's that the wedge is stuck.
Gunnar Street Dog, Gunnar Roadie, Lotus Elan FG Conversion (in pieces), Trek 850 Antelope
got to a good auto parts store and buy a can of "PB Blaster" this is the most incredible penetrating lubricant known to man, I use it on 40+ year old Land Rovers to move recalcitrant fasteners and it works almost every time. I usually apply lots o heat too but it is not always necessary, and often you can't use heat anyway, as in your case.
spray in a ****load of pb blaster
screw bolt in until it is protruding by 1/2 " or so, make sure the threads are pretty well engaged in the wedge
pound on the bolt until it is flush with the top of the stem. the wedge should now be loose.
add more pb blaster and work the stem side to side. don't break the handlbar or stem, it is possible.
this method should work, if not, let everything sit over night and try again.
don't bother trying to heat, as you will ruin the paint and it won't reach the stem anyway.
also you can try pounding the stem further in once the wedge is loose, this will at least get it moving.
not too far though...
use a soft mallet, not a waffle head framing hammer, got it?
Originally Posted by trackfanatic
yeah the wedge is stuck the neck doesnt move side to side
Why would you remove the bolt completely? How will you move the wedge then?
My tip is a generous splash of oil inside the stem through the screw hole, then hit the screw head until the wedge is loosened. If it won't loosen, maybe try tightening the screw a bit more to get the wedge move up slightly and get lubricated. Then loosen the screw 2-3 turns and bring in the hammer again.
Originally Posted by dutret
Do you deny that you are clueless or do you just think that "moron" didn't need to be tacked on there?
I'm assuming that he'd already tried driving the wedge down with the bolt, admittedly not a safe assumption. I've had stems where the wedge itself was stuck to the inside of the steer tube and I could remove the stem itself and work a little more directly on the wedge.