Advertise on Bikeforums.net



User Tag List

Results 1 to 12 of 12
  1. #1
    kill both bass players
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    sacramento
    Posts
    69
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    removing rear wheel with a tight chain

    i bought a used track bike last weekend, it rocks. problem is, the chain is quite short. there's a little slack, but when i slide the rear wheel to the front of the track ends, the chain can't slide off the cog. short of spinning off the cog or unscrewing the chainring, is there a quick way to get the wheel off in a pinch?

  2. #2
    Senior Member rykoala's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Posts
    2,013
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    With the chain at its slackest, try 'rolling' the chain gently off the cog. Carefully pull sideways on the chain up by the cog, and spin the drivetrain slowly so that the chain will hopefully jump the cog because its so loose. If not that, then I'd break out the chain tool and open up the chain. Did you check to see if the chain has a master link in it? Try that first.

  3. #3
    roll'em high shants's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    columbus, ohio
    Posts
    2,392
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    generally, if you spin the cranks (with rear wheel off the ground, of course) while trying to lift the chain up and away from the bike it will come off without a problem.

  4. #4
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Brooklyn, NY
    My Bikes
    2001 KHS, custom lugged
    Posts
    134
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by padelsbach
    i bought a used track bike last weekend, it rocks. problem is, the chain is quite short. there's a little slack, but when i slide the rear wheel to the front of the track ends, the chain can't slide off the cog. short of spinning off the cog or unscrewing the chainring, is there a quick way to get the wheel off in a pinch?

    Usually, is you're running a short chain for mechanical advantage or what not (I've had that explained to me, but still don't quite get), there' stypically enough slack to roll the chain off. just push the wheel up as far as it will go and get as much chain slack as you can from the lower level of the chain and then roll off the chain from the cog. I know this is a horrible description, but it's the best I can do. To get it back on, do it all in reverse. It just takes practice.

  5. #5
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    2,544
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Instead of trying to get the chain off of the cog first, take it off the chainring. It's not hard, like shants said just spin the cranks while pushing/pulling the chain off to one side so that the teeth from the chainring miss the chain.

  6. #6
    Iguana Subsystem dolface's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    san francisco
    Posts
    4,016
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    just be REALLY careful not to get your finger caught in the chain.

  7. #7
    hullo. drac_vamp's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    san francisco
    My Bikes
    74 paramount track, 80s maruishi track, 70s chesini track.
    Posts
    1,458
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    be REEEEAAALLLLLLY careful of those fingers.

    if its one of those easy to remove pin things on the chain, maybe just break the chain. i have the same problem, and with really snubbed drop outs on my bike, and gearing that doesn't allow for great chain length, the only way to rock it is with an ultra tight chain. one more link and the thing is at the very back of the dropouts... i have to dismantle the chain to get rear wheel off... annoying!
    t.h.r.

  8. #8
    kill both bass players
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    sacramento
    Posts
    69
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    thanks, all good suggestions. i'll try again when i get home.

  9. #9
    Back to being a Clyde.... ZappCatt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Santa Clara
    My Bikes
    Giant OCR1(specialized carbon seatpost,Terry Fly sadle, Syntace C2): Leader TT frame, Easton EC70fork, Aerolite bars, nashbar bullhorn, Titan Wheels: Fuji Track Pro(2003)
    Posts
    1,546
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Is it unsafe or just uncool to use a master-link on a fixie(particularly one seeing track use)?

  10. #10
    Slower than you Judah's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    SF, CA
    My Bikes
    IRO Mark V & Don Walker Custom
    Posts
    1,800
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Nah, I'm all about the masterlink. I've never had one fail on me and I put a decent amount of miles on my bike.

  11. #11
    hullo. drac_vamp's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    san francisco
    My Bikes
    74 paramount track, 80s maruishi track, 70s chesini track.
    Posts
    1,458
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    same here. i have snapped 2 chains without, and never one with.
    t.h.r.

  12. #12
    You know you want to. Eatadonut's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Norman, Oklahoma
    My Bikes
    Pinarello Prince, 1980's 531 steel fixie commuter, FrankenMTB
    Posts
    1,896
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Keep in mind I've only had experience with the SRAM powerlink -

    How do you work a powerlink on a bike with a tight chain? You have to be able to move the chain at least a bit to get the link unstuck. Do the shimano ones work differently?
    Weather today: Hot. Humid. Potholes.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •