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Singlespeed & Fixed Gear "I still feel that variable gears are only for people over forty-five. Isn't it better to triumph by the strength of your muscles than by the artifice of a derailer? We are getting soft...As for me, give me a fixed gear!"-- Henri Desgrange (31 January 1865 - 16 August 1940)

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Old 10-22-05, 02:03 PM   #1
B17
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700c v. 27" and pedal strike

I just got home with a Nishiki Olympic 12 frame- $20 for the entire bike minus the rear wheel. The lugwork on the headtube and the headbadge made me want it. But the wheel that came with the bike is a 27". If I choose to fix this bike, can I expect any pedal strike issues from the BB being 4mm closer to the ground? I know it sounds like a small distance, but it's an honest concern, so I'm asking. Thanks.
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Old 10-22-05, 02:59 PM   #2
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counteract the 4mm drop by going with 5mm shorter cranks.
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Old 10-22-05, 03:57 PM   #3
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Isn't it more like a 7mm drop? But I wouldn't expect it would actually be a problem, even with the cranks you have now.
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Old 10-22-05, 04:18 PM   #4
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well, the drop depends on the tires you pick, but really you're dealing with a 630mm bead seat diameter on the 27's and a 622mm diameter on the 700's.

so the drop will be around 4mm
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Old 10-22-05, 05:11 PM   #5
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Thanks for the replies. This frame has long stays (made a bit longer by the use of 700c wheels and tires), and uses those old-style Weinmann center-pull brakes, so I'm not looking to make it look like a racer. It'll likely have 32 or 35mm tires, fenders and my username atop the seatpost.

Crankset will be 165mm. I figure 32 or 35mm on the tires is enough to offset any distance I lose not going any shorter than that on the crankarms.
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Old 10-22-05, 05:22 PM   #6
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With 32+mm tires, you won't have any issues with pedal strike. Run whatever length crank you have on there now.
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Old 10-22-05, 05:39 PM   #7
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just a though, if you are going to run brakes....do you have enough reach with the brakes? When I converted my (possibly same era) nishiki from 27 to 700, it was hard to find brakes and the weiman center pulls did not reach the rims. I ended up installing a 700 fork and making up my own "drop" installation for the rear.
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Old 10-22-05, 05:40 PM   #8
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btw; have not grounded with 165's ....but just waiting for the day
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Old 10-23-05, 05:53 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by poopncow
just a though, if you are going to run brakes....do you have enough reach with the brakes? When I converted my (possibly same era) nishiki from 27 to 700, it was hard to find brakes and the weiman center pulls did not reach the rims. I ended up installing a 700 fork and making up my own "drop" installation for the rear.

those old Weinmann brakes come in multiple lengths. I've seen some REALLY long ones. Personally, short of the Paul "new racer" brakes, I think they're the best option for converting a bike to 700 from 27". They stop SO much better than side-pulls of equivalent length.
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Old 10-23-05, 08:34 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by treechunk
those old Weinmann brakes come in multiple lengths. I've seen some REALLY long ones. Personally, short of the Paul "new racer" brakes, I think they're the best option for converting a bike to 700 from 27". They stop SO much better than side-pulls of equivalent length.
Good idea. Mafac Racers have a pretty long reach, too.
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Old 10-25-05, 11:16 PM   #11
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can u weld on center pul braz ons to old frames
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Old 10-26-05, 08:23 AM   #12
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can u weld on center pul braz ons to old frames

you mean cantilever? http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_ca-g.html#cantilever

Center-pull brakes are slightly different. http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_ca-g.html#center-pull



If you mean cantilever, you certainly CAN, but it's not necessarily easy to get them lined up straight if you don't know what you're doing. I've seen a set or two that were added on to an older bike that were off at weird angles and basically left the frame not-so-useable.
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