****ing ProMax
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Jesus Christ. I just ****ing blew tons of money to finally build myself a nice rear wheel. ProMax, DT Swiss spokes, Suntour cog, Surly lockring, and a DT Swiss Trekking rim.
****ing 8 days in, making a routine skip-hop, I ****ing strip the lockring. Yes I kept it tight. Yes I threaded it properly. Goddamn it.
Money doesn't grow on trees.
****ing 8 days in, making a routine skip-hop, I ****ing strip the lockring. Yes I kept it tight. Yes I threaded it properly. Goddamn it.
Money doesn't grow on trees.
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man, i've ridden two diffrent wheels with two diffrent promax hubs now, and i aint ever had any problems. i beat the **** out of them and dont take proper care of them either
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Originally Posted by $0.00/Gal
I don't think I've ever buy anything Suzue
They've made many great hubs, and generally the only one I've seen or heard anything bad about is the Basic.
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Philosophy and feelings don't change the laws of physics
Philosophy and feelings don't change the laws of physics
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Originally Posted by $0.00/Gal
I don't think I've ever buy anything Suzue
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It could be that this particular hub was faulty. I would follow up with your shop so you can get it replaced. I've never heard of anyone having any problems with the Pro Max and I know I personally have had nothing to complain about.
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Originally Posted by baxtefer
user error
its either the particular hub or lockring, or in some fluke occurance, user error. regardless, it sucks for me. i can't afford another promax. Formula/IRO hubs for me this time. anyone have any objections?
it feels to me like it was the lockring's fault. one of the inner threads does look a little sketchy now. i'm thinking of replacing the cog and lockring with both DA parts? would anyone make a case for me to keep the suntour cog?
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i think, given that a bunch or people checked out your setup, you can make a valid case that the hub (or lockring) was faulty, and get the hub replaced.
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Originally Posted by dolface
i think, given that a bunch or people checked out your setup, you can make a valid case that the hub (or lockring) was faulty, and get the hub replaced.
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Talk to your distributor or direct to Suzue if you got the contacts. It's the bike industry, people understand premature failure and generally work to make things right.
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Originally Posted by bostontrevor
It could be that this particular hub was faulty. I would follow up with your shop so you can get it replaced. I've never heard of anyone having any problems with the Pro Max and I know I personally have had nothing to complain about.
Do you have any idea how many miles you have on yours?
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A few basic rules help avoid this kind of thing:
1. When you buy a hub, always micro-inspect the threading. I have found both cog and lockring threads that weren't cut properly -- they start properly but peter out well before you get to the inside. Then when your cog or lockring goes on, there are only 2-3 threads holding it. I've seen this on Suzue, Dura Ace, Campy, Surly, pretty much everything except Phil Wood.
2. Anti-seize compound on the threads. Not many threads mention it, but dry threads strip.
3. Tighten hard -- you aren't likely to tighten it harder than you're going to kick it in a sprint. The lockring doesn't need as much tightening since you aren't putting direct pressure on it, but you want the cog down solidly so it doesn't have room to turn after the lockring is applied.
4. Don't swap cogs around excessively. It's a law of sooner-or-later.
5. Always go for double-sided hubs -- you get a second chance and they typically don't cost significantly more.
6. Avoid cheap hubs. If you don't like Suzue Basics or Juniors (and who would?) you wouldn't like Campagnolo Nuovo Tipo track hubs either, or some of the cheap BMX hubs.
7. Most important, respect the differences between ISO and BSC threading on cogs. Check the Phil Wood website for a discussion of the differences. The cog or lockring should spin on without resistance. If it doesn't, you may have a threading mismatch. They are interchangeable with a little urging, but you shave off the top of the threads every time you mount a mismatched cog. Since you had multiple inspectors on your mounting, I'd bet that you have a mismatched thread. It's the fastest way to strip a thread. I've used Suzue hubs for years, as do many people at my track, and I've never seen a stripped ProMax hub.
8. Always say a brief prayer over your bike. That, or a dash of chicken blood on the top tube, will ward off bad hardware experiences of all kinds.
1. When you buy a hub, always micro-inspect the threading. I have found both cog and lockring threads that weren't cut properly -- they start properly but peter out well before you get to the inside. Then when your cog or lockring goes on, there are only 2-3 threads holding it. I've seen this on Suzue, Dura Ace, Campy, Surly, pretty much everything except Phil Wood.
2. Anti-seize compound on the threads. Not many threads mention it, but dry threads strip.
3. Tighten hard -- you aren't likely to tighten it harder than you're going to kick it in a sprint. The lockring doesn't need as much tightening since you aren't putting direct pressure on it, but you want the cog down solidly so it doesn't have room to turn after the lockring is applied.
4. Don't swap cogs around excessively. It's a law of sooner-or-later.
5. Always go for double-sided hubs -- you get a second chance and they typically don't cost significantly more.
6. Avoid cheap hubs. If you don't like Suzue Basics or Juniors (and who would?) you wouldn't like Campagnolo Nuovo Tipo track hubs either, or some of the cheap BMX hubs.
7. Most important, respect the differences between ISO and BSC threading on cogs. Check the Phil Wood website for a discussion of the differences. The cog or lockring should spin on without resistance. If it doesn't, you may have a threading mismatch. They are interchangeable with a little urging, but you shave off the top of the threads every time you mount a mismatched cog. Since you had multiple inspectors on your mounting, I'd bet that you have a mismatched thread. It's the fastest way to strip a thread. I've used Suzue hubs for years, as do many people at my track, and I've never seen a stripped ProMax hub.
8. Always say a brief prayer over your bike. That, or a dash of chicken blood on the top tube, will ward off bad hardware experiences of all kinds.
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Skidding/skipping on equipment meant for use on a velodrome is not premature failure. Why do you think shimano and campy now state that their track equipment is not meant for use on the street?
(by no means is this a claim of me not doing the above, it is merely a statement of fact)
(by no means is this a claim of me not doing the above, it is merely a statement of fact)
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Just a sub question:
Do you think the use of track bikes/components on the street will ever reach a level where a company would make components specifically for street use? Like a hub with threads much beefier than anything currently available with matching lockrings/cogs?
Do you think the use of track bikes/components on the street will ever reach a level where a company would make components specifically for street use? Like a hub with threads much beefier than anything currently available with matching lockrings/cogs?
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I was thinking about that the other day.
There are so many hubs/cogs/lockrings manufactured to standard track specs that work well on the street when properly maintained.
it would be tough to compete with what's out there.
level tried to do the whole bolt on cog thing... it's a great idea but i don't think they saw (or are seeing) much success.
I think it's a great idea that could have a following if it was sold at the right price, but it will never sell the same volume as the current standard track stuff.
There are so many hubs/cogs/lockrings manufactured to standard track specs that work well on the street when properly maintained.
it would be tough to compete with what's out there.
level tried to do the whole bolt on cog thing... it's a great idea but i don't think they saw (or are seeing) much success.
I think it's a great idea that could have a following if it was sold at the right price, but it will never sell the same volume as the current standard track stuff.
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i have a problem with my Campy hubs but i not damning the hubs. look at what you did to put them on. i am doing mine over now. Red Menane raced them with no problem then I get the cog loose. check the lock ring first ,then the cog.
S/F,
CEYA!
S/F,
CEYA!
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Originally Posted by $0.00/Gal
Just a sub question:
Do you think the use of track bikes/components on the street will ever reach a level where a company would make components specifically for street use? Like a hub with threads much beefier than anything currently available with matching lockrings/cogs?
Do you think the use of track bikes/components on the street will ever reach a level where a company would make components specifically for street use? Like a hub with threads much beefier than anything currently available with matching lockrings/cogs?
i sure hope they do. cause thats the only place i use it
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2manybikes, I really don't have any idea other than to say "thousands". I'm sure there are many out there with more street miles than me on their pro max.
As to whether or not it's street intended... All I have to say is that it says something that Suzue is now apparently distributing the Pro Max through QBP. I doubt that they're expecting to reach some new clutch of track riders that way.
As to whether or not it's street intended... All I have to say is that it says something that Suzue is now apparently distributing the Pro Max through QBP. I doubt that they're expecting to reach some new clutch of track riders that way.