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Singlespeed & Fixed Gear "I still feel that variable gears are only for people over forty-five. Isn't it better to triumph by the strength of your muscles than by the artifice of a derailer? We are getting soft...As for me, give me a fixed gear!"-- Henri Desgrange (31 January 1865 - 16 August 1940)

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Old 11-14-05, 12:26 PM   #1
Spudmeister
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Putting holes in bullhorns

I've scored a Syntace Brake Lever for my bullhorns a few weeks ago. They are designed to run the brake cable inside the handlebars, so I need an exit hole. In the past I've seen handlebars that have been drilled for internal routing - often done by the owner, not the manufacturer. I already know that Syntace makes bars for this lever, but I'd like to avoid spending more money.

Anyone out there drilled a hole in their handlebars for themselves? How bad an idea is this? Where would be the best spot on the bars to put a hole?

Any constructive advice would be welcome.
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Old 11-14-05, 12:38 PM   #2
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right out the other end!!!!

just kidding.

it would have to be more than a hole. more like an oval, so that it's not hitting a sharp bend when you make it exit...
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Old 11-14-05, 01:52 PM   #3
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I know you said you don't want to spend any more money, but the Syntace 'horns are only $12.50 on Chuck's. I bet you could sell whatever bars you have now for that on eBay or CL, thereby breaking even. These bars not only have holes but little impressed tracks for the cables, which'll make everything lie flatter under tape.

I don't think a regular drill/bit could do a clean enough job, and I would imagine that most other options will total more than $13.

http://www.chucksbikes.com/store/indexbr001s.htm
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Old 11-14-05, 02:00 PM   #4
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Can't you just run the cable under the bar tape?
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Old 11-14-05, 02:15 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hyperRevue
Can't you just run the cable under the bar tape?
No, they're designed to run through the bar. The cable leaves the lever through the wedge that goes inside the handlebars.
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Old 11-14-05, 02:17 PM   #6
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That's a good suggestion, but I like wide bars. Syntace are only available up to 42cm (44cm outside).


Quote:
Originally Posted by chicagoamdream
I know you said you don't want to spend any more money, but the Syntace 'horns are only $12.50 on Chuck's. I bet you could sell whatever bars you have now for that on eBay or CL, thereby breaking even. These bars not only have holes but little impressed tracks for the cables, which'll make everything lie flatter under tape.

I don't think a regular drill/bit could do a clean enough job, and I would imagine that most other options will total more than $13.

http://www.chucksbikes.com/store/indexbr001s.htm
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Old 11-14-05, 02:57 PM   #7
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The "Profile Stoker 26" bar that I use has two holes, one closer to the end of the bull bar on the lateral side, and one closer to the bend on the medial side. My aero lever starts the cable on the lateral side of the bar then the cable goes through the bar to the inside side. The cable then goes under the tape to near the stem. The holes are beveled to accomodate the cable housing going in the direction of the bar. I would think you could drill a hole the size of the o.d. of the cable housing, then stick a rod into it (something close to the cable diameter) and bend the hole so it's angled to better match the cable direction.
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Old 11-14-05, 03:11 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spudmeister
The cable leaves the lever through the wedge that goes inside the handlebars.
We should swap levers... I have Cane Creeks on a Ritchey 'horn. The cables exit the lever on the outside and the bars have imressed channels for the cables only from halfway; meant to be drilled at the exit, so internal would suit me better.
The drilling itself isn't a big deal: make a small hole w/ a drill bit, then ovalize it with a small round file, making sure you leave no sharp edges.
On a bar like that, I'd probably do it on the outer area of the straight section, that is, as far as possible from the stem. This way the hole weakens the tube where there isn't that much stress. I wouldn't be comfortable at all riding a bar that's drilled close to the stem. If you drill just after the bar turns in towards the stem, you get a less sharp curve in the housing, but don't weaken the bar too much.
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Old 11-14-05, 03:16 PM   #9
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I once had a bar that was a little too narrow in diameter for the stem I wanted to use, and I drilled a hole through the bar and the stem and but a bolt through to hold everything in place. Despite warnings about catastrophic failure, the set-up held up for nearly a year (it didn't break; I just wanted a different bar set-up). Drill away, it'll probably be fine.
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