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Singlespeed & Fixed Gear "I still feel that variable gears are only for people over forty-five. Isn't it better to triumph by the strength of your muscles than by the artifice of a derailer? We are getting soft...As for me, give me a fixed gear!"-- Henri Desgrange (31 January 1865 - 16 August 1940)

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Old 12-16-14, 08:20 AM
  #426  
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Originally Posted by IAmSam
I received my new Wabi wheelset yesterday and rode them on one of our “fast” nite-time urban rides. While, from my short time on them so far, I am quite satisfied with their performance – I just do not care for the internal bolt system they use.

@TejanoTrackie (or anyone else familiar with these)…did you not, once upon a time, post about using quick releases on yours? If I am recalling that correctly, could you please explain how you did it?

Or…

Do you think its possible to change-out the axles to the typical ones that take external nuts? And if so, can you tutor me on how you would go about doing that?
Yes, I'm using QR skewers with my Wabi wheelset, and it's as simple as using them instead of the bolts. The front wheel uses a 100mm QR, same as any geared bike with a QR wheel. The rear will require a 126mm long QR as a minimum, and it should be an internal cam design that is meant to develop sufficient clamping force to keep the the axle from slipping in a horizontal dropout. I still had problems keeping the wheel from moving on mine, and ended up using a Surly Tugnut and a modern 130mm external cam QR.

As to replacing the axles, I don't think it's possible, but perhaps Richard at Wabi would be a better person to ask this question.
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Old 12-16-14, 11:06 AM
  #427  
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Hmm.. i hadn't thought about that. I think i've decided to go with Sram components -- 700 flat bar levers and the Apex front caliper. From what i can tell, these workin together should work out just fine!

Originally Posted by LesterOfPuppets
One more thing, if you have road calipers or cantilevers, you'll want short pull brakes. Most MTB brakes these days are long pull, some can be adjusted for long/short and a few are short pull.
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Old 12-16-14, 11:46 AM
  #428  
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Hi, Im looking to replace my current crank and bottom bracket with a Phil Wood bottom bracket to go with a Sugino 75 crankset. My bike is a Wabi Classic that has a TH BB-7420ST 68/103 sealed, I think it's JIS. The rear hub is stated as "120mm OLD rear". The sales rep said, "Both the 108 or the 110.5 ISO taper bottom bracket will work with the Sugino 75 cranks depending the the geometry of the frame." Which of these two bottom bracket would be close to a perfect chainline in relation to the bikes geometry?
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Old 12-16-14, 11:58 AM
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I think that depends on what wheel/hub/cog you are running

Originally Posted by cDiff Notorious
Hi, Im looking to replace my current crank and bottom bracket with a Phil Wood bottom bracket to go with a Sugino 75 crankset. My bike is a Wabi Classic that has a TH BB-7420ST 68/103 sealed, I think it's JIS. The rear hub is stated as "120mm OLD rear". The sales rep said, "Both the 108 or the 110.5 ISO taper bottom bracket will work with the Sugino 75 cranks depending the the geometry of the frame." Which of these two bottom bracket would be close to a perfect chainline in relation to the bikes geometry?
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Old 12-16-14, 12:11 PM
  #430  
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Originally Posted by Unkle Rico
I think that depends on what wheel/hub/cog you are running
It actually has nothing to do with that and depends much more on how much crank clearance your frame has.

At any rate, the difference between using a 108 and 110.5mm is a whopping .75mm per side. If one doesn't work there a really good chance the other won't either.
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Old 12-16-14, 12:19 PM
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Thats why i said "i think"

Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
It actually has nothing to do with that and depends much more on how much crank clearance your frame has.

At any rate, the difference between using a 108 and 110.5mm is a whopping .75mm per side. If one doesn't work there a really good chance the other won't either.
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Old 12-16-14, 01:22 PM
  #432  
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Um I dont know how to measure crank clearance but I took some measurements using a tape measure hoping it will help.

bb shell - 68mm
rear drop out - 120.65
Ctr tube to ctr chain ring - 41.275
andel stock crank - 127 measured end to end closest to the bottom bracket.
frame to tip of crank - 5
the crank arm length itself is 170mm and im planning to replace it with 167.5
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Old 12-16-14, 01:47 PM
  #433  
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You won't know until you try it.

I know a Wabi has plenty of clearance for Sugino 75s and the matching Sugino 109mm ISO BB so I don't see why you'd have any trouble.
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Old 12-16-14, 01:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
At any rate, the difference between using a 108 and 110.5mm is a whopping .75mm per side. If one doesn't work there a really good chance the other won't either.
Actually, it's 1.25mm per side, but that's still not very much. Anyways, if you want play it safe, then get the 110.5mm, although I can't imagine the 108mm not working, since the Sugino 75 OEM BB is 109mm, and is intended to fit track racing frames with fat chainstays that lack indentations.
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Old 12-16-14, 02:06 PM
  #435  
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Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
You won't know until you try it.

I know a Wabi has plenty of clearance for Sugino 75s and the matching Sugino 109mm ISO BB so I don't see why you'd have any trouble.
Oh ok. Thanks for the help guys!
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Old 12-16-14, 02:32 PM
  #436  
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Originally Posted by TejanoTrackie
Actually, it's 1.25mm per side, but that's still not very much. Anyways, if you want play it safe, then get the 110.5mm, although I can't imagine the 108mm not working, since the Sugino 75 OEM BB is 109mm, and is intended to fit track racing frames with fat chainstays that lack indentations.
Derp!

I'm using a Phil Wood 108mm BB with 75s on my Thunderdome and it's perfect.
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Old 12-17-14, 04:13 PM
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Originally Posted by TejanoTrackie
Yes, I'm using QR skewers with my Wabi wheelset, and it's as simple as using them instead of the bolts.
Despite my misgivings, you are absolutely correct...I put a skewer thru the front axle and it fit very loosely in there so I figured it wouldn't work right, but when I put the wheel into the dropout & tighten it up - the damned thing spins smoothly.

Thanx, I appreciate your help...
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Old 12-30-14, 09:07 AM
  #438  
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I have a Steel Specialized Langster, am picking up an Sram Ominum crankset for it.

I have been told a Chris King BB would be a great fit and smooth ride.

I plan on having my LBS install it, but what size do I order?

Can I just get this? Chris King GXP Bottom Bracket Road Sram

ALSO: are there better/ cheaper options?

I did my best to research and read but don't want to mess this up.

Thanks!
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Old 12-30-14, 11:37 AM
  #439  
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Originally Posted by TejanoTrackie
Yes, I'm using QR skewers with my Wabi wheelset, and it's as simple as using them instead of the bolts. The front wheel uses a 100mm QR, same as any geared bike with a QR wheel. The rear will require a 126mm long QR as a minimum, and it should be an internal cam design that is meant to develop sufficient clamping force to keep the the axle from slipping in a horizontal dropout. I still had problems keeping the wheel from moving on mine, and ended up using a Surly Tugnut and a modern 130mm external cam QR.

As to replacing the axles, I don't think it's possible, but perhaps Richard at Wabi would be a better person to ask this question.
Thanks for this. I plan on using a trainer and a Wabi rear with a skewer might be the ticket to getting my bike to fit in the trainer. Does anyone know if you can do the same thing with a Phil hub?
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Old 12-30-14, 12:51 PM
  #440  
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Originally Posted by 50voltphantom
Thanks for this. I plan on using a trainer and a Wabi rear with a skewer might be the ticket to getting my bike to fit in the trainer.
Why go through the trouble? Just use a set of these.
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Old 12-30-14, 01:15 PM
  #441  
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Can I install 23c tires on stock wheels which had 25c tires installed?
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Old 12-30-14, 02:02 PM
  #442  
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Originally Posted by Drastry
Can I install 23c tires on stock wheels which had 25c tires installed?
Yes
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Old 01-07-15, 09:10 AM
  #443  
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Concor Supercorsa or Concor Light?
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Old 01-07-15, 10:07 AM
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They're both contoured exactly the same. One is lighter than the other.
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Old 01-07-15, 10:25 AM
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Yeah, the sitting area is the same but side configuration is different. I recently started riding an early model Concor Light which has a slimmer profile than the modern repop does, and am enjoying it immensely.
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Old 01-07-15, 10:38 AM
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I'm torn between the two. Supercorsa looks better overall, Light is lighter, looks good too. I'm using the Origin8 lookalike currently and I like that type of contour and want to step up to the real deal.

Last edited by 50voltphantom; 01-07-15 at 10:41 AM.
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Old 01-07-15, 10:45 AM
  #447  
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Originally Posted by IAmSam
Yeah, the sitting area is the same but side configuration is different. I recently started riding an early model Concor Light which has a slimmer profile than the modern repop does, and am enjoying it immensely.
I've used both and my butt can't tell the difference between the two.
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Old 01-07-15, 12:37 PM
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^^Good to know. I appreciate the info!
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Old 01-07-15, 11:41 PM
  #449  
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Originally Posted by Scrodzilla
I've used both and my butt can't tell the difference between the two.
Does that mean you hated both for exactly the same reasons?
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Old 01-08-15, 10:53 AM
  #450  
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Nope, I love Concor saddles. Those and Turbos are still my favorites.
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