Then find any of the 13,000 threads about gear ratios posted on this forum and do some reading.
Put in your cog and chainrings that you are thinking of. It will give you gear inches to compare.
Disclaimer: It's just an opinion that I have. It works for me. I am not the forum "Police (Of Anything)". Others may disagree. And....YMMV.
Don't use up any brain cells thinking that I care, you don't like anything anyway.
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Rabbit because as well as giving you the gear inches (and lots of stuff), the speed vs rpm chart is a table that I find particularly easy to read. Each to his own though, it could be I like Rabbit because I've been using it for years.
I had a good bike ... so I FIXED it
Huge thanks for help, fellas.
Will have a look at both the calculator greatjones suggested, as well as that Rabbit one.
I have a question, I'm wondering how to tell road geo from track geo. What angles do I look for in telling which is which and what's inbetween being track and road. I know my Surly it more towards road and I'm looking to build up a legit track bike. Just curious as to which angles I should look for so I can get the super compact geo.
In general, track geometry is characterized by relatively steep head tube and seat tube angles, forks with little rake, and higher bottom brackets. Road bikes generally have more slack angles, more rake, and lower bottom brackets. However, both sides come in wide ranges of variability depending on their intended use.
Another tires question: Can anyone speak to the quality of Resist Nomads, as far as ride quality and durability/puncture resistance? I've been happy with Paselas as a good balance between the two, but I like to try new things. Hell, they're so cheap I might by a set just to try out.
oh i deleted it but thanks.
Silly question but outsideoutfitters lists the gran cru bbs in threading, 1.37x24 is standard correct? Purchasing for my pake. Also the older 1" pake frames use 27.2 posts like the newer pake? Thanks
Leader 725. I absolutely love the way they ride but they're pretty thin and I don't think they have any type of puncture-resitant layer (if they do, I haven't seen any mention of it anywhere) and most likely won't hold up if you skid like a maniac. I've only had one flat that was caused by what looked like part of a staple.
Bought a new stem and handlebars (clamp size 31.8) and for some reason I thought my stock brake lever would fit the new handlebar.
The stock Tektro MT 2.1 fit just fine on a 25.4 handlebar, but I just couldn't get them on my new bars.
I want a "small" brake lever, hence thinking of going with Tektro RL726 (clamp size 26mm). Would that lever be an appropriate substitute for me?
It depends on the bar and where you are going to mount it.
anyone have any knowledge on MJ cycle quill stems? or mj products in general???
I have a trick fixed gear (grey and white) but lately I'm not doing any tricks, just want to ride around. And I do like the look of the bullhorn handlebar. So, can a trick fixed gear with trick fork has bullhorn handlebar ?. Does it look wierd ? and please give me some advices, and thanks for reading guys .
Tektro RL7xx levers come in a couple other sizes besides the one you are looking at. There is a 31.8 clamp model that can go on the bulge next to the stem if it is wide enough that the interface with the stem leaves sufficient room. If not, there is a 24.0 version to fit on a bar off the bulge which should work for you if your handlebar has typical dimensions. I actually use RL726s on my 26mm bar, butted up close to my quill stem but it will likely need a shim to work on yours.