Quick questions and answers
03-14-15, 04:06 PM
#527
Your cog is slipping.
I honestly don't know what the problem is here. The Masi Speciale Sprint takes a 27.2 seatpost and either a 29.8 or 30.0 seatpost clamp (which are the same thing).
03-17-15, 08:19 AM
#528
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I hope this makes sense, this is my first time dealing with a bottom bracket assembly and I'm pretty sure it's a cheap stock one.
Anyway, the bearing encasement on the nds of my bottom bracket seems to have detached from the rest of the bottom bracket assembly allowing the whole bearing encasement to spin freely. When I place the cup over the bearings it seems to hold it in place and there's no issue with the spindle rotating, but from what I understand the bearings should be attached to the rest of the assembly. Is this thing destined for the trash or good to keep using?
Anyway, the bearing encasement on the nds of my bottom bracket seems to have detached from the rest of the bottom bracket assembly allowing the whole bearing encasement to spin freely. When I place the cup over the bearings it seems to hold it in place and there's no issue with the spindle rotating, but from what I understand the bearings should be attached to the rest of the assembly. Is this thing destined for the trash or good to keep using?
03-17-15, 08:39 AM
#529
Your cog is slipping.
When the NDS cup is properly torqued, what you're describing won't be an issue.
03-17-15, 08:44 AM
#530
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Yeah, the cheap NECO BB on my Vilano was like that. The only problem is that if I tightened the cup too much the bearings bound up, so I needed to use loctite on the threads and only tighten the cup snug against the bearings. As long as you don't have any problems, I wouldn't worry about it.
03-18-15, 12:09 PM
#532
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Does someone know if the default chainring of a felt tk3 (suited for 3/32" chains) is compatible with a 1/8" chain? I'm thinking of buying one and want to change to 1/8 chain and sprocket after the pre installed ones are worn out to reduce maintain cost.
03-18-15, 07:42 PM
#538
Your cog is slipping.
It depends on where you're putting it.
03-23-15, 01:25 PM
#542
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My Steamroller has numerous chips and scrapes, some of which have rust. Should I sand the rust off and hit it with clear nail polish? I don't care about trying to hide the damage, I just want to prevent further rust. Ideas?
03-23-15, 02:16 PM
#543
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ive used clear nailpolish without even sanding (though in my case there was no rust before i put it on) and it seems to be doing the job
03-24-15, 03:44 PM
#547
Your cog is slipping.
I am going to order a Bianchi Super Pista to replace my current track racing bike. I am loyal to my local bike shop but they are not a Bianchi Dealer. Should I get the frame through another local Bianchi dealer or just order off CityGrounds or similar website? City Grounds would be a bit easier but I don't want a massive box sitting on my doorstep for hours until I get home.
04-12-15, 03:09 AM
#548
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I tightened up some loose spokes on my front wheel after noticing them creak when out of the saddle and shifting my weight forward. Sound seems to be gone and the wheel is still true. A few spokes still rub where they cross when I squeeze them together but if I keep tightening them it seems to pull the wheel out of true. As for the other spokes, when applying the same moderate pressure they don't flex or rub at all. So, I'm just wondering is a little play when squeezing spokes together a big deal?
It if helps, I have black spokes and where the spokes were rubbing it scratched off the paint probably about 4-5mm, after tightening the spokes and then squeezing them the movement is probably just a mm or 2.
It if helps, I have black spokes and where the spokes were rubbing it scratched off the paint probably about 4-5mm, after tightening the spokes and then squeezing them the movement is probably just a mm or 2.
04-12-15, 06:55 AM
#549
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Spoke tension should be nearly the same when the wheel is true, so you either have not sufficiently tightened all the spokes in the wheel or your rim is bent. I suggest you take the wheel to a bike shop and have them check it out.
04-24-15, 12:04 AM
#550
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Super grateful for any help here.
I recently bought Kool Stop Dura2 brake pads for my stock Tektro R538, only to find out I'm stupid. The stock brake pads is this combined brake-shoes-and-cartridge type of things and now I have brand new pair of brake pads that's used with "real" brake shoes. So, what's the smartest move for me here - is it to buy a pair of "real" brake shoes and save my newly acquired pair of pads for later use? (For example, I'm thinking of these.)
Never switched out anything on my front brake before, so any pointers would be super appreciated.
Thanks!
I recently bought Kool Stop Dura2 brake pads for my stock Tektro R538, only to find out I'm stupid. The stock brake pads is this combined brake-shoes-and-cartridge type of things and now I have brand new pair of brake pads that's used with "real" brake shoes. So, what's the smartest move for me here - is it to buy a pair of "real" brake shoes and save my newly acquired pair of pads for later use? (For example, I'm thinking of these.)
Never switched out anything on my front brake before, so any pointers would be super appreciated.
Thanks!