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Singlespeed & Fixed Gear "I still feel that variable gears are only for people over forty-five. Isn't it better to triumph by the strength of your muscles than by the artifice of a derailer? We are getting soft...As for me, give me a fixed gear!"-- Henri Desgrange (31 January 1865 - 16 August 1940)

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Old 11-19-05, 07:42 PM   #1
sxe fbm rider
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I got a track frame

I just bought a Starnord Paris-Sport for $350. It seems like a solid lugged frame. It has a Belleri - Course stem and Belleri bars(although I just bought some nittos). It has a stronglight headset. It also has stronglight cranks that look like they are an older style crank, the bolts that hold on the chainring are very close to the spindle. It also has a chain that says sedis. The frame and all of the parts are in a pretty un-used condition. It had tubular rims so I told him to keep the wheels. There is a decal that says:
Tubes Legers
DURIFORT
Marque Francaise
Champion du Monde
I'm assuming this is the type of tubing.
Anyone know anything about it? I have a little extra money right now and the oportunity arose so I went for it. I'll post pictuers when it's all together.
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Old 11-19-05, 07:58 PM   #2
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Tubes Legers light tubing
DURIFORT make or maufacture short for 'durable and strong'
Marque Francaise made in France
Champion du Monde world champion

Fairly generic claims.
If you like it, love it.
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Old 11-19-05, 08:03 PM   #3
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I do. Here are some pictures from it's craigslist posting.
http://philadelphia.craigslist.org/bik/108095762.html
Also, I am riding in the city and a few hills when I get out to the sub-burbs. I was going to run 48x18, but now that I have 46 up front, would 16 probably be the right size cog for me?
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Old 11-19-05, 08:12 PM   #4
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I find 46x16 a little on the easy side.
I ride 46x15 on one of my bikes and enjoy that very much.
What's right for you? No idea.
But I guess starting out with the easier gearing (16t cog) probably isnt the worst idea.
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Old 11-19-05, 08:25 PM   #5
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Thank you. I know what you are sayign about not knowing whats for me, I was just wondering, because I have little clue about gearing right now. I rode fixed before but I am still learningm to skid and am pretty out of shape, so I think the easier gearing would be better for now. Thanks.
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Old 11-19-05, 08:31 PM   #6
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46x16 is by no means a ridiculously easy gear.
My friend rides it, and has been for a while, and loves it.
I just started out on 48x16 so I'm used to a little tougher gearing.
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Old 11-19-05, 08:45 PM   #7
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That's what I origionally rode.
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Old 11-19-05, 10:04 PM   #8
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Also, the spacing is 95 up front and 110 in the back.. anyone ever gotten an IRO set with smaller spacing? Are they able to acomidate this? I e-mailed them, but just asking here if anyone has done this?
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Old 11-19-05, 10:20 PM   #9
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I wanted that one ... but first I have to build a single speed "hello kitty" track bike to my wife
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Old 11-20-05, 04:36 AM   #10
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You can probably get the steel frame to spread enough to accomodate the iro hubs. Or try to find thinner locknuts for the hubs. Either way no big deal.
Depending on what kind of hubs were on the original wheels, I probably would've kept the wheels that were on it and just laced the hubs up to some clincher rims.

48x18 is a good medium sized gear.
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Old 11-20-05, 09:19 AM   #11
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I know, I was going to run 48x18, but the bike has a 46 chainring on it that I'm going to keep on there. It had maillard hubs from the 70s in it i believe.
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Old 11-20-05, 10:25 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sxe fbm rider
I know, I was going to run 48x18, but the bike has a 46 chainring on it that I'm going to keep on there. It had maillard hubs from the 70s in it i believe.

oops, I read it wrong! I'd go with a 17t in the back. Won't be too much different than 48x18 - 70.1, just a tad bit harder - 71.1 inches. (I think 1 tooth in the back equals about 3 teeth in the front?)
46x16 - 75.6 inches.

Maillard hubs? Yea, not really worth the trouble, except they probably fit the spacing. Still, probably shouldn't be too hard to get a modern spec hub in there.

Nice looking frame by the way. And I really like those cranks but I'm a fool for vintage stuff...
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Old 11-20-05, 12:35 PM   #13
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46x16 is a really nice gear. not super-fast, but just about right for being a wee little bit lazy on big hills when you want to. i don't win any races with it, but it's nice not to have to crank crank crank mash from every stoplight i come to.
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Old 11-20-05, 01:03 PM   #14
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go with 46x17. more skid patches.
And keep the crank, BB and headset and take a good care of them. French threaded parts are hard to find, and $$$$.
Also, you need a special crank remover to take those cranks off as well. So don't try with normal one, or you'll strip the threads.
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Old 11-20-05, 01:20 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trespasser
go with 46x17. more skid patches.
And keep the crank, BB and headset and take a good care of them. French threaded parts are hard to find, and $$$$.
Also, you need a special crank remover to take those cranks off as well. So don't try with normal one, or you'll strip the threads.

You won't actually strip anything, the crank puller will just slide into the the opening and not thread in.

Just saying.
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Old 11-20-05, 02:48 PM   #16
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Either way, I'm keeping them on. I'm keeping the chainring for now, but does anyone know where I could find one like that?
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Old 11-20-05, 04:56 PM   #17
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I want a bmx style lever for my nitto bars, but most come in 7/8"/22.2mm. Anyone know of one that works out on 25.4 bars?
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Old 11-20-05, 04:58 PM   #18
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Nevermind, I just googled and it seems cyclcross levers work? I found a 26 one with a 25.4 adapter.
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Old 11-20-05, 09:42 PM   #19
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Allright, I just checked and it seems the chainwheel is 3/32". Is it okay to run a 1/8" chain and cog with it? Will there be any resulting issues?
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Old 11-21-05, 02:40 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sxe fbm rider
Allright, I just checked and it seems the chainwheel is 3/32". Is it okay to run a 1/8" chain and cog with it? Will there be any resulting issues?
Not usually a problem.
A little more noise since the wider chain can 'rattle' on the thinner teeth.
Also in my opinion, if the chainline isn't spot on there's slightly more of a slim chance you could drop the chain. It did happen to me once on on a long wheelbased, cheap tubed roadframe - I also kinda think frame flex helped the chain come off as I was taking a sharp corner.
Altho, some people say that it using a 1/8 chain on 3/32 rings/cogs can be more forgiving to a wonky chainline since the thinner teeth allow the wider chain move a bit side to side.
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Old 11-21-05, 10:11 AM   #21
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be careful with those cranks. Sometimes those little bolts right by the crank shear and you get quite the jolt.
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Old 11-21-05, 10:34 AM   #22
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allright, I will. Is that likely to be a catistrophic failure or one breaks and I notice and fix it? Should I get a new crankset all together? and I read that even french parts made after the 1970s have english threading.. I dont know if there were french threaded pedals, but my mks pedals fit in the cranks. Is there a possibility the bike is english threaded? I wish I knew when it was made.

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Old 11-21-05, 02:53 PM   #23
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Those look like a stronglight crankset I once had with a really annoying BCD. The cranks I had were 122 I think. I still have some extra chainrings (larger ones like 48-52) sitting around in case it is indeed that pain in a$$ side and you want some options and have any trouble finding something that will work.

So yeah...if it is that odd 122 BCD size and you want a bigger chain ring, send me a PM...I have a couple I'm willing to part with for free.
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Old 11-21-05, 03:02 PM   #24
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Were they anoying to work on, or to ride? Or both. Once everything was attached and tightened, did you have any problems with them?
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Old 11-21-05, 03:14 PM   #25
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Also, even if the bottom bracket is french, the spindle is square tapered.. Would my square tapered crank arms that were on my fuji fit on the spindle if I ever needed to run them? Does the square tapered part have different sizes?
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