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Singlespeed & Fixed Gear "I still feel that variable gears are only for people over forty-five. Isn't it better to triumph by the strength of your muscles than by the artifice of a derailer? We are getting soft...As for me, give me a fixed gear!"-- Henri Desgrange (31 January 1865 - 16 August 1940)

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Old 11-22-05, 12:35 PM   #1
queerpunk
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headset issues

headset issues:

i have a ritchey logic [http://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?c...eid=&pagename= ] headset on my bike--i bought it thinking, "well, i don't have much money, and a headset is just a headset. how important can it be?"

well that bit me in the arse. the damn thing won't stay in adjustment. i'll take the play out of the thing, ride a bit, and after oh, say, between five and twenty miles, there's play again. sometimes very bad, and it's ridiculous, and frustrating. to be fair to it, i ride on some pretty rough roads, but still.

i might not get the opportunity to replace it too soon. can chronic play cause any unforeseen damage to, i don't know, my headtube or steerer?

what do folks recommend for a good/affordable upgrade? say, inside the $40 range. 1 1/8", threadless...
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Old 11-22-05, 12:49 PM   #2
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Cane Creeks are nice, and can be found for cheap. FSA headsets are also quite nice and often on eBay in that price range.
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Old 11-22-05, 01:06 PM   #3
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while we are at it. what about threaded 1" in the 50.00 or less range. hmmm.
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Old 11-22-05, 01:13 PM   #4
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Perhaps I'm clueless, but I'm not sure how your headset can be coming loose provided everything is properly tightened up. Threadless headsets just don't come loose the way theraded do (and even then it's again a question of not using enough torque).

While nothing special, Ritchey doesn't make garbage.
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Old 11-22-05, 01:26 PM   #5
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maybe Ritchey doesn't make garbage, BT, but this was a pretty bottom of the barrel headset...

would it be a question of torque on the top cap prior to tightening the bolts holding the stem to the steerer, or, as i would assume from your comment, just torquing the **** out of the bolts on the stem?
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Old 11-22-05, 01:30 PM   #6
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i've heard this before about ritchey logic headsets. weird.
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Old 11-22-05, 01:34 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by queerpunk
would it be a question of torque on the top cap prior to tightening the bolts holding the stem to the steerer, or, as i would assume from your comment, just torquing the **** out of the bolts on the stem?
A little from column a, a little from column b. The cap needs to be snug enough that the bearings won't develop play under load. There's a torque value that will give you the proper preload. Once you've done that, then just tighten the living bejesus out of the stem bolts. Strip, then back off 1/4 turn.

Since you're not noticing the stem move around, I wonder if you've got enough preload on the cap bolt.

Edit: but if Ritchey has a reputation for this, maybe I'm just talking out of my ass. It's been known to happen.
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Old 11-22-05, 01:38 PM   #8
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There's nothing wrong with that headset. I've used $5 generic crap headsets which performed fine. Are you preloading it properly before cinching the stem bolts..?
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Old 11-22-05, 01:40 PM   #9
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I use the Cane Creek C2 headset. No complaints so far. I picked it up at eBay for ~20 +s/h.
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Old 11-22-05, 01:49 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bostontrevor
maybe I'm just talking out of my ass. It's been known to happen.

...i thought your breath smelled funny...
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Old 11-22-05, 01:50 PM   #11
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threadless--cane creek
threaded 1"--shimano ultegra
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Old 11-22-05, 01:53 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Fixer
There's nothing wrong with that headset.
not sure i agree with you on this one.

Quote:
Are you preloading it properly before cinching the stem bolts..?
yes? i think so. BT said there was a torque value, and i am sans torque wrench, so i was just tightening it until it was Very Snug.
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Old 11-22-05, 02:00 PM   #13
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of these two which would you choose for low end headset...
http://cgi.ebay.com/Ritchey-Logic-Th...QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-in-box-Tange...QQcmdZViewItem
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Old 11-22-05, 02:05 PM   #14
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Both cups and fork crown race pressed and seated as far as they go?
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Old 11-22-05, 02:15 PM   #15
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not sure, but they were installed by a mechanic i worked with whose work i trust.
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Old 11-22-05, 02:57 PM   #16
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head tube ovalized?
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Old 11-22-05, 03:02 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamtastic
whichever one had the right stack height.

or

http://cgi.ebay.com/Dura-Ace-1-seale...QQcmdZViewItem
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Old 11-22-05, 03:11 PM   #18
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I just installed one of these on my steamroller (was going cheap as well), and was having a similar problem without evan getting the bike on the road. I would install the little bugger and there would be play back and forth between the stem and frame. The reason that was happening was that bearings in the retainers are two sizes. I believe the larger bearings need to go on the bottom and the smaller on the top. If you have them switched everything can't fit together and tighten correctly. Maybe go to the Ritchey website to confirm I have the what/where correct, but once I got this straightened out I have had zero problems.
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Old 11-22-05, 03:27 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Fixer
Both cups and fork crown race pressed and seated as far as they go?
That would be my question too. when you installed the cups and race did you use a proper press, or did you just whack them in with a mallet? To me it sounds like the cups or race are seating further as you ride thus introducing play. make sure they are fully seated before you adjust your headset otherwise it will keep loosening until they are.
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Old 11-22-05, 03:42 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamtastic
while we are at it. what about threaded 1" in the 50.00 or less range. hmmm.

Campy Chorus headset are about $50 on eBay. I use one on my fixie, and I like it a lot.
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Old 11-22-05, 05:30 PM   #21
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Yes, the large bearings go at the bottom as that's where most of the load is carried.
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