Using 24" front wheels for street?
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Using 24" front wheels for street?
I just bought a time-trial bike and the guy is giving me the 24" front wheel that was used with it. I'm going to buy a 700c IRO back wheel, but would you recommend buying a new front wheel as well? I have no idea what riding a bike with a 24" front wheel would be like.
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if it's a tt frame it prolly won't fit any other size wheel in the front (and 24" has been supplanted by 650cm these days, 24" rims can be hard to find)
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Aye indeed, vomitron had this particular issue last year. Long story short, its easier to get a 659c fork and new front wheel.
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what issues does it cause? really difficult steering? and is the fork the only issue in why a larger sized wheel wouldn't fit here? if so, why not replace the fork with something that'd take a 700 wheel?
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Originally Posted by morbot
what issues does it cause? really difficult steering? and is the fork the only issue in why a larger sized wheel wouldn't fit here? if so, why not replace the fork with something that'd take a 700 wheel?
The reason you wouldn't go with a 700c front wheel is that doing so would defeat the purpose of having a TT bike, and would probally alter the geometry in some funky way.
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hrmph, well im afraid to admit i bought the TT bike because i just liked the way it looked, without realizing the complications the 24" wheel would cause. i guess ill start checking out 650 forks
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24" parts arnt all that hard to find just a little more work my tt build uses a velocity aerohead 24" rim. Panracer still makes 24" tires and terry makes 24" tubes. All of these should be moderately easy to find online.
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speaking of which Everest, mine is a 56cm Nishiki Linear. i saw your thread on that, and i was hoping to see it built up, but then of course you ran into your share of problems. ill be sure to post photos when i get this done though.
and as for the 24" wheel, yeah i have it, but im just worried its going to be *too* small, and too weird, causing issues with comfort and utility. from what i understand, 650 will make it much less of a freak bike. right now, ill try out the 24, and see from there.
and as for the 24" wheel, yeah i have it, but im just worried its going to be *too* small, and too weird, causing issues with comfort and utility. from what i understand, 650 will make it much less of a freak bike. right now, ill try out the 24, and see from there.
Last edited by morbot; 11-27-05 at 01:06 AM.
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Originally Posted by morbot
speaking of which Everest, mine is a 56cm Nishiki Linear. i saw your thread on that, and i was hoping to see it built up, but then of course you ran into your share of problems. ill be sure to post photos when i get this done though.
and as for the 24" wheel, yeah i have it, but im just worried its going to be *too* small, and too weird, causing issues with comfort and utility. from what i understand, 650 will make it much less of a freak bike. right now, ill try out the 24, and see from there.
and as for the 24" wheel, yeah i have it, but im just worried its going to be *too* small, and too weird, causing issues with comfort and utility. from what i understand, 650 will make it much less of a freak bike. right now, ill try out the 24, and see from there.
Depends on the kind of riding you do.
I ride the same frame with a 24" in traffic, and I love how it cuts. Seems more maneuverable to me. If you're used to a 700 up front, you'll learn to adjust quick. It's not that hard.
Besides - I tried a 700 wheel up front on the Nishiki, and it queered the geometry but good.
Don't do it. The 24" is fun.
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That's what would happen if you change 650c to 700c, I guess you can infer what would be your case.
I have noticed that these short front forks had pretty high crowns, so going for a low crown, low stack height front fork can reduce these differences but might cause problems fitting larger wheel under the down tube.
All in all there is about 5 degrees change to the seat tube angle and head tube angle - the latter will affect the steering very much - you would need a fork with suitable rake to compensate.
The good think is that your bottom bracket will go higher.
I have noticed that these short front forks had pretty high crowns, so going for a low crown, low stack height front fork can reduce these differences but might cause problems fitting larger wheel under the down tube.
All in all there is about 5 degrees change to the seat tube angle and head tube angle - the latter will affect the steering very much - you would need a fork with suitable rake to compensate.
The good think is that your bottom bracket will go higher.
Last edited by vobopl; 11-27-05 at 04:38 AM.
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Notice I didn't say it was impossible to find parts for a 24" wheel, just a bit more complicated. Where you may be able to find tubes and tires online, you're going to be hard pressed to find stuff at local bike shops if you're in a pinch, and that can be problematic.
I like that if I get a flat I can get a tube just about anywhere including the local drug store. With a 24" you just have to think way in advance and can potentially have more down time.
I'm not saying its a bad idea, just giving you some things to think about.
I like that if I get a flat I can get a tube just about anywhere including the local drug store. With a 24" you just have to think way in advance and can potentially have more down time.
I'm not saying its a bad idea, just giving you some things to think about.
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Terry Precision Cycles stocks lots of 24" tires and tubes.
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Find a shop that deals with recumbents, they will have good 24" stuff.
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Originally Posted by JoshFrank
Find a shop that deals with recumbents, they will have good 24" stuff.
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ch0mb0, what do you mean it "queered the geometry but good." it made it weird but still good?
also, what sort of set-up are you using? have any pics? do you have problems with pedal strike?
also, what sort of set-up are you using? have any pics? do you have problems with pedal strike?